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reliable 4 bangers


sparkyroar
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so i was riding my 2003 yam wr250f when it suddenly locked up i caught it on the clutch slowed down released the clutch as it was still running and i was like hmm thats not gd it then started to ride like it was misfiring i saw that it was low on fuel so thought maybe it was low on petrol and petrol station was closer then home so i rode it to petrol station and the second i pulled into petrol station it made a very small psst (like a very low psi dump valve blowing off) i then tryed to kick but kick start wouldn't budge i tryed electric start and it was completly locked and just made a buzz noise so i pushed it come i took off head and cylinder and looked at piston cylinder etc it all looked fine rings fine cylinders not warped piston looks fine i put cylinder back on and i put a socket on (what i believe is flywheel) on side of the engine and it would turn over making the piston move as it should quite easily i have currently taken just about everything from engine and ive looked at the gears around kick start in the case etc and they all seem in fine conditon cams timing chain tappets valves etc all seem in fine condition but the kick start still wont budge and it now wont go into gear (i dont know if that is anything to do with a case bieng off) but i can see the clutch plates moving fine and something that connected to gear shifter move as i try to change gear but nothing happens i can roll the bike in neutral and in i do have abit of mechanical knowledge i have done engine rebuilds before have level 2 mechanics and level 3 engineering but im stumped what to do next:(

sorry for essay hope someone can help cheers:)

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Tranny input shaft bearing seized would have been my firts thought..but if you can turn the motor with the clutch still in place ...not...,have you pulled the kick shaft out ? check to make sure it not jamed up.

Is the starter gear engauged the 1 way clutch may be jamming up the whole works it should not be on the clutch gear it should be off the gear on the basket. Try pulling it off and bench testing it.

Let me/us know how this works out not much makes sence if you can turn it over with a socket you should be able to kick it over.

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  • 1 month later...

im sorry for the late reply ive been so busy and bike has been a little neglected but ive finally completly put the bike back together all i did was take the clutch off and it all freed up i am yet to start it tho because ...... i was abit of a wolly and snapped the bolt holding the oil line into the cylinder i can see the rest of the bolt in the cylinder im just looking for advice would a garage be able to drill this out because the bolt already comes with a hole in it so maybe they can put something in it and then turn the bolt? or weld something onto the bolt and then get it out cheers

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??? did you turn it the wrong way and break it,it should have come out quite easy.

You can pick up a bolt extractor set and back it out ,but it might just turn out by taping a flat screw driver into the hole.Don't hammer the driver in just tap it in enough to get a grip on the bolt. if you hammer it in youwill put to much pressure on the threads making it harder to turn out.

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Torque wrench saves much hassel.... about 50 bucks for a 1/2 decent one 10 for a cheap one. Both work if adjusted properly

Let us know if this worked for you

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  • 3 weeks later...

ok so ive got the bike completly rebuilt it all looks to be how it should be i turned the fuel on and it started dripping out the overflow so i tapped the bottem of the carb and it has now stopped i tried starting the bike on the eletric starter and it quite quickly backfired i then left it a couple mins and tried kicking it was pretty lifeless for a couple kicks then went bang! again what do you guys think this is? could it just be where the overflow was rushng out carb needs longer to rest? could i have timed it incorecctly (im 99% sure the marks are in the correct place and there are 13 chain links between the marks on each cam (wr cam wr timing) exhuast lobes facing front intake facng rear what do you guys think i should do:( i also changed the oil filter and coolant and i dont know how but ive managed to get 2.2 litres of oil in and it still isnt on the dipstick of the frame oil tank please help lol:P

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  • Moderator

Bang says ig to me, either bad plug or ig timing set wrong.

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ok so i changed plug and it starts perfectly now and seems to run fine but ive been checking oil level and its pretty wierd the dipstick is now capped in oil i mean way way way above the full line so i took the drain plug out and only managed to get about 800ml of oil out and the dipstick is still wayyyy above full it literaly dripps out as u take out the dipstick what am i missing:(

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Im a bit confused by this thread by the title?

Also (probably a stupid suggestion) did you have the filler cap off when emptying the oil to get it all out?

It only holds what 1.2L? So theres a fair bit still in there.

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  • Moderator

You do know how to change the oil on one of these.......

Its not simple. Its as big a pain in the arse as my TDR.

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Yea there are 3 drain plugs first you drain the down tube, then the drain by the filter, then the lower case.

If your trying to get the extra oil out just loosen drain on the down tube and slowly fill it back up till it touches to bottom of the dip stick,then start the bike for 30 sec's then slowly add untill half up the dip stick, start again and let it sit for 10 min then top up.

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I would of thought it being an enduro bike it would be a lot more straight forward than that? What a pita..

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  • Moderator

Different again for the ally framed bikes. They have a gauze in the tank return too.

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It was high level on dpstick, probably due to the over fueling issue, that bang earlyier on post was fuel in exhaust, so possible filled sump with fuel too,,, :eusa_think:

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Nah, even money says he's doing it wrong, its not just drop the oil and refill it has to be done a certain way.

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  • 2 weeks later...

hey guys thanks for help the oil level is now fine the oil doesnt show up on the dipstick unless the bike has run for like 30 secs so i gues it needs help from the pump to get to the frame oil tank i changed the spark plug and it started straight up .... but it now has the original problem again lol basicaly i can run it for 2 mins then it seems to sieze and lock up the eletric start and kick start both lock up and you cant bump start it it completly locks up the back wheel (when in gear you can roll the bike when in neutral) i then just take the clutch plates off put them back tiogether correctly and it runs for 2 mins then happens all over again what do you thinks wrong? maybe gearbox? but then it happens even when in nuetral my friend said something about kick start gear bearing or something but he wasnt very confident in what he was saying

cheers for all the help so far its a god damn nightmare:( lol

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Sounds like the input shaft bearings have been the problem all along.

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