Jump to content

Threaded screws/bolts


Grouch
This post is 4539 days old and we'd rather you create a new post instead of adding to this one. You can't reply in this post.

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I recently bought a full set of brand new bolts for my bike because a lot are rusty and old. I have noticed a fair few nuts and bolts are just stuck in the thread regardless of how many times I attempt to unscrew them. Please can some one tell me how to remove these threaded screws and bolts? Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you want an ad-free experience? Join today and help support the Yamaha Owners Club.

shit load of WD40, or similar, and an impact screwdriver . . for the bots put yer spanner on and use a metal pole to make a bigger lever and just put all yer weight on it :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't be too brutal when trying to remove them as they may snap. If a bolt is just turning but you have a couple of millimetres of thread showing, put a screwdriver beneath the bolt head to act as a lever whilst gently turning the bolt with a spanner or socket.

Best to give all the nuts and bolts a good soaking with WD40 or penetrating oil and leave for a few days before you attempt to undo. Noting worse than having to cut off or drill out seized nuts & bolts

When replacing a thin smear of grease will help and recommend using a torque wrench on critical bolts so you don't overtighten.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderator

Use some heat and Plusgas. I wouldn't advise WD40. Heat (heatgun) and soak for a while (a week or more). Keep going back and reapplying the heat and plusgas). If they are X head pan screws then an impact driver after the heat and soak or a quality socket set/spanner for any hex heads.

If the heads snap then cut them off until they are flush with the part they are in and get the drill out. Drill a small hole in the CENTER of the sheared bolt and use a quality stud remover. The type that has a left handed thread. Often the heat of drilling helps loosen the remaining stud.

When reassembling use a copper grease where possible.

Good luck as this can be a frustrating and time consuming job.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Youve got to avoid snapping bolts/screws etc, as you cant always get a drill in due to restricted access.

As above, a good quality release oil rather then WD40, careful application of heat, patience, try turning both directions, sometimes the action of tightening breaks the bond, try to avoid extension bars as youre likely to shear the bolt/screw.

If the bolt is just turning round in the hole (stripped thread)you need to pull as well as turn. Stripped nuts/holes will require helicoiling

Always use the correct sized spanner/socket, not an adjustable (nut rounder)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The bolts in question are allen key bolts. They just aren't coming, it's starting to piss me off.

890a24de.jpg

It's the bolts at either side of the petrol tank cap.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are there nuts underneath the fairing? Are the nuts spinning round too? If so, get a socket on them

If the hex socket on the screw is rounded, you can sometimes get away with it by tapping a torx bit into the hex socket. Use the size which cuts its way in when you tap it into the socket.

Failing that, it looks like you should be able to drill off the 2 screw heads to allow the panels to be removed. Mask up your panels first. You dont need a drill the size of the screw head, just a touch bigger than the screw diameter. Then, as previously advised, youll have to drill out the threaded parts carefully.

Copper grease all replacement fasteners

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree that there are most likely nuts on the backside of those bolts. Tried to find a parts breakdown on the XT125X but no luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderator

they are probably those well nuts, those little rubber thingy's

6_x_M6_rubber_Nuts.jpg

yep, looks like they are. I'd drill the head off and pop 'em.

http://www.oemmotorparts.com/oem5.asp?M=Yamaha&T=XT%20R%20%20125&Y=2006&L=YA-XT-R-125-2&O=FRONT%20BODY&F=YA-XT-R-125-2_AS&L2=YA-XT-R-125-2_AS

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd drill the head off and pop 'em

I'm sure this would be fine, but be aware that electric drill armatures spark quite nicely, and if there are any fumes from that tank............. :ambulance:

I'm not quoting "Elf & safety" or trying to frighten you............... just the experience of attending to someone in A&E who did just that a few years ago with extensive burns!!

( if you're going to drill it you might want to consider an old hand operated drill.)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A cordless battery drill doesn't have that problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A cordless battery drill doesn't have that problem.

Um yes it dose lol, Turn off all the lights in your living room and pull the trigger on your cordless drill, your see some nice blue sparks coming out of the little vents above your hand lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderator

use machine oil to stop the sparks and put a wet towel over the tank too

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Um yes it dose lol, Turn off all the lights in your living room and pull the trigger on your cordless drill, your see some nice blue sparks coming out of the little vents above your hand lol

So it does, never noticed it with the portable one before, my mains is very noticeable. Mind you I had to wait until 10:30pm before it was dark enough to see it...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't be arsed going through all that just to replace them. What a rigmerole. I have noticed quite a few have seized or threaded. I don't want to start messing about with it and make it worse.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...