Dt175 Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 Gday, when i purchased this bike it ran rough, but did run consistently. no upon trying to start i cannot get a spark. the electrics are all working, and the spark plugs have been replaced. I know the condensor can be the cause of this problem but are there any other things that impact it? ignition timing etc? If so a little guidance on how to solve this problem would be greatly appreciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dt175 Posted November 21, 2012 Author Share Posted November 21, 2012 Also, the bike came with a range of "spares" for dt 175's. im curious as to what this is It looks like a condensor in some ways, but i just dont know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhat250 Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 G"day, take of the magnito cover, with ignition on, get someone to kick it over, while you look thru windows of flywheel, the darker the better, if no spark at points, they could be worn[ closed] or the condencer fked, or earthing against back plate, if she was running rough, i would say adjust points, that don"t look like my condencer, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted November 21, 2012 Moderator Share Posted November 21, 2012 Yes it does look like a condensor to me too...they usually have a mounting bracket attached though. I would get a flywheel puller and adjust the points gap and set the timing first Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dt175 Posted November 21, 2012 Author Share Posted November 21, 2012 Thanks guys i removed the flywheel cover and could not see a spark. to check further i went to remove the main nut covering the magneto but its near impossible to unlodge because it just turns the chain with it. Any advice? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted November 21, 2012 Moderator Share Posted November 21, 2012 you'll need a magneto puller anyway even when you get the nut off. You'll need to get a good grip of the magneto to undo the nut and it's a must to re-torque the nut to specification on re-assembly myself, I use a chain type filter wrench to grip the flywheel for these purposes and place some fabric/rubber strips cut from work gloves under the chain to aid grip...it works a treat Flywheel Puller Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dt175 Posted November 22, 2012 Author Share Posted November 22, 2012 Are these available at most bike shops? Just one point i thought i should mention ive done this 12 volt conversion successfully (i think) as in all the lights run well of it. when kicking it over, though theres no spark visible, as it turns the metre backing lamp and headlamp turn on this seems to indicate some power? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dt175 Posted November 22, 2012 Author Share Posted November 22, 2012 Just ordered that flywheel puller Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nayruf Posted November 22, 2012 Share Posted November 22, 2012 Also, the bike came with a range of "spares" for dt 175's. im curious as to what this is It looks like a condensor in some ways, but i just dont know Hi It does look like a condenser and it could be with the bike spares as a stand in condenser, some trials/enduro riders used to ditch the condenser in the magneto and have a condenser remotely wired out side of the magneto in the event of a breakdown/engine drowning they were able them to swap out the condenser with out removing the engine cases, when I was unable to get a correct condenser for my DT, I wired a car type condenser purchased from a general auto store remotely under the tank, this condenser had a slip on metal 'P' type clip and this was also the ground connection, Aj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dt175 Posted December 2, 2012 Author Share Posted December 2, 2012 Gday guys so I recieved the flywheel puller, but it is the flywheel cover's centre nut that is doing my head in. i just cant get it off, i dont have one of the chain pullers nor do i know where to get one, does anyone have any other methods of its removal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted December 2, 2012 Moderator Share Posted December 2, 2012 With assistance try putting the bike in a high gear and getting someone to sit on it and hold on the brakes, not a great method it places the crank under twisting stress...but no tools required. or find chain filter wrench...can it really be that hard? NOTE*** Check Capacity*** http://www.tengtools.com.au/chain-filter-wrench.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dt175 Posted December 3, 2012 Author Share Posted December 3, 2012 hey guys im in! i made it through after all that what a found was a generally pretty grimy scene but most noticebly a badly dented condensor, apart from the condensor though i dont really know what im looking for, any ideas/tests? ill upload photos soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dt175 Posted December 6, 2012 Author Share Posted December 6, 2012 magneto condensor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dt175 Posted December 6, 2012 Author Share Posted December 6, 2012 i checked out the points and there in good nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhat250 Posted December 6, 2012 Share Posted December 6, 2012 Looks pretty clean in there, the points , while down this far renew them, they"l be pitted , or the bakalite bit that runs on cam will be worn, [ thats why they need ajustment ] , In fact , looking at piccy, they points should be touching the cam [ in centre] Unless the cam is on the flywheel, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted December 6, 2012 Moderator Share Posted December 6, 2012 check the capacitor isnt shorting from wire to case using a multimeter, the reading should build up to infinite resistance (20M Ohm range) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dt175 Posted December 6, 2012 Author Share Posted December 6, 2012 i just ordered a new condensor/points repair kit. with the capacitor i suspected it before, because it was slightly wet with a fuel or oil, would this short it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted December 6, 2012 Moderator Share Posted December 6, 2012 if the capacitor is wet with fuel/oil then the left crank seal is suspect Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dt175 Posted December 6, 2012 Author Share Posted December 6, 2012 Its wet because of my own mistake, i accidentley knocked the fuel tap switch and it spurted fuel over everything for a second haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted December 6, 2012 Moderator Share Posted December 6, 2012 Its wet because of my own mistake, i accidentley knocked the fuel tap switch and it spurted fuel over everything for a second haha Dohh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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