Sacha Posted May 26, 2012 Posted May 26, 2012 Please forgive me if I'm posting this in the wrong forum. With this being a 3-day (rainy/windy) weekend I thought I could get some things checked out on my bike. My husband thinks I'm crazy, but I did it anyway (just like a woman, eh?). Here's how she's looking at the moment... She seems to feel a bit wiggly in the front end when I get her going (around 40-45 mph). Maybe because it's such a small bike that's just how it is, but I'm not really sure since I don't have anything to compare it to. ?? Anyway, the tire pressure is good so I thought I should have a look at the run out, bearings, etc. so I took off the tires. The bearings (front and rear) feel good (not rough or catchy) and the run out is good (front and rear tires). So I must just be paranoid... unless there's something else I should check? I've also been hearing some noise from my rear brake and thought while I was at it I might as well look into that too (I mean the tires were already off so what the hell). The front and rear brake shoes look like they have plenty of material left on them, but I think they are shiny. The manual states that I can use 320 sandpaper to rough them up. Do the shoes look like I should give that a try? The manual also states that I can clean up the drums with 400 emery cloth (for any scratches) and then lacquer thinner. My rear shocks are quite squeaky and unfortunately they are obsolete. I found a guy in town who said he can probably get some made for me so I may spring for the rebuild-able ones. So since I had everything else off already, I took those off too. I'll be taking them over to the guy tomorrow morning. The front forks seem to have plenty of cushion when I push on them, but is there a way to "test" them? Should I drain the oil and change it out? I think the rear sprocket looks good so I don't think I'll pull the change lever to check the front. Really she had less than 600 miles on her when I bought her so there can't be that much wear on the chain and sprockets, right? I think I'll clean them while they're off (is kerosene the best thing to use for that?). Of course, not being ridden for a long time can be hard on a bike too. Are there certain things I should be checking because of that? I'm sure an oil change and fresh gas can't hurt. I ran into a snag with the brake cable though. It's fraying at the lever end, and wouldn't you know it, the cable is obsolete. I forgot to ask the guy at the shop if that's something he can get using the measurements, but I searched the forums and also found where splittie65 recommended Venhill Engineering so I may check them out. Venhill Engineering make cables to order.......http://www.venhill.co.uk/ They are making some custom cables for me at the moment......their cables are sold worldwide. Here's hoping I can get it all back together right! Any input, suggestions, scoldings are welcome! btw - sorry if the pics are crap... it's hard for me to take one-handed pics with my phone. oh, and just on the odd chance, anyone know how to get oil and grease out of clothes? i was smart enough to put on my apron, but not smart enough to put on the coveralls! another lesson learned the hard way.
up.yours Posted May 26, 2012 Posted May 26, 2012 why is it that you yanks have lovely big garages to work in , and us brits only have shitty little sheds,
Sacha Posted May 26, 2012 Author Posted May 26, 2012 Wow!! That's tiny. I noticed that with Keith's bobber project too after he put up the shed. How are you all supposed to get anything done in such a tight spot? You must just be able to store your bike in there and nothing else!
nayruf Posted May 26, 2012 Posted May 26, 2012 Hi Sacha Your bike looks like it has had a very easy life every thing looks nice and new, I suspect that a lot of FS1E parts are interchangable with your bike, such as the front brake cable, shocks and pehaps even mud guards, here in the UK the FS1E has a cult following so there are a few companys that specialise in parts such as 'yambits', you might want to give them a look over to see what new bits and pieces you can get, replacement FS1E shocks are about £40.00 here
Moderator DirtyDT Posted May 26, 2012 Moderator Posted May 26, 2012 .................... How are you all supposed to get anything done in such a tight spot? ............................... We are used to getting out of tight spots. Brake shoes - rough and then clean the inner drum as described. Be careful to use a fluid that evapoates and does not lubricate. Wobble - although the head bearings aren't "rough or catchy", do they need just pinching up a bit? Forks - the springs go but change the oil just in case. It can't hurt. It looks fab.
Sacha Posted May 26, 2012 Author Posted May 26, 2012 Hi Sacha Your bike looks like it has had a very easy life every thing looks nice and new, I suspect that a lot of FS1E parts are interchangable with your bike, such as the front brake cable, shocks and pehaps even mud guards, here in the UK the FS1E has a cult following so there are a few companys that specialise in parts such as 'yambits', you might want to give them a look over to see what new bits and pieces you can get, replacement FS1E shocks are about £40.00 here She really has had a sheltered life. I lucked out finding her. I think that keeping up on periodic maintenance (lubing the cables, changing oil and filters, etc) will help keep her in top shape. I like the FS1E. That is a sweet looking bike. I had hoped someone would know of a model that might have comparable parts, and I thank you! As it is, my replacement headlight is from a 1968 YG5T. I'll definitely check into Yambits. My plan for this dreary day is to check/change the air filter, take measurements on the shocks for replacements, measure the brake cable, check the autolube pump to make sure it's set correctly, clean and lube the chain, rough the shoes, clean the drums, and then drain and change the fork oil. And hopefully get her put back together so I can go for a ride (thunderstorms or not). I have two NOS air filters that are in pretty poor shape. The paper is just so old that it's falling apart. I might experiment with one by replacing the paper with foam. Anyone have suggestions as to the best way to do that or the best foam and oil to use? Will I have to modify the carburetor to accommodate it? I'll do some searching on the forum to see what info I can find. ...Wobble - although the head bearings aren't "rough or catchy", do they need just pinching up a bit?... When you say "pinching up" do you mean check to see if the outer racing is loose in the hub? I don't see a pinch bolt in the assembly or the breakdown. But I will for sure check to make sure they are well-seated and snug. Thank you all again! It's funny, my husband said he was going to hide from me this weekend, but I've been happier than a pig in slop... guess I don't get as angry as he and my dad do when they're working on things. I should probably hold my tongue until I get it all put back together though eh?
Moderator DirtyDT Posted May 26, 2012 Moderator Posted May 26, 2012 yep. At the top of the frame neck there should be a large threaded ring that is normally tightened by a C spanner. It tightens up the head bearings when they start to wear. You may have to remove the large stem bolt and a cover to see it. It will be at the top of the part of yolk (triple tree) that goes through the frame.
Sacha Posted May 26, 2012 Author Posted May 26, 2012 yep. At the top of the frame neck there should be a large threaded ring that is normally tightened by a C spanner. It tightens up the head bearings when they start to wear. You may have to remove the large stem bolt and a cover to see it. It will be at the top of the part of yolk (triple tree) that goes through the frame. Hmm. I thought you meant the bearing in the wheel hub (that's why I didn't think there was a pinch bolt). Are you referring to the steering head bearings? Have I got it right that the yoke is what my manual has listed as the "handle crown" (item 15 in image below)? So what I need to do is make sure that the steering head nut (item 8) is tight. Is that right or am I way off again? Sorry to be a pain. Thanks again DirtyDT!
Moderator DirtyDT Posted May 27, 2012 Moderator Posted May 27, 2012 Number 8 it is. Check that item 8 is not too loose. strip off item 15 It doesn't have to be really tight but and then you can get to item 8. You need a C spanner (people use a flat screwdriver and hammer but not recommended). Tighten up 8 until it is not stiff but not too loose. It squeezes the ball bearings which may have worn due to use or lack of grease. Personally I would change the head bearings. Taper ones are best if you can get them. if not, and you strip this down further, you will probably find that the ball bearings are in bad condition or even have some missing. Lots of grease around the ball bearings.
Sacha Posted May 27, 2012 Author Posted May 27, 2012 Thanks! I will check that out today. yesterday's plan turned out to be too ambitious so I should get her finished up today. I got stuck trying to remove the left side crankcase cover because the screws were so tight and one head was nearly stripped. I needed to get that off to get the chain back on. Finally got it though so now I guess I will have a look at the front sprocket. Now I just need to install the chain, adjust the rear wheel alignment, check that steering head nut, and adjust front and rear brakes. Then I should be able to take her out. I'll also look into the new taper bearing when I get the other parts I need. I can't thank you all enough! You are wonderful!!
Sacha Posted May 30, 2012 Author Posted May 30, 2012 Got her all put back together again... although you wouldn't know it from the pic. I checked that steering nut and it was tight. I think this winter when I tear into the motor I'll look into those bearings more too. I did encounter a couple of oddities though... The Clymer manual doesn't mention anything about an oil filter. Does anyone have any ideas where I should look? Kinda feel stupid on that one. Guess I better re-read the manual. It also didn't list any torque specs and I want to be sure that my axle bolts, etc. are tight enough. Is there a general rule about how tight they should be? The bolts for the shocks were the only ones I had to use a cheater bar to loosen. Plus, there aren't any drain plugs for the forks so it looks like I will have to do it as was mentioned by YPVS TONE and MRR in another forum post: ...removing the forks from the bike, removing the top cap and springs and turning the forks upside down to drain. ...the suggestion you had about taking the end cap off and inverting the forks is probably the best way to go, once the forks are inverted you can then pump them up and down to remove any old oil that is in them and leave them overnight to drain out. I used 20/50 motor oil in mine as the haynes book of jokes said it was an accepteble alternative to fork oil which is twice as expensive and it does the same job and has an almost identical sae number!... Other than that and the new brake cable, she is good to go. Thanks for all of your help! I feel so much better knowing that the brakes, spokes, bearings, etc. are in good working order.
nayruf Posted May 30, 2012 Posted May 30, 2012 Hi Sacha i am pretty sure that your bike does not have an oil filter, in fact I am positive that it doesnt have one, the oil in the gear case is only to lubricate the gears and clutch and these gears etc are bathed in the oil as they are running, the crank case and cylinder are lubricated via the fuel/auto lube pump so as this oil is burned away and not re-used it is not filtered.
Sacha Posted May 30, 2012 Author Posted May 30, 2012 Thank you for confirming my suspicions AJ. It's greatly appreciated. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing a critical step. I know not changing oil filters on cars will cause major problems... and that's the last thing I want to do with my baby.
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