jrhendryx Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 So, I posted this on the YZF600R forum that I frequent and havent gotten any replies. Was hoping I could get some input from a design standpoint as to whether I'm on the right track here or not. I've attached the picture of the design below, as well as a shot of the bike so that you an get an idea of what I'm talking about. I'm sure this has been done before on here, but here's what several hours of daydreaming, a few beers, and MS Paint brought me to... I'm picturing using round bar for the majority of this, and using the heat and hammer method to flatten it in the places it has to have a bolt go through (maybe just welding tabs on?). My thought process was that round bar would be sturdier and flex less than flat iron. The only pieces that would be flat iron would be the cross brace that the bags would actually mount to, and perhaps a couple of crossbraces running lengthwise between the front and rear top bars to provide a flat surface for tying down items or mounting a tail bag/case/trunk... if that makes sense. Looking at the top drawing, the front space is where it would tie into the passenger peg bolts, and the space in the middle is where it would hook onto the tie-down points. This is what I drew up.... I'd love to hear some ideas or pointers. Feel free to poke holes in my design too, tell me if my design sucks and how I could improve it. My main concern is that the only actual bolt points are on the back bolt of the passenger peg. The tie down hook would just slip in and be held in place with the tension put on it by pulling it slightly down to bolt the front (back edge hooks under the loop, front edge sits on top of the loop). I'm worried about that possibly putting too much stress on that one bolt. The whole point of this is to be able to remove the entire thing quickly and have it look bone stock. I want to avoid cutting plastics if possible. Oh, and the bag-mounting cross-brace is 6" above the rear bolt hole of the passenger peg rear mount, because that was the distance between the tie-down loop and the top of the exhaust. I figured that was a good starting point to ensure clearance of the pipe. All numbers are in inches. So, what do you think? This is a first look/attempt, and I am aware that my drafting skills leave something to be desired. Here you can see the tie-down point just above the rear signal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted April 7, 2013 Moderator Share Posted April 7, 2013 My question would be Why? If you are going to do it, I would go flat as it doesn't warrant the extra strength a tube would give you and be easier to mount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrhendryx Posted April 7, 2013 Author Share Posted April 7, 2013 The reason why is because I haven't been able to find any mounting systems designed for my bike, and the adjustable ones either don't fit, or require that I cut the tail section fairings apart. I could use soft bags, and probably will in the meantime, but what I really want are lockable hard bags. Waterproof, and someone can't just cut them open or cut them off. Switching to flat bar makes sense, part of the reason I was thinking of using solid round bar was for aesthetics - I just think it would look better, and I could bend it in any direction, which would mean less cutting and welding. Plus, the spot where it hooks into the round tie-down point won't be bolted, just held in place with the tension on the hook. If it were flat, it would slop sideways in the loop. I suppose I could just make the hook part out of round stock, or put some kind of rubber bushing on the hook to keep it from rattling around. I'm still trying to if figure out if this will even work at this stage. Thanks for the reply! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted April 7, 2013 Moderator Share Posted April 7, 2013 My mistake, I didn't read the work "hard" in your title. Your idea makes perfect sense. If you tack weld on the bike to guarantee the fit, make sure that you isolate the main parts of the electrics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bippo Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 Saw some video on you tube once where someone with a Ninja (I think) had managed to install a Givi hard case into a spare rear seat, so when he wanted lockable storage he just swapped seats and was ready to go. Not sure if something like that is possible on your bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrhendryx Posted April 7, 2013 Author Share Posted April 7, 2013 That might actually work. It has a plastic seat pan, so maybe if I stripped the foam off, bolted an assembly to the top, and re-covered it. Better yet, since it's a long single-piece seat, I could strip just the back half. Odds are I won't be carrying a passenger if I've got bags in anyway. I never thought of doing it that way... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bippo Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 I've just found the video - Hope it helps you out a little. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrhendryx Posted April 7, 2013 Author Share Posted April 7, 2013 Good find! Gives me some more to think about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bippo Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 No worries matey. Let us know what solution you eventually come up with! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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