Grouch Posted May 30, 2012 Posted May 30, 2012 Hi Guys, I recently bought a full set of brand new bolts for my bike because a lot are rusty and old. I have noticed a fair few nuts and bolts are just stuck in the thread regardless of how many times I attempt to unscrew them. Please can some one tell me how to remove these threaded screws and bolts? Thanks.
Matthew Duncan Posted May 30, 2012 Posted May 30, 2012 shit load of WD40, or similar, and an impact screwdriver . . for the bots put yer spanner on and use a metal pole to make a bigger lever and just put all yer weight on it
BristolWhite Posted June 4, 2012 Posted June 4, 2012 Don't be too brutal when trying to remove them as they may snap. If a bolt is just turning but you have a couple of millimetres of thread showing, put a screwdriver beneath the bolt head to act as a lever whilst gently turning the bolt with a spanner or socket. Best to give all the nuts and bolts a good soaking with WD40 or penetrating oil and leave for a few days before you attempt to undo. Noting worse than having to cut off or drill out seized nuts & bolts When replacing a thin smear of grease will help and recommend using a torque wrench on critical bolts so you don't overtighten.
Moderator DirtyDT Posted June 4, 2012 Moderator Posted June 4, 2012 Use some heat and Plusgas. I wouldn't advise WD40. Heat (heatgun) and soak for a while (a week or more). Keep going back and reapplying the heat and plusgas). If they are X head pan screws then an impact driver after the heat and soak or a quality socket set/spanner for any hex heads. If the heads snap then cut them off until they are flush with the part they are in and get the drill out. Drill a small hole in the CENTER of the sheared bolt and use a quality stud remover. The type that has a left handed thread. Often the heat of drilling helps loosen the remaining stud. When reassembling use a copper grease where possible. Good luck as this can be a frustrating and time consuming job.
neversaydie Posted June 4, 2012 Posted June 4, 2012 Youve got to avoid snapping bolts/screws etc, as you cant always get a drill in due to restricted access. As above, a good quality release oil rather then WD40, careful application of heat, patience, try turning both directions, sometimes the action of tightening breaks the bond, try to avoid extension bars as youre likely to shear the bolt/screw. If the bolt is just turning round in the hole (stripped thread)you need to pull as well as turn. Stripped nuts/holes will require helicoiling Always use the correct sized spanner/socket, not an adjustable (nut rounder)
Grouch Posted June 4, 2012 Author Posted June 4, 2012 The bolts in question are allen key bolts. They just aren't coming, it's starting to piss me off. It's the bolts at either side of the petrol tank cap.
Moderator Airhead Posted June 4, 2012 Moderator Posted June 4, 2012 what do you mean they arent coming jordan? have you rounded them off internally, or are they turning but not coming out?
neversaydie Posted June 5, 2012 Posted June 5, 2012 Are there nuts underneath the fairing? Are the nuts spinning round too? If so, get a socket on them If the hex socket on the screw is rounded, you can sometimes get away with it by tapping a torx bit into the hex socket. Use the size which cuts its way in when you tap it into the socket. Failing that, it looks like you should be able to drill off the 2 screw heads to allow the panels to be removed. Mask up your panels first. You dont need a drill the size of the screw head, just a touch bigger than the screw diameter. Then, as previously advised, youll have to drill out the threaded parts carefully. Copper grease all replacement fasteners
flyday58 Posted June 5, 2012 Posted June 5, 2012 I agree that there are most likely nuts on the backside of those bolts. Tried to find a parts breakdown on the XT125X but no luck.
Moderator drewpy Posted June 5, 2012 Moderator Posted June 5, 2012 they are probably those well nuts, those little rubber thingy's yep, looks like they are. I'd drill the head off and pop 'em. http://www.oemmotorparts.com/oem5.asp?M=Yamaha&T=XT%20R%20%20125&Y=2006&L=YA-XT-R-125-2&O=FRONT%20BODY&F=YA-XT-R-125-2_AS&L2=YA-XT-R-125-2_AS
NE0 Posted June 5, 2012 Posted June 5, 2012 I'd drill the head off and pop 'em I'm sure this would be fine, but be aware that electric drill armatures spark quite nicely, and if there are any fumes from that tank............. I'm not quoting "Elf & safety" or trying to frighten you............... just the experience of attending to someone in A&E who did just that a few years ago with extensive burns!! ( if you're going to drill it you might want to consider an old hand operated drill.)
Noise Posted June 6, 2012 Posted June 6, 2012 A cordless battery drill doesn't have that problem. Um yes it dose lol, Turn off all the lights in your living room and pull the trigger on your cordless drill, your see some nice blue sparks coming out of the little vents above your hand lol
Moderator drewpy Posted June 6, 2012 Moderator Posted June 6, 2012 use machine oil to stop the sparks and put a wet towel over the tank too
Campaman Posted June 7, 2012 Posted June 7, 2012 Um yes it dose lol, Turn off all the lights in your living room and pull the trigger on your cordless drill, your see some nice blue sparks coming out of the little vents above your hand lol So it does, never noticed it with the portable one before, my mains is very noticeable. Mind you I had to wait until 10:30pm before it was dark enough to see it...
Grouch Posted June 12, 2012 Author Posted June 12, 2012 I can't be arsed going through all that just to replace them. What a rigmerole. I have noticed quite a few have seized or threaded. I don't want to start messing about with it and make it worse.
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