Moderator drewpy Posted August 2, 2013 Author Moderator Posted August 2, 2013 thanks fellas, clutch will be fix in the next few days when the parts arrive. Oldtimer, the bike fired up no probs just at tickover , it spluttered when revved higher and worked fine(ish) on choke.
Moderator drewpy Posted August 3, 2013 Author Moderator Posted August 3, 2013 ta Sash, been too ill today to go out, keep getting migraines I'll get a photo up soon, no paint yet though as I want to iron out the issues before it gets the colours
Tommy xs Posted August 3, 2013 Posted August 3, 2013 anther orange theme you could consider http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=321178005218&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:GB:1123
Sacha Posted August 3, 2013 Posted August 3, 2013 ta Sash, been too ill today to go out, keep getting migraines I'll get a photo up soon, no paint yet though as I want to iron out the issues before it gets the colours No worries. Hope you feel better!
Moderator drewpy Posted August 4, 2013 Author Moderator Posted August 4, 2013 anther orange theme you could consider http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=321178005218&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:GB:1123 good job the migraines gone Tommy I really like the Gulf colours so I'm sticking with that
Moderator drewpy Posted August 5, 2013 Author Moderator Posted August 5, 2013 you have to be looked at to be seen, most peeps just glance and turn away
Moderator drewpy Posted August 14, 2013 Author Moderator Posted August 14, 2013 well I've been off this week before I go to Belgium with the scouts. so far, I've stripped most of the carbs and a load of water/fuel/rust powder came out still got to get those pesky float pins and 2 stubborn drain screws put on new carb rubbers, just lined the tank with POR15 from Frost (£38 for the kit) so its all sealed now rewiring the stator as the old wires were oil soaked and were going to fail. put on a new front sprocket as the old one was starting to hook! will take out tensioner and give it a clean, Black epoxy sprayed the alternator cover and sprocket cover. do a bit more tomorrow and then clean the house before the family gets home from Rome
Moderator drewpy Posted August 25, 2013 Author Moderator Posted August 25, 2013 nearly done the valves, ordered a 260 shim off ebay for #4 exhaust valve and I could mix and match the other shims to suit stripped the clutch down today and replaced the dowel pin with a split pin mod and it tightened it right up. put the plates back in and there's too much gap as though a plate is missing I did replace a thick washer between the basket and the inner hub and the spline shaft ran out and it sat on a shaft area which seems odd. need to take it back apart and check orientation. primary gear could be undone by hand too which was a bit scary
Tommy xs Posted August 26, 2013 Posted August 26, 2013 with the upgrade of the pin maybe you'll need upgraded plates Cos some have 7 and some have 8 I think ? don't really know what the f#ck i'm talkin about do I
dt502001 Posted August 26, 2013 Posted August 26, 2013 Na tommy your right about some clutch kits do have 1 extra plate like a barrnet for example,though I don't think this is the problem. How lucky were you only 1 shim to have to buy,did you end up pulling the cams or did you find the tool? EDIT bet your glad you pulled it appart before riding it too far then with that primary nut being that loose it could havd been a short lived motor
Moderator drewpy Posted August 26, 2013 Author Moderator Posted August 26, 2013 Na tommy your right about some clutch kits do have 1 extra plate like a barrnet for example,though I don't think this is the problem. How lucky were you only 1 shim to have to buy,did you end up pulling the cams or did you find the tool? EDIT bet your glad you pulled it appart before riding it too far then with that primary nut being that loose it could havd been a short lived motor turns out it was the starter pinion, still, it would have made a mess of the clutch if that had let go I got the official Yam tool for £12 delivered still stumped why the plates are loose as I have put everything back as it should only replacing the thrust plate, and bearings which should tighten everything up if anything no 5 on this schematic the only caveat i can see is when I put the plate in, it is splined, then it was plain shaft that it sat on and was loose because of it. as though the clutch basket should be further out (which would take the slack up no doubt) I have had to replace the cover as needed to move the bike, but i also need new clutch springs anyway as they are 40.38mm and min thickness is 41.5mm. So its a case of waiting till the new parts arrive before i get back into it again! anyone have a picture of the rear clutch basket? maybe i installed the oil pump drive gear backwards although all indicators say its right
dt502001 Posted August 26, 2013 Posted August 26, 2013 Me thinks you have the pressure plate on wrong rotate it 1 turn,see the thread about wr 400 no pressure
Moderator drewpy Posted August 26, 2013 Author Moderator Posted August 26, 2013 I placed the pressure plate to the dot on the basket, but I'll check again when I go back in there and see what's what!
dt502001 Posted August 26, 2013 Posted August 26, 2013 Got me then I have no ideas left,cant see how the oil pump drive gear could go in wrong ,unless because it's driven by the pin and you failed( oops unsuccessfuly attempted) to fit them together properly,but we all make mistakes sometimes I'm sure you will sort it out when you have time to look closer at it
Moderator drewpy Posted August 28, 2013 Author Moderator Posted August 28, 2013 fitted the shim today and all the valves are now in spec. rebuilt the carbs ( they were pretty clean TBH) and just need to set float heights and fit. then sat sort the blinking clutch out after the new springs arrive just had an epiphany moment, the plates all fit on the inner hub and really has nothing to do with the basket at all apart from the fingers slotting in there.
dt502001 Posted August 28, 2013 Posted August 28, 2013 Ok so the inner has to be shimed out from the basket with the other big washer#5 right? don't suppoes you forgot to put it in and the inner is sitting against the outer would be about the same thickness as a plate. After looking at the oil drive gear if it was in backwards then the shoulder wouldn't fit inthe back of the basket and hold the basket out further but that wouldn't matter as the distance from the back of the outer and the inner to the pressure plate would still be the same,so realy the only way to increace this space is to have the inner in too far. Or possibly it can fit in backwards the oil gear that is. Again got me let us know when you've sorted it out.
Moderator drewpy Posted August 29, 2013 Author Moderator Posted August 29, 2013 I'm sure the oil drive is correct and trawling the internet, they back that up. After all the gear meshes with the oil pump and the basket meshes with the stater pinion too. what doesn't add up is the # 5 slots along the shaft then it's left over a smooth shaft area and becomes loose because of it. I wonder if the inner hub goes on first and then #5 which will take up the slack mentioned. Diagrams have been known to be wrong before!
dt502001 Posted August 30, 2013 Posted August 30, 2013 Definatly not #5 must be between the innre and outer or when the nut is tightened the 2 parts wolud be locked together, so that real only leaves the oil gear .why not try fliping it over and reassemble it just for a try I 'm lost as to what happened between dissassembley and re?
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