andymck Posted July 1, 2012 Posted July 1, 2012 Hi guys, Just a quick one. I have noticed a clicking coming from the front of the bike which speeds up when I speed up. Now the ticking goes away when i apply a slight pressure to the front brake (not enough to slow the bike down) and therefore, in my knowledgeable opinion (which is just short of absolutely nothing) i'm thinking something to do with the brakes . Any help would be appreciated ps its a Yamaha XVS650 Dragstar ta!
PeterC Posted July 1, 2012 Posted July 1, 2012 Is your speedo working correctly? Could be the cable needs oiling.
andymck Posted July 1, 2012 Author Posted July 1, 2012 Hi Peter, Seems to be. Would that affect the noise re it disappearing when using the brake?
Moderator mervin Posted July 1, 2012 Moderator Posted July 1, 2012 yes brake pads rattling would be my guess, are all the necessary shims fitted, remove pads and lightly smear some copper grease on the back of em and see if that stops it
andymck Posted July 1, 2012 Author Posted July 1, 2012 Many thanks for the advice. Will endeavour to take apart everything tomorrow with the help of the trusty service manual and various screwdrivers!!!!!! and try not to end up with that one niggling nut that always gets left over Also best place to purchase and get fitted a rear tyre somewhere around Manchester
Moderator Airhead Posted July 1, 2012 Moderator Posted July 1, 2012 Try B&C in Farnwoth (Bolton) for a tyre quote
Ttaskmaster Posted July 2, 2012 Posted July 2, 2012 Check you have no stones or other crap stuck anywhere. Check your mudguard has enough space around it. Check everything else is not loose or misaligned.
Moderator Cynic Posted July 2, 2012 Moderator Posted July 2, 2012 I had the same on my TDR on the rear wheel and it was loose spokes due to another failing. You could only hear it on a neutral throttle (basically coasting) add power or brake and it stopped as the wheel loaded up.
Moderator drewpy Posted July 2, 2012 Moderator Posted July 2, 2012 I had the same on my TDR on the rear wheel and it was loose spokes due to another failing. You could only hear it on a neutral throttle (basically coasting) add power or brake and it stopped as the wheel loaded up. Always tap your spokes every few months, a dud sound means it needs tightening
Moderator Cynic Posted July 2, 2012 Moderator Posted July 2, 2012 Always tap your spokes every few months, a dud sound means it needs tightening Mine were loose due to others failing, common on TDR's if you have the wheels rebuilt its worth going up a spoke size.
Ryan09 Posted July 4, 2012 Posted July 4, 2012 Iv got a similar problem on the r6 at the mo, is definitely coming from the front and its been bugging me like mad. Il try the front brake like you said (hopefully will work), i was thinking i had an exhaust leak as apparantly that makes a funny sound too. Be nice to get rid of the sound thats for sure, probably doesnt help having to ride in the wet?
andymck Posted July 7, 2012 Author Posted July 7, 2012 yes brake pads rattling would be my guess, are all the necessary shims fitted, remove pads and lightly smear some copper grease on the back of em and see if that stops it cheers . sorted it. now, noticed a slight bit of oil on the fins at the front. worked out it was coming from the cover just above the exhaust connection. so removed the coveronly to find the top left screw was fine. the bottom right however had no screw just glue. after taking the cover off, noticed the screw hole was screwed. the only way i can think of fixing is to weld a nut into the opening of where the hole should have been and use a slightly smaller bolt. any other ideas. cheers
Moderator Airhead Posted July 8, 2012 Moderator Posted July 8, 2012 cheers . sorted it. now, noticed a slight bit of oil on the fins at the front. worked out it was coming from the cover just above the exhaust connection. so removed the coveronly to find the top left screw was fine. the bottom right however had no screw just glue. after taking the cover off, noticed the screw hole was screwed. the only way i can think of fixing is to weld a nut into the opening of where the hole should have been and use a slightly smaller bolt. any other ideas. cheers not sure what you mean and a pic would maybe help? you cant weld to aluminium though cant you fit a thread insert into the stripped thread?
andymck Posted July 8, 2012 Author Posted July 8, 2012 will try and get a piccy tonight. Basically where the hole should be to accept the bolt (on the engine rather than the cover) the hole is missing the top right quarter so any bolt going into it just has nothing to fully screw to (if that makes any sense?). Looking further in there is no thread at all.
andymck Posted July 8, 2012 Author Posted July 8, 2012 (edited) I'm thinking, would epoxying a well nut into the existing space work, then reseal with silicone sealant and tighten with new nut? Would anybody know of the top of their heads what size nut it is that holds in the tapping cover? Edited July 8, 2012 by andymck
Moderator mervin Posted July 8, 2012 Moderator Posted July 8, 2012 I would think a thread insert would be more reliable than trying to glue anything in
Keiran95 Posted July 11, 2012 Posted July 11, 2012 I haven't read what everyone else has wrote but i had this problem with my yz125 whenever i pushed the bike backwards, it was the break pad clips so this maybe your problem also?
andymck Posted July 11, 2012 Author Posted July 11, 2012 hmm. its currently off the road due to me trying to find someone in manchester with the skills to advise me on the missing bolt/screwthread problem. Ask me about computers and i'll tell you everything you want to know, and build it, but until I get a bit more techy with engines, it aint going anywhere. . Had it 6 months ish and have sent a nice polite email to the place I bought it from (if they services it correctly and checked it over i'm sure they must have noticed it), asking them to have a look to see if they can fix it. Awaiting reply
Campaman Posted July 12, 2012 Posted July 12, 2012 You need to put either a threaded insert or a helicoil into that hole to sort the thread out. A decent mechanic should be able to do this fairly cheaply for you.
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