Moderator drewpy Posted August 18, 2014 Author Moderator Share Posted August 18, 2014 here's a quandary; checked the valves tonight and a few were tight, mostly on the inlets and 1 on ex. I cannot get the no3 inlet to measure correctly. it measures .09 when it should be .11 to .15, so i do the math and pop in a 270. come to measure and its .16 put the old one back in and its back to .09 do i leave it tight or loose? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommy xs Posted August 18, 2014 Share Posted August 18, 2014 I think I'd go for loose till you work it out at least. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 +1 valve alway tighten up so better to be loose then tight and only being .01 over spec is not a big deal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted August 19, 2014 Author Moderator Share Posted August 19, 2014 aye, your right lads, done the deed and she's running lovely. just trying to paint the blue side panels but the bitchin paint keeps crinkling,i think its a faulty batch as primer sits on nice and flat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommy xs Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 It could still be the primer at fault, is it a different brand than the top coat ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 crinkling paint makes me think back to when I tried to paint somthing that had been painted silver/aluminium before... primer would sit flat but could not get the black I was trying to paint on to stick without going to shite and cracking even after I sanded the whole frame ..I had to dip it in acid to get what ever it is in alui paint off. Tommy is right though different brands don't mix well Are you using the same? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted August 20, 2014 Author Moderator Share Posted August 20, 2014 It could still be the primer at fault, is it a different brand than the top coat ? no same brand! I'll buy a new batch and try that as I'm sick of flatting the paint Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommy xs Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Are you sure your primer was completely dry before the colour went on ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Also is anyone sparying some armorall, wd 40 or simmilar anywhere near that stuff can cause havock with paint, my buddy Jimmy who has been teaching me how to lay paint is a pro and he lost a 5000k paint job on the last coat because the clean up boy detailed a car and the stuff he used carried into the paint booth a good 40 yards away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted August 20, 2014 Author Moderator Share Posted August 20, 2014 well i got some new paint,and so far its looking a lot better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted August 25, 2014 Author Moderator Share Posted August 25, 2014 Managed to get some clear on, but still needs flatting and polishing up. looks a lot better even though I only put it on for Squires. going to strip again and get it properly painted in the Gulf colours when funds allow. think I like the top/mid fairing, but put a belly pan underneath in alloy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 It's in one piece and it runs,you want glam after what happened to little G,,,,it looks ok and you got to beat it now it owe's you for the grief it caused, would have been done by now if it had not. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommy xs Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 Won't matter about the paint from my point of view 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted September 10, 2014 Author Moderator Share Posted September 10, 2014 when I got back from the weekend, the right fork was very wet from the fork oil. so usual thing, I'm just going to totally refurbish the forks and tick another bit off the to do list for later. new bushings top and bottom,new fork seals and dust seals with 20 cwt fork oil (normally 10 cwt) springs are a bit sett, but ain't got the dough for new yet! (easy to put in later) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted September 10, 2014 Share Posted September 10, 2014 Did the misses take the cash from the insurance for the G and go shopping . Going up to 20w seems a bit much to me I would think 15 would be better esp. cause it's getting colder.20 might be a bit stiff in the morning or add a few extra mil's of oil.Or same weight oil with a bit of preload via a shim on top of the spring Brad who does my forks is like a surgeon when it comes to oil amount,he swears 2mm of oil is all it takes to change the feel.as I have said before I just can't duplicate the way he does mine,even if I follow the info sticker he puts on them,but I have a sneaky feeling that he mixes his own oil.But who knows he wont let anyone watch him work his magic.And thats fair he is the guru Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted September 11, 2014 Author Moderator Share Posted September 11, 2014 Did the misses take the cash from the insurance for the G and go shopping . Going up to 20w seems a bit much to me I would think 15 would be better esp. cause it's getting colder.20 might be a bit stiff in the morning or add a few extra mil's of oil.Or same weight oil with a bit of preload via a shim on top of the spring Brad who does my forks is like a surgeon when it comes to oil amount,he swears 2mm of oil is all it takes to change the feel.as I have said before I just can't duplicate the way he does mine,even if I follow the info sticker he puts on them,but I have a sneaky feeling that he mixes his own oil.But who knows he wont let anyone watch him work his magic.And thats fair he is the guru talking to the racers at the weekend, they put in 20 wt oil and 120mm air gap. yep, the missus took my money and went on holiday with the kids. I don't mind as its keeps her sweet and I can carry on with bikes as always. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 Ha happy wife makes for a happy life LOL. Ok but what weight are the guys you talked to ,setting up suspension oil level is relavent to rider weight.I dont think they were trying to steer you in the wrong direction but thier is alot more to getting a OK set up or a HOLY DUCK that feels great. Given that the fz didn't come with adjustable pre load or rebound,, oil level and shimming the springs is about all you can do to adjust for rider weight. A 120lb guy on the same level and oil weight would have different feeling than a 220lb rider. So it's not realy a 1 size fits all thing.If there are no good suspension guys to talk to then trial and error are about all you can do. At least oil is not a expencive or hard thing to change if you don't like it. Good luck hope it works out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted September 11, 2014 Author Moderator Share Posted September 11, 2014 Ha happy wife makes for a happy life LOL. Ok but what weight are the guys you talked to ,setting up suspension oil level is relavent to rider weight.I dont think they were trying to steer you in the wrong direction but thier is alot more to getting a OK set up or a HOLY DUCK that feels great. Given that the fz didn't come with adjustable pre load or rebound,, oil level and shimming the springs is about all you can do to adjust for rider weight. A 120lb guy on the same level and oil weight would have different feeling than a 220lb rider. So it's not realy a 1 size fits all thing.If there are no good suspension guys to talk to then trial and error are about all you can do. At least oil is not a expencive or hard thing to change if you don't like it. Good luck hope it works out your forgetting that the FZ has an adjustable cartridge emulators in there, the boys also said to shim the spring as much as possible but I'm leaving that one for now. 20 wt was ideal for my xs400 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted September 14, 2014 Author Moderator Share Posted September 14, 2014 well I did a mix 5 oz of 10w and 6 0z of 20w, runs a dream and nice and taught front end, which now lets down the rear shock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Lol funny how that works you don't notice how worn something is till you fix related things sometimes,so guess your now on the hunt for a low mileage shock. Was it my suggestion of mixing oils or you just hade enough of both left over from other fork rebuilds that you decided to go that route? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts