Grouch Posted August 15, 2012 Share Posted August 15, 2012 The first time I went to a garage I got ripped off badly, losing money was one thing, but the humiliation was unbearable. Knowing that he knew I knew but couldn't do a thing about it. Anyway I've started to bits myself now but.............. I have bought a brand new speedo for my bike which has all it's own connections and doesn't need to connect to the loom. I would do it myself but lack the experience and confidence when it comes to electrical, also I want a proper job doing. I have booked my bike into a garage which after researching seems ok. How much approximately will it cost to fit it, I know you can't give me an exact answer but I need a rough idea give or take £50 because I can't go through that shit again, getting ripped off. I just want an idea so I know if they are taking the piss. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ttaskmaster Posted August 15, 2012 Share Posted August 15, 2012 Down here in Reading, the most expensive place around (a long-serving local garage that specialises in Harleys) will take about 2 hours to do it and charge you £100. The best place is a friend of mine, who will take about an hour and charge you £30-50. That's yer baseline. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grouch Posted August 15, 2012 Author Share Posted August 15, 2012 I was thinking around £100 labour. It's a shame I'm not near Reading. I want to have a crack myself but I'd bodge it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ttaskmaster Posted August 15, 2012 Share Posted August 15, 2012 Make friends with a local independent mechanic. The ones who work for beer are great!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted August 15, 2012 Moderator Share Posted August 15, 2012 A bit more info on the speedo might get you enough of a forum talk through to give you the confidence to tackle this yourself. If it is a Vapor (Trail Tech) type then it would be quite easy to fit it assuming you have a little more than basic tools. You could ask for a talk through and then reconsider if you think you can do it yourself. My next choice would be to call a mobile auto electrician. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grouch Posted August 15, 2012 Author Share Posted August 15, 2012 T, that would be ideal for me and instead of just sat there watching I could get involved and learn for myself. Dirty, I probably could fit the speedo but it would take me hours and really stress me out. I struggled to fit an alarm with four wires. I do only have basic tools but I probably could get by. I decided to get it done professionally to ensure it gets done properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted August 16, 2012 Share Posted August 16, 2012 If your talking about the magnetic type of pick up speedo the info should have come with it to install, but if you don't feel confortable the job should take no longer than 2 hrs tops. I just put one on my buddys bike and the longest part was programing the speedo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grouch Posted August 16, 2012 Author Share Posted August 16, 2012 When I buy the speedo on Monday I will have a look and see if it's easy enough for me to do it, I'm getting the one with neutral, indicator lightson as well so a bit more complex. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 I didn't have a wireing schematic so I just used my test light to find the right wires. 1 keyed power -will have power when key is turned on and off easy right! Not quite make sure by starting the motor so as not to hook up the oil light 2 netural - only has power when in netural shift bike light goes out 3 turn indicators will flash test light 4 high beam indicator only has power when switch is in Hi position. So as not to have and cut any wires I just go in frome the back side of the plug and push down the tab that holds the pin connector in and the whole thing will slide out. A bit tricky untiill you get the hang of it or someone can show you. If your going to cut make sure you leave enough wire so if later you want to go back to original you have enough wire to reattach the plug. Get yourself some 60/40 rosin core solider .062 dia or smaller and shrink tubing.. don't use them crimp connectors. To hold the 2 wires while heating them up to solider I use 2 aligator clips(clothes pins work to) hot glued to a piece of wood abot 1.5 inches apart it's like having a extra hand.Another trick I have seen is to take a spray can lid and cut 2 slits on oppsit sides in it and put the wire in the slits acts like a drip tray to catch any run off of solider If you have never done any solidering before get some wire and practice on it first heat under solider on top.Good luck Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grouch Posted August 24, 2012 Author Share Posted August 24, 2012 I didn't have a wireing schematic so I just used my test light to find the right wires. 1 keyed power -will have power when key is turned on and off easy right! Not quite make sure by starting the motor so as not to hook up the oil light 2 netural - only has power when in netural shift bike light goes out 3 turn indicators will flash test light 4 high beam indicator only has power when switch is in Hi position. So as not to have and cut any wires I just go in frome the back side of the plug and push down the tab that holds the pin connector in and the whole thing will slide out. A bit tricky untiill you get the hang of it or someone can show you. If your going to cut make sure you leave enough wire so if later you want to go back to original you have enough wire to reattach the plug. Get yourself some 60/40 rosin core solider .062 dia or smaller and shrink tubing.. don't use them crimp connectors. To hold the 2 wires while heating them up to solider I use 2 aligator clips(clothes pins work to) hot glued to a piece of wood abot 1.5 inches apart it's like having a extra hand.Another trick I have seen is to take a spray can lid and cut 2 slits on oppsit sides in it and put the wire in the slits acts like a drip tray to catch any run off of solider If you have never done any solidering before get some wire and practice on it first heat under solider on top.Good luck Phil Cheers Phil, Although I probably could do it myself after hours of stress and ball ache, I'm getting a garage to do it for me. I really can't be bothered with the whole rigmerole. I have now bought the speedo unit which cost £92 but can't fit it until I have bought the 'extra' mounting bracket which cost's £40 but the shop is out of stock. I thought the mechanic could mount it temporarily until the mount was back in stock, but he couldn't because of the wires coming out of the back (I instructed him to cable tie it to the original speedo). So now I have to wait for the part to come. I also need a new front and rear brake disc so I might as well fit the front one before I add the speedo because the speedo magnet part mounts to the front disc. Im going to fit the discs myself. With new discs I will have to fit new pads as well. I'm already on my third full set of pads since March. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted August 25, 2012 Share Posted August 25, 2012 Not good you got to check the run out on the hub and disc......... even the new one afeter installing something is wrong...I run brakes ??? I don't know how many years and I am HARD on them. Stoppies are so much fun ..I keep filping back and forth between SBS and EBC but always sintered bronze medium grade. I can dry them up quick and life is ok by me. but NO way I can burn up a set in a month let alone 3 in a year..... you need to look at your brakes very closely ..........something must be stuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grouch Posted August 25, 2012 Author Share Posted August 25, 2012 Not good you got to check the run out on the hub and disc......... even the new one afeter installing something is wrong...I run brakes ??? I don't know how many years and I am HARD on them. Stoppies are so much fun ..I keep filping back and forth between SBS and EBC but always sintered bronze medium grade. I can dry them up quick and life is ok by me. but NO way I can burn up a set in a month let alone 3 in a year..... you need to look at your brakes very closely ..........something must be stuck Sorry Phil, let me elaborate. I haven't worn three sets of pads through use, I have replaced them because firstly someone sprayed my brakes with WD40. They did this through trying to be helpful and not to try and kill me. The second and third sets were replaced because they were squeaking every time I applied the brakes. This noise was really annoying me and it still continues, so I have come to the conclusion it is the discs which are causing the squeaking. I definitely need new discs because they are badly worn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 Ok try this take a file and champher the edges of the pads 15 degrees 2mm the 90 deg edge causes alot of vibration that turns into SQUEEK also apply brake grease to the shims and anti rattel plates and the piston contact area. also wher the caliper mounting bracket attaches to the swing arm NOTE BRAKE GREASE not just any old grease you have..... . or your running to hard of pads and they are glazing up sand them down with some 180 grit on a flat surface, sand paper taped to glass works well. Might want to try some EBC green pads organic compound, most don't know that pads come in a wide range of compounds some last for ever but realy don't work that well others work fantastic but dont last long. Factory pads are the worst for noise. The ones some dim wit sprayed with wd 40( my friend did that when we were 9yrs old LOL) can be cleaned up with isopropanol alcohol 99% sand down first lightly and then just clean them with the alc. dry and good to go if you still have them. Also you need to look and see if the pads are wearing evenly front to back ..top to bottom you may be running your back wheel out of alingment measure from the swing arm piviot to the rear axel and make sure everything is the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grouch Posted August 31, 2012 Author Share Posted August 31, 2012 Ok try this take a file and champher the edges of the pads 15 degrees 2mm the 90 deg edge causes alot of vibration that turns into SQUEEK also apply brake grease to the shims and anti rattel plates and the piston contact area. also wher the caliper mounting bracket attaches to the swing arm NOTE BRAKE GREASE not just any old grease you have..... . or your running to hard of pads and they are glazing up sand them down with some 180 grit on a flat surface, sand paper taped to glass works well. Might want to try some EBC green pads organic compound, most don't know that pads come in a wide range of compounds some last for ever but realy don't work that well others work fantastic but dont last long. Factory pads are the worst for noise. The ones some dim wit sprayed with wd 40( my friend did that when we were 9yrs old LOL) can be cleaned up with isopropanol alcohol 99% sand down first lightly and then just clean them with the alc. dry and good to go if you still have them. Also you need to look and see if the pads are wearing evenly front to back ..top to bottom you may be running your back wheel out of alingment measure from the swing arm piviot to the rear axel and make sure everything is the same. I'll check the alignment, that sounds like a possibility. But I think It's the disc because it is worn to death, and definitely needs replacing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamahajrb Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 Not sure but I always use copper grease, is that what they call brake grease in Canada? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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