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2 Stroke oil change.


Andy68
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Hi, can anybody tell me if it's ok ( and if it is what is the best way ) to change the 2 stroke oil in my DT. I don't know what oil it is using at the moment but I bought a good quality oil and would feel better using it. Thanks for all the replies to my previous post about the bike stalling, it just past mot at dealers they checked the bike but couldn't find anything wrong with it. Since having it back it seems to idle a bit quicker but no problems when putting it in gear. Thanks.

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Under the motor will be a big bolt. Big enough to be obvious. 17mm i think.

Put a container under it that can hold a gallon or so and remove it. When the oil stops coming out replace the bolt and fill via the filler hole behind the kicker.

It says on the casing how much but add a little less and check the level as you never get it all out.

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Tis 2 stroke oil Jason,,,,

ill let ya answer him again,,,,,,,,,,,,,, even though your busy tearing your 175 apart. What happened her was just bad luck, eh! Least the Big-end is fine and youll be back motering in no time.

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Doh.

Never figured someone changing out 2stroke. Jus use it first eh.

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Yeah there is no reason to "change" the two stroke oil. If you are going to though, just discconnect the pipe that goes from the bottom of the oil tank to the oil pump and drain it all out. Fill it back up with your good stuff and bleed it to clear the pipes of any other stuff left in there.

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Do not on any account change to Castrol R or any other castor based oil though, if you want to do that you need to strip everything including the engine and wash away any traces of mineral oil .

PS if you want the cassy R smell a teaspoon full in the fuel tank will do that and not do any harm though

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I never knew that, whats the risk merv?

Castor, mineral and synthetic. They are the base material of the oil.

Castor wont mix with anything. Mineral and synthetic will mix in most cases.

If they react it forms a gooey mix and sticks and blocks up the system.

Not good.

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Castor, mineral and synthetic. They are the base material of the oil.

Castor wont mix with anything. Mineral and synthetic will mix in most cases.

If they react it forms a gooey mix and sticks and blocks up the system.

Not good.

Now that is some useful information!

Cheers for that

Ken

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Yeah likewise, thanks very much. Had no idea about that at all. I'd heard on the grapevine that you shouldnt mix synthetic and non synthetic but not told why and may well have done so in the past in fact. I guess I've just been lucky. I generally use Castrol "Racing" which is fully synthetic. I see Yamahalube is a lot cheaper but is part synthetic. How does that work? any idea? Sorry to hi jack.

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Haynes manuals really are very useful lol. Just have a look through and follow the steps. Basically i believe it says that onces you have the bike started, turn the oil pump by hand to full open for a while. It will prime the pipes and start serving oil to the engine. Read the manual though and it will tell you properly. It's all good asking for advice and help but read the manuak first lol!

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I just let her fast idle pulling the oil pump to max till there are no bubbles from the bleed screw. A very handy addition on any stroker is replace your oil delivery pipes for clear. So you can see the oil.

The easiest way will be drain the tank with a syphon.(empty 2 stroke bottle with pipe attached). Then fill the tank.

If you need to clear the system any more than that you will need an engine strip to clean ALL the oil from the engine and start with fresh.

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