jimmy Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 Yes, the lamp should just pull out. The engine should have a sight glass on it so no dipstick required Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benedictine Posted March 4, 2013 Author Share Posted March 4, 2013 I'm trying to give you some cool before (dirty and rusty) and after (clean and sparkling) shots but having trouble posting large images... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted March 4, 2013 Moderator Share Posted March 4, 2013 see FAQ's in new members forum for posting pic's and 700 / 800 pix wide is plenty big enough Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benedictine Posted March 5, 2013 Author Share Posted March 5, 2013 OK ta, I was using Imageshack and it's rubbish. A couple of before shots: And after cleaning, de-rusting, a new headlight surround and a light re-spray here and there: Yea!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted March 5, 2013 Moderator Share Posted March 5, 2013 Yeahh indeed Ben, she's looking nice now fella Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benedictine Posted March 5, 2013 Author Share Posted March 5, 2013 Cheers. Not bad for 20 year old. Only 12.5k on clock as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sacha Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 Very nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benedictine Posted March 5, 2013 Author Share Posted March 5, 2013 Cheers. My first bike, cost less than £400 but it feels like a complete life change. Very excited. Just want to get better on it, but that will come with practice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elmmet Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 looking good these old timers deserve a bit of attention happy riding elmmetxx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 Looking good mate. Hows the rear brake on it, looks like it need new shoes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benedictine Posted March 6, 2013 Author Share Posted March 6, 2013 Looking good mate. Hows the rear brake on it, looks like it need new shoes Cheers. Not sure really. How do you know it needs new shoes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 Just looking at the angle of the brake arm coming down from the pivot. If you put an imaginary line running horizontal through the pivot, the arm should not be less than 90 degrees. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benedictine Posted March 6, 2013 Author Share Posted March 6, 2013 Oh right, I don't know, I wonder if it would be worth it getting a service on the bike? I've had a read in the manual about the shoes but I find the manual pretty confusing. Are these easy to change? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 Yes Unscrew the torque arm, release the brake rod and wheel off. Remove the brake arm and the brake plate will come away. The shoes sit on the plate held by 2 springs. Just note which way the springs sit and replace with the new ones. While the shoes are off, remove the pivot and clean it up and put some copaslip on it. This will help keep it from binding Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benedictine Posted March 6, 2013 Author Share Posted March 6, 2013 OK thanks I'll have a look at it tomorrow. I've found the part here: http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/sr_125_se/92-94/picture/shoes_rear_ebc_standard/ Sounds dumb but do I need to order two of these, like break pads on a bike? Or does the part fit across it? Oh, I've checked the oil line and that's fine. I still can't see how to get into the dash light though, I can't see anyway of getting into the dashbox at all. Or if I just had a service would they have standard shoes that they could fit? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 Ben That part is all you need. It comes in 2 halfs and you will reuse the springs that are already fitted. Take a good look, maybe even some pics on your phone, at the shoes that are fitted so you know what way to fit the new ones. If you feel up to it have a look at the old shoes prior to fitting, it may be that the previous owner had the brake arm off and fitted it further round than it should be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benedictine Posted March 7, 2013 Author Share Posted March 7, 2013 Ben That part is all you need. It comes in 2 halfs and you will reuse the springs that are already fitted. Take a good look, maybe even some pics on your phone, at the shoes that are fitted so you know what way to fit the new ones. If you feel up to it have a look at the old shoes prior to fitting, it may be that the previous owner had the brake arm off and fitted it further round than it should be. Thanks, I'm thinking of booking in a service anyway. The rear brake pedal is too high for me as well, it means that I can't really rest my foot parallel with the bar. I have to twist my foot sideways. Maybe this is part of the reason why the arm is out of position? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benedictine Posted March 9, 2013 Author Share Posted March 9, 2013 Can't get in for a service for a while as they are fully booked. I've looked at the brake shoes and they are within the required limit. When I tightened the nut at the back of the arm on the brake it came within about halfway in the range, so I think I am OK for shoes for a while. I've checked the oil and that looks fine, maybe needs a little more as it is close to the bottom level but it's OK. I need to check the air filter next, that looks easy that's clearly explained in the manual. The only thing that is really bothering me now is that the rear brake pedal is positioned too high for my foot, I have adjusted the nut behind the bar, as I said, and this has increased the sensitivity of the brake but I need the whole arm lowering by a few inch so I can keep my foot straight on the foot pedal. I've looked on You Tube and in the manual and there is supposed to be a nut mid way on the arm to adjust for this. I've found where I think this is but it is not a nut that seems you can adjust, I don't know how to explain it, I'll take a photo. I also still need to replace the fuse on the dash warning - nothing on this in the manual as far as I can see. Do you get to this by taking the headlight surround off and pulling back the rubber seal under the dash controls? I'm trying to get the bike to a friend of my brother's today if possible to sort these last teething issues, other than these issues I'm very happy with it. I am riding around on it on the small journey's I have had to make like work etc, and it is running and starting well. I'm also getting used to the controls and riding quite well and comfortable. Just wish the weather would improve so I can go on a nice long run out in the Peaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted March 9, 2013 Moderator Share Posted March 9, 2013 Ben, the brake arm stop is usually a bolt with locknut, If you lower the brake arm in this way you'll have to slacken off the adjuster again at the end of the operating rod first, and re-adjust as reqd later Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benedictine Posted March 9, 2013 Author Share Posted March 9, 2013 Ben, the brake arm stop is usually a bolt with locknut, If you lower the brake arm in this way you'll have to slacken off the adjuster again at the end of the operating rod first, and re-adjust as reqd later Thanks I get what you mean. The problem I am having though is adjusting the bolt with the locknut and pin. It doesn't seem to be an actual nut but just a bolt with a split pin through it. How am I supposed to adjust this? The online manual/guide just says to 'loosen the locknut-turn the adjusting bolt in direction a or b, tighten the locknut' but it doesn't seem to be a nut just a bolt head, there's no nut behind it. Here is the overall problem: As you can see the brake pedal is too high which means I have to twist my foot on the peg/half rest it on the exhaust. Here's the so called 'nut' with the split pin thing through it, it just looks like a bolt head to me. I've fiddled around with this and can't adjust it at all. Then there is this thing where the wire attaches to it: Again I've fiddled around with this a little but I'm not sure it is going to do anything to alter the position of the brake pedal. I've even tried to cheat and to adjust the footrest above the brake pedal but that nut is not moving anywhere with my spanner and anyway the position wouldn't be ideal. Any suggestions greatly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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