Hi guys,

I have a DT 175 99 model. It runs well, I have cleadned the exhaust, and air filter. Sometimes it idles high then give the throttle a flick and it drops in revs then will stall. I have squirted some fuel around where the carbi mounts to the cylinder and no change as I thought it may be sucking air. And while riding if you go through a dip at speed it will bog down as though it is flooding itself. I'm leaning towards a carbi kit and float adjustment (not a mechanic but more than capable) or just try and source a new carbi.

any advice or thoughts?

Cheers

Mungsta

Carb first, as you stated. Get it set to standard settings. Fresh fuel. Does it rev high at standstill and then slowly drop revs until it dies unless you blip the throttle? If so then the left hand crank seal could be shot. The technique for testing this is the same as you used for testing any air leaks. Take off the left hand crankcase cover and, with the ending running, spray a little wd40 type fluid behind the spinning rotor. A change in engine speed will mean that the seal is shot.

Thanks DirtyDT, I will check asap. Just wondering is it a big job to do cranks seals?

Right one is normally an engine split. The left hand ones can often be pulled out with the engine in the frame. I can't really see the bike very well on my iphone ( I am at work) but you should be able to do this in situ. I will know more when I. Get home.

It you go to the projects section of the forum and look for my TS250 thread, there are some pictures of how the Suzuki one looks. Hopefully yours will be similar.

As I said, I can't see too much at work but most strokers of this period are very similar.

You can do it but it really isnt a lot more work to do a full build.

There is an o ring under the primary gear spacer that can break.

Other than a flywheel puller you need no special tools and if the piston and bore are good you could cange every bearing seal and gasket save for the crank for a little over 100 quid.

As a rule if the crank seals leaking its as likely to be movement on the crank bearing as wear on the seal.

On a bike as young as yours unless its been abused and thats difficult with dts I would be looking at the float height and or the valve before yanking the engine to bits.

Oh. dont bother with a new carb. unless you get one direct from yam its almost certain to be a cheap copy or more knackered than yours. Its easy enough to swap the parts that wear.

Okay I'll start with the Carbi. I'll have to wait for the weekend as my young bloke has his bike up at his Grandparents place for a few days while on school holidays.

Thanks for the help. I need to find a good place for parts as I need some side plastics as well. The forks are shagged too.

It's 11 pm here I better hit the hay.