Benedictine Posted May 7, 2013 Author Posted May 7, 2013 A strange thing happened this morning. I came to start it as normal and there was nothing, no sound, power, even no power to the neutral light, so I had assumed the battery was completely dead. I've come back to it just now while I am charging up the new battery, but it is now starting with the old one. There was at one stage no power the first time I turned the ignition on, but when I tried again the neutral light showed and it started as normal. I'm going to put the new battery in anyway, but I'm wondering if it is not that at all, with it suddenly not working and then working fine, maybe a loose connection or something? Anyway, the battery charges around 11pm tonight so I'm going to fit it there and then and give it a little night ride. I just can't go a day without my bike any more. I'm wanting it for Wednesday.
nayruf Posted May 7, 2013 Posted May 7, 2013 , with it suddenly not working and then working fine, maybe a loose connection or something? I reckon you are probably correct, I have had similar and it was a poor battery earth connection,
Benedictine Posted May 7, 2013 Author Posted May 7, 2013 Cheers. Maybe changing the battery will sort that then anyway. It's only stuck in the cupboard so I might as well try it.
Benedictine Posted May 7, 2013 Author Posted May 7, 2013 Jesus, my new battery on charge in the kitchen has just exploded!! Acid everywhere. Does any thing go right for me? I've just mopped it up and put it back on charge. Going to watch it more closely now.
AndrewElvisFan Posted May 7, 2013 Posted May 7, 2013 Did you remove the tube before charging? Also I could be wrong but I think you need to remove the plugs to let it breath. Going back to the issue with no power, check the engine stop switch and wiring to that. Mine was a little corroded and not making connection all the time.
Benedictine Posted May 7, 2013 Author Posted May 7, 2013 No I left the yellow things in place. The neighbour has just told me you don't do that, so that explains the explosion. It was a poor connection on the battery that caused it. One of the nuts around the connectors was loose. Also the water levels are low again. I came to fit the new battery but the + and - terminals are the other way around on the battery which means I can't fit it on the bike as the wires won't reach around. I'll have to stick with the old battery and just top it up with water when I get some tomorrow. At least it is starting now.
Benedictine Posted June 18, 2013 Author Posted June 18, 2013 Hi, I wondered if anybody could help me with another question. I think I have a slow puncture in the front tire as I'm losing about 5 psi each week. I have bought another inner tube. Will it be possible to fit this myself like on a standard push bike, or will I have to take it to the garage? Seems a daft question but I've heard that bike tires can be really stiff and garages use a special clamp device. Thanks.
slice Posted June 18, 2013 Posted June 18, 2013 Usually a garage job, not that you can't do it but it can be a right mare, if you have the patience then try it but be prepared to buy a new inner tube.
Benedictine Posted June 18, 2013 Author Posted June 18, 2013 OK thanks, I have already bought the new inner tube I just need it fitting. I've got the MOT in a couple of weeks so I probably need it sorting for then. I'll try and get it into a garage. Something I've learned with bikes is that you are always fiddling around with the things. Cheers.
Benedictine Posted June 22, 2013 Author Posted June 22, 2013 Hi, I took the bike to the garage and had the inner tube fitted so that should be OK now only thing is it has failed the MOT!! It failed on rear wheel tread and failing dipped headlight, with advisories on front and rear tyre has cracks to cords and brake fluid low. I'm booked in for next week to get the headlight and new rear tyre. I could do with a bit of advice from more experienced riders, would you get a new front tyre as well, what's the 'cords'? How bad are cracks to cords? I only noticed this when I left the shop and now the garage is closed. Also with the cylinder fluid am I right in thinking it just needs topping up, I don't have to drain the old fluid out do I? Thanks a lot. I'm also thinking of doing an oil change as I've done 1000 miles on it now. I've bought the oil and ordered a new filter. This matches with the advise from the manual and from what I have read.
wild foamy Posted June 22, 2013 Posted June 22, 2013 brake fluid should just be a straight top-up, no need to drain it. Tyres have canvas (or sometimes steel wire) cords underneath the rubber to help the tyre maintain its shape and for reinforcement, cracks to cords is where the rubber has crack (or split/cut) down to these cords, if the cords are exposed they may have also been damaged and the tyre may fail prematurely.
Benedictine Posted June 22, 2013 Author Posted June 22, 2013 OK thanks, so would you get a complete set of new tyres then?
jimmy Posted June 22, 2013 Posted June 22, 2013 Agree with Foamy, new tyres but I would say you should change the fluid as well. Easy enough to do with an easy bleed kit (basically a length of tube blanked at one end and a small slit in it). Fit the open end over the bleed nipple, place the slitted end in a jar with some fluid in it. Open the reservoir, open the bleed nipple, and pump away to your hearts content. Make sure the reservoir does not empty or you'll get air bubbles
Benedictine Posted June 22, 2013 Author Posted June 22, 2013 OK thanks a lot lads, 2/2 for new tyres, I will contact them Monday and order two new tyres. I might as well sort it all now as opposed to getting into trouble further down the line. It looks like I'm going to keep the bike for a bit anyway as the 125 suits me at the moment so I might as well get everything right, i just didn't know if the 'cords' were such a big deal or not. Bit harsh with labour on top of that and VAT and MOT re-test but once it is sorted it's sorted (though I'm sure the missus won't say that..) At least there's nothing wrong with the engine or drive chain or anything major.
wild foamy Posted June 23, 2013 Posted June 23, 2013 Keep servicing that little engine and it will go on forever, the top ends have a habit of going pop due to lack of maintanence
Benedictine Posted June 27, 2013 Author Posted June 27, 2013 Thanks. I am booked in this Sat to get two new tyres and then it will pass the MOT, £122, but this should be good for a while.
wild foamy Posted June 27, 2013 Posted June 27, 2013 £122 for a pair of tyres?!, when i put new ones on Project Mong they were only about £70 the pair!
Benedictine Posted June 27, 2013 Author Posted June 27, 2013 Yes it's costing me £122 for two tyres and fitting and a partial MOT retest. £77 for just the back tyre (essential to pass MOT) £122 for them both and £49 for the initial MOT, inner tube fitting and 2 litres of oil. Everything costings these days, bloody gas bill as almost doubled in the last couple of years and £70 a month less working tax, rip off Britain!
AndrewElvisFan Posted June 28, 2013 Posted June 28, 2013 Keep servicing that little engine and it will go on forever, the top ends have a habit of going pop due to lack of maintanence That's just got me worried! Other than oil, air filter, spark plug, chain tension is there anything I'm missing to prevent a top end falling apart??
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