Jump to content

Chain and Sproket and Other bearing.


JoeS
This post is 4605 days old and we'd rather you create a new post instead of adding to this one. You can't reply in this post.

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I own and ride a Yammy YBR125 Custom 58 reg, A few months ago I had a new chain and sproket fitted costing me a hefty £160 from a Yamaha Dealer. I lubricated it as often as i thought needed(Usually on a weekly basis) and took it in to get the chain tention done when needed. But allready a few months down the line it needs doing again...

A few days ago I took it in to get the chain adjusted and the service manager said he has done what he can but it is now at the maximum adjustment point so you will need a new chain and sproket, Also there is (And I dont remember this exactly so it is a vague explenation) something that moves to much that shouldnt move as much as it should and he descrived the motion as a Circular motion so I presume it is also something to do with the sproket.

Now ive been looking at a few vids on Youtube about changing sprokets and it all seems fine and dandy but Id like to know if Yamaha have any special tools needed for the job or anything specifics I need to know for the job.

Any ideas on what the turning part is would be great, He said the part would cost around £20 on average and can be fitted when you change the sproket. Any ideas on where I could find the Torque settings for the sproket bolts ect would be ace aswell!

I cant afford to spend £180 on it as Im a student and well... I dont have £180.

I came off of this bike back in December due to a large amount of mud in the middle of a 60mph road just around a corner and I completely lost interest in the bike after that but Id like to get back into it now as it used to be my pride and Joy before the accident.

Any help will be amazing.

Thanks!

Joe.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you want an ad-free experience? Join today and help support the Yamaha Owners Club.
  • Moderator

sounds to me like you need a decent bike shop, from what you say i would imagine some muppet has overtightend the chain for you, I would not imagine you need any special tools but not being familiar with the YBR cannot be 100% sure, it is most probably the sprocket carrier bearing,

hopefully at that price the dealer would have fitted original yamaha parts and no way they should have worn out in that time , personally if you have the receipt and the mileage is on it and you have not done very many miles since it was fitted etc, i would go to the dealer and ask to see someone above the service manager and say you are not happy with it, dont be aggresive just speak nicely to them, and se what they say.

Edited by alexasigno
Links to copyright material removed.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As mervin has said it shouldn't have worn out out in that time providing that it has been adjusted correctly and kept lubricated. The dealer sounds like he was on about the sprocket carrier bearing but if the chain has been overtightened this will cause it to fail as well as putting strain on the rear wheel bearings and also the front spocket output shaft bearing. What free play have you got in the chain at the middle of the bottom run ? What kind of chain lube are you using ? Again as mervin has said check your receipt which should have the mileage on it when the work was done and provided they used Genuine Parts which they should have done at that price ask about the warranty on the parts.

Tony

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi There, I Take it to Pro Bike in Newbury everytime I get it done. When I had it done there once I noticed that it almost had no play in it atall. I use Yamalube Platinum chain spray for it. I will get the history out a bit later and check the milage on it. Thanks for the help, I will update when I have had a look.

Joe.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, It was done on the 19th November 2011 so A bit longer than I thought.

It was done when my bike was at: 18697 Miles and it now has 21521 On the clock.

Surly a Chain and sproket set should last more than 2800 miles?

Thanks

Joe

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderator

Definitely, lesson here is learn how to adjust the chain yourself. I will not use dealers, i , if i have no other choice will use people i know can do the job even if it costs me. Dealers can rot as far as i care i haven't used one that hasn't tried some sort of con.

Going against the popular line here i think the fellow is on about the cush drive (if the ybr has one) which would be doable at the same time as the sprocket as it 'just' pushes into place.

One thing bothering me, although being dealer related meh. Surely this chain and sprocket set is well under 12months old and covered manifestly less than the expected mileage and you have even had it adjusted and maintained by the (St)dealer. Can you not claim for defective goods.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes it should last longer then that but as mentioned depends how well it is mantained. If you are using the platinum lube this should be ideal as it is Yamaha's own brand and is what I use and found it one of the best as it stays on the chain well. The only thing is you mentioned that the dealer adjusted it to very little play in it then this will drastically reduce the life of the chain and sprockets. In the manual in say's you should have between 20-30mm of freeplay measured in the middle of the bottom chain run with the bike on the centre stand. Any less and it won't take long before they are worn out. Maybe you should have a go at doing it yourself. Providing you follow the book and make sure everything is tightened / torqued up afterwards you should be ok, then you know it is done right.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Going against the popular line here i think the fellow is on about the cush drive (if the ybr has one) which would be doable at the same time as the sprocket as it 'just' pushes into place.

That defenatly sounds familiar to what he said.

On the Diy matter I am a motor vehicle enginerring student doing level 2 and I can do alot of jobs on cars fine but when it comes to bikes... I dont have a clue! Even reading the book when I tried to do it myself once I couldnt do it.

Thanks for the Information guys

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderator

That defenatly sounds familiar to what he said.

On the Diy matter I am a motor vehicle enginerring student doing level 2 and I can do alot of jobs on cars fine but when it comes to bikes... I dont have a clue! Even reading the book when I tried to do it myself once I couldnt do it.

Thanks for the Information guys

I really don't know what to say to that.

The basic principles are the same, engine is an engine. A chain drive is about as basic as it gets. Same as a timing chain, same as a primary chain. Mechanics is mechanics,

Stumped............ :shakeno:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I attempted my chain tention a while ago and could I get it to tighten? nope, I Shall have to give it another go when I fit the new one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As Cynic has said chain maintenance on a bike is pretty basic stuff but it always makes me wonder when you see how many people get it wrong, even Dealers. Remember a few years ago my Brothers mate took his new Triumph in to an Official Triumph Dealer for it's first service and noticed on the ride home there was an annoying whine from the rear. When he got home he noticed there was no freeplay in the chain at all and it was as tight as a bow string. Needless to say he never took it back there for a service if they couldn't even do that right !! Makes me smile when you go to local bike meets and you see all these latest superbikes with all the latest end cans on to get an extra few BHP, then you look at the chain and it's nearly draggin on the ground with no lube and the sprockets all hooked.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One thing to bear in mind, of all the good advice given one thing not mentioned is that after loosening the rear axle bolt you must adjust the left hand and right hand tensioners evenly or you will put the wheel alignment out. Most bikes have guide markings on the frame by the rear axle bolt.

I hope this hasn't put you off Joe, but if you have got a Haynes manual it will explain it with photo's

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ive been thinking about getting a Haynes manual for it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderator

One thing to bear in mind, of all the good advice given one thing not mentioned is that after loosening the rear axle bolt you must adjust the left hand and right hand tensioners evenly or you will put the wheel alignment out. Most bikes have guide markings on the frame by the rear axle bolt.

I hope this hasn't put you off Joe, but if you have got a Haynes manual it will explain it with photo's

The other favorite is not loosening the torque arm.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you want to do your own maintenance a Haynes manual is a very good investment and is worth it's weight in gold.

It shows you step by step how to do things with a lot of photo's and diagrams. Plus how easy/difficult a job is.

It also guides you how often to do routine maintenance i.e. oil changes etc

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had one a couple of years ago when I used to have a Pug speedfight 2 and it was ace for help on things, Its just as I said in the OP , Im a student and low on money. Im sure Ill be able to get one at some point.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderator

I had one a couple of years ago when I used to have a Pug speedfight 2 and it was ace for help on things, Its just as I said in the OP , Im a student and low on money. Im sure Ill be able to get one at some point.

If you had bought the manual and all the tools as well as the chain and sprockets you would still have spent considerably less than 180quid. And have prob 80-100 quid in your pocket.

Pleading poverty when your talking about the manual is lame. It will save its own cost many many times over in your situation.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pleading poverty when your talking about the manual is lame. It will save its own cost many many times over in your situation.

Without a Doubt, Not denying that it will save a fortune over time, I allready have the tools for the job providing there is no Unknown special tool needed for the job. I jut need to get the chain and sprocket, Other part and the manual and I should be good to go. Im coming into £60 spare in a couple of weeks so Ill get the Chain and Sprockets first.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As both Cynic and I say. Get a Haynes manual for about £20 and you will recover that amount in the first job you do, plus you will get to know the workings of your bike.

If you know what or how a particular thing works it's easier to repair or maintain it.

If you can't afford one because your a student stay in one night over the weekend instead of going to Spoons and you've got the money to buy one, simple.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Were not having a go at you Joe, just trying to help but it's up to you where your priorities are.

All I'm trying to emphasize is get a manual and do it yourself and save a lot of money.

I learnt the hard way in the seventies and have never looked back.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Who's Online (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...