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Problems with 1988 Austin Mini


Noise
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will do bud but i probably wont be back at benson until the end of the week, try looking at some examples on ebay, im sure that the wipers go through the small black fusebox behind the carb elbow as mine used to have a habit of blowing them

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Yer i just been speaking to my mate at work and he said to recheck the fuses as even tho they look good they could be broken in a place you cant see. also the previous owner (the bright spark that he is) as put the fuse box underneath the T joint of the washer jet hose.

More fiddling shall be done

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Right im getting there! end result from Saturday. Battery needs to be replaced as its fooked, Number 3 fuse (3rd one down from top) in the fuse box on the bulkhead isn't getting power, which is the reason why my wipers, heater and washer bottle doesn't work when i use the stalk.

So the next question is, where about's dose dose the fuse box get its power from? or could i steal some power from another source? If you can point to where it gets power this will help my dumb dumb syndrome.

fuseblock1_zps034d6a55.jpg

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Do you know what a Bi-Metal Instrument voltage stabilizer is? and where its located too? Looks like the heater (which doesn't work unless i put a live straight from the battery) goes through this and then to the fuse box. So my guess would be to check this out next.

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Bi metal is 2 different metals, normally in a coil that control something. The metals expand differently at temperature and the coiling/uncoiling of the strip is used for control. Use to be used in carbs to operate the choke by using the water heat as the first auto choke. I think that some old air cooled beetles and Porche's use a similar method for air diversion, via flaps, for when the engine is cold or hot.

In old instruments it can control the temperature gauge (there will be a thin tube with water in it from the engine) or stabilise the fuel gauge (in old cars the fuel gauge goes up and down each time you turn a corner and the idea was to minimise this - didn't work very well.

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Thanks DT thats great. I checked this out last night after taking the dog for a walk and its not the Bi metal. so im stumped? once power gets into that third fuse all systems are working fine. i don't really want to start un-wrapping the tape off of the loom to trace where they are going but the wiring diagrams i have point to all the places i have checked and it still aint getting power. :madflame: should have bought a bike im thinking :eusa_doh::biglaugha:

Here is one of the diagrams i used.

Miniwiringdiagram1970key_zps99dcbbd1.gif

Miniwiringdiagram1970_zps780e7b66.jpg

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Are you sure that the word and pictures match? I didn't know old minis had things like "Seat belt warning diodes".

The first problem is that you have a diagram with 2 fuses and a picture with 4 pictures.

Personally, I would run a live to the stalks fuse if things wound me up to much. however,

All cars are different but I do recall that live feeds to the stalks were often from the hazard switch. I also recall that often the horns worked without the ignition being on. You only need 2 circuits to work without the ignition:

1) Hazards

2) interior lights

The diagram looks like the Mauve is the feed to the stalk however, the mauve in on the second fuse in the picture ??

I would go

1) confirm what works and doesn't as it is

2) check everything works when a feed is put directly into fuse 3

3) identify what side of the fuse board is live, thus identifying what wire is causing the issue (green/white or green/brown

4) ask yourself; should anything work from fuse 3 that doesn't need the ignition

5) confirm is the car has an alternator or dynamo

6) check the rear of the ignition switch for any broken wires

7) check the hazard switch for any issues

8) run a short piece of wire with 2 spade connectors from a different fuse to fuse 3 using the unused spades on the board

9) check if everything works with the short wire in place

10) using the answer from number 3, find out where this wire leads

11) get a better wiring diagram with the correct wiring layout

Not sure if this is helpful. Oh yeh, just to tell you I have never owned a Mini. Yet!!

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Thanks again DT, great help. I have posted this on a Mini forum and they have confirmed that the wiring diagram is too old for my mini.

The green and white wire is the wire that supplies the live into that fuse and come from the ignition switch then pings out through the green brown (or orange) back to the wiper stalk and heater switch.

So.......................looks like armed with your info and their info i should now go and check the connections on the ignition switch to see if any thing is looking a bit tits up.

I would say get one as they are a cracking little car but i haven't driven it yet, but so far i would still get one as they are so easy to work on (bar the electrics)

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All sorted. Every thing on the Mini works now :) it was all down to a dirty connector on the ignition key loom stopping power getting to that fuse. So again nothing a bit of WD40 and a small flat head screw driver can't fix.

Just need to replace the battery now and tax and MOT :D

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