blackhat250 Posted January 23, 2015 Posted January 23, 2015 Very nice Ike", where in perth ? am on East coast, ride thru Perthshire all summer to get to west coast,,,lovely area
IKE Posted January 23, 2015 Author Posted January 23, 2015 Hi Blackhat, I live in Crieff but spend most of my time over in Dunblane at the moment working on my Daughter's cottage. I see lots of bikes passing through going West and East during the summer. Crieff locals are up in arms about new parking restrictions and Parking Meters as it means traffic doesn't or can't stop and park - not the best way to encourage visitors to stay and spend. The guys who did the powder coating are called "Perth Powder Coaters" and they are in Lochty, which is the first village you come to after leaving perth on the road west. I am originally from Peterhead (way up the East coast), and have been in Crieff for 20 years. All the best, and safe riding.
blackhat250 Posted January 23, 2015 Posted January 23, 2015 Peter Reid fae Peterheid is Deed,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Volvo for sale,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
IKE Posted January 25, 2015 Author Posted January 25, 2015 Sorry Tommy, just keeping some N. E. Scottish Dialect (the "Doric") alive.
jimmy Posted January 25, 2015 Posted January 25, 2015 Tommys' giving it 'Eh, Eh, Eh' 'calm down calm down' 1
IKE Posted January 31, 2015 Author Posted January 31, 2015 OK, back to topic. I am trying to decide what I'm going to do with my engine mounting bolts. I have a few options but any advice or suggestions would be welcome: 1) Bead blast the bolts, washers and nuts (I have a small blasting cabinet) - assuming they come up clean, do I need to spray them with undercoat/primer before spraying/painting with (what type?) engine paint? 2) Chuck them all away and buy a new set - originals from yamaha, stainless steel items from local supplier, or aftermarket items? 3) Get the originals cleaned and plated? My main concern is that if I paint them or get them plated, how will they react to my torque wrench? I don't want them to end up scruffy and chipped, so what do you guys and gals suggest? Thanks
slice Posted January 31, 2015 Posted January 31, 2015 Stainless then if you want to keep them looking neat and tidy, you can't do up a nut and bolt that have been painted without at least some of the paint coming off.
IKE Posted February 1, 2015 Author Posted February 1, 2015 Thanks Slice, yes that's what I thought. I was looking at another forum and there was a fairly long debate about getting them plated but that threw up all sorts of complications around the final strength of the bolts after being heated during the plating process. I have already been using new SS screws when I rebuilt my carbs and they do look good. OK, I'll go for stainless - thanks, although I am nowhere near that in my rebuild progress.
Barcus Posted February 7, 2015 Posted February 7, 2015 Hi. I also have the same model. So tempted to take the engine out and clean up. mechanically it is sound. I have a real problem to find a collector box replacement... any ideas?
Barcus Posted February 8, 2015 Posted February 8, 2015 Hi. I am reached a hiatus in progress with my XJ900f restoration.... I need a collector box to fit the 900 pre diversion. Drawing a blank at the moment. Can you advise me: do the boxes from the 750. 550 fit the 900 as well? Thanks for your wisdom.
IKE Posted February 10, 2015 Author Posted February 10, 2015 Sorry Barcus, can't help you with a collector box but I might be looking too in a few months as my one is rather tatty looking. If you are going to take the engine out and do a rebuild, like me, you have to enjoy the challenge and not do it in a rush to get the bike on the road. Go for it though, and rest happy in the knowledge that you are probably saving it from the breakers yard. 1
Barcus Posted February 11, 2015 Posted February 11, 2015 Hi.. Any advice on where I can get a replacement collector box for my XJ900f 58L 1986 model? I have drawn blanks anywhere in the UK so far and it's driving me nuts. Not sure whether there are any other models' collector boxes which will fit... can anyone please advise / help me? Thanks.
Barcus Posted February 11, 2015 Posted February 11, 2015 Sorry Barcus, can't help you with a collector box but I might be looking too in a few months as my one is rather tatty looking. If you are going to take the engine out and do a rebuild, like me, you have to enjoy the challenge and not do it in a rush to get the bike on the road. Go for it though, and rest happy in the knowledge that you are probably saving it from the breakers yard. Thanks anyway. I have cobbled together an old 4 into 1 for now, but am loathed to sell on the silencers and downpipes just in case something turns up... Do you know whether the XJ550 750 boxes are the same as the OEM xj900f box (long shot, but who knows...?) Thanks for replying.
Barcus Posted February 11, 2015 Posted February 11, 2015 The, almost, stripped frame. I started to wire-brush some of the paint to make sure there is no corrosion underneath. So far, so good. Nice pics. Thanks for sharing.... My rear wheel back on... bloody stiff to turn.... what you reckon? Bearings? The oil defo needs changing... been stood 2 years.
IKE Posted February 17, 2015 Author Posted February 17, 2015 Stiff back wheel? How does it turn with the driveshaft disconnected? If it's OK without the shaft, and it's tight with the shaft connected then it might be still in gear or perhaps you could have some transmission problems. Don't over tighten (torque to the correct settings) the rear axle, check that the spacers are in the right way round and make sure everything is aligned. I assume your rear brake isn't binding? It could be the bearings but they usually fail when the wheel is turning, not when it's been standing for a couple of years (unless it has been allowed to dry out and rust). Let us know how you get on.
IKE Posted March 11, 2015 Author Posted March 11, 2015 Some more (slow) progress to report. The photos have captions... The centre stand spring and bolts were rusted and the locknuts were shot so I gave the bolts and the spring a quick bead blast in my cabinet and replaced the locknuts with nice new Stainless Nylock nuts. After greasing the bolt shafts and fitting the centre stand (I had the frame upside down to make this easier) I painted them with Hamerite satin black, and I am happy with the results, although I might give them a second coat bearing in mind where they are and likely to pick up road grime. I also fitted the steering head bearing races, after the usual couple of days in the freezer. The next job is the top and bottom yokes and I'll probably blast these too but the ignition switch has been riveted into the yoke (although the manual suggests that this is screwed into the yoke, not riveted?). I am considering drilling out the rivets and drilling/tapping for new studs - although I am not convinced. Any ideas or experience with these folks?
Recommended Posts