Moderator Airhead Posted April 8, 2012 Moderator Posted April 8, 2012 sellers are often helpful if you ask questions, after all they want to shift stuff! ask them about the bolt hole centres, the distance from these centres to the end of the plunger when it's pressed in etc etc you can then check these dimensions against your frame fixings and the tab of the stand that presses the plunger etc
thomasrolewis Posted April 8, 2012 Author Posted April 8, 2012 Good to say guys that it worked! Bridged the connections and it went into gear. It now runs at least. It did take me a while to get it started again, what do you think this could be? To big a gap in the spark plug bit? Or am I just doing it wrong? What I did, sat on it. Tried to start it, didn't start. Then did the choke, nothing for ages. Spurted (?) once but then I finally got it going. Maybe 5 mins of trying. The chain is way to loose so I'm going to sort that out tomorrow. And then I need to tackle the electrics - or I might take it too a garage to do that. It needs the left switch and the fronts lights/indicators doing. I'm hoping they wont charge a lot. £50-£70?
Moderator DirtyDT Posted April 8, 2012 Moderator Posted April 8, 2012 A new plug with the right gap setting to start. Always turn the petrol off at the petcock (petrol switch) when you park. Remember to turn if back on before starting the bike again. A good clean of the carb. A new air filter. New oil and filter. Practice different starting techniques. choke/no throttle - choke/a little throttle - choke/full throttle to see what the bike likes.
thomasrolewis Posted April 8, 2012 Author Posted April 8, 2012 I hear you, I'll get some of these this week. Cleaning the carb will be an experience! Thanks for your help guys!
Moderator Airhead Posted April 8, 2012 Moderator Posted April 8, 2012 Good to say guys that it worked! Bridged the connections and it went into gear. It now runs at least. It did take me a while to get it started again, what do you think this could be? To big a gap in the spark plug bit? Or am I just doing it wrong? What I did, sat on it. Tried to start it, didn't start. Then did the choke, nothing for ages. Spurted (?) once but then I finally got it going. Maybe 5 mins of trying. The chain is way to loose so I'm going to sort that out tomorrow. And then I need to tackle the electrics - or I might take it too a garage to do that. It needs the left switch and the fronts lights/indicators doing. I'm hoping they wont charge a lot. £50-£70? at best it could just be your technique...you are new to the bike. Usually full choke and none to very little throttle is what's required At worst it could be down on compression and would need a compression test to verify...i expect this may be a bit out of reach for you at the moment though...how many miles has she done?
thomasrolewis Posted April 8, 2012 Author Posted April 8, 2012 Quite a few, 31000. But the last guy didn't really look after it I don't think. I want to get it working and work on it to learn how to do stuff. Hopefully I can bring her back to her former glory. It's not even money she needs. It's some cleaning, some paint and some new screws.
Moderator Airhead Posted April 8, 2012 Moderator Posted April 8, 2012 31000, yeah i guess it's time for a rebore then, unless it's had one before
thomasrolewis Posted April 8, 2012 Author Posted April 8, 2012 At least it runs and stuff now. I will clean the carb this week, and order new filters and spark plug. That should keep me busy.
Paulwhite Posted April 8, 2012 Posted April 8, 2012 try putting no more than a teaspoon of motor oil in the spark plug hole (this should temporarily fix any compression issue) then try and start .....you will get a little smoke but it should start up better (if it is the compression) if it starts the same then i reckon your carb needs a good clean think the next step would be a full service clean air filter drop the oil flush and refill with good stuff new spark plug strip, clean, and reset carb possible new brake pads.
thomasrolewis Posted April 8, 2012 Author Posted April 8, 2012 I think I'll do all of the above yeah. I've got to wait for some money to come through before I can replace the oil (and as I have none I can't really do the air filter either.) What type of oil would you suggest? 10W40 - but what brand? I can however sort the chain out and the carb. How difficult is it to strip, clean and reset the carb? I had a look in the manual but could really tell. I also need to get the electrics running properly before It is roadworthy, It is relentlessly confusing.
Moderator Airhead Posted April 8, 2012 Moderator Posted April 8, 2012 make sure you use bike specific oil thomas or you will have clutch slip, ring opie oils they will advise and may have an offer on
thomasrolewis Posted April 9, 2012 Author Posted April 9, 2012 OK, I ordered the Haynes for the bike today so that will tell me. I did the chain and checked the oil today Well tried too, but the window was so dirty I couldn't see. The bike had some trouble idling today. It's fine for a few minutes but then it starts to idle alot slower and then cuts out. I'm going to leave it until I can take apart the carb and do the oil and air. Oh, when looking at new filters I saw this, which is a newer style airfilter that replaces the airbox. Right? Opinions? Once I have done the servicing I'll check the idling again and adjust if I need too. Some paint and some new bolts might be in order too!
Moderator Airhead Posted April 9, 2012 Moderator Posted April 9, 2012 not a fan of those filters myself, i would never junk an airbox in preference to one of those, get a proper yamaha filter is what i say (if you need one)
thomasrolewis Posted April 9, 2012 Author Posted April 9, 2012 Fair enough, I'll just get replacement foam then. Think that is all I need.
Moderator Airhead Posted April 9, 2012 Moderator Posted April 9, 2012 you may have to dampen the foam with oil and soak out any excess with kitchen roll? not sure...may be in the manual or ask the seller
thomasrolewis Posted April 10, 2012 Author Posted April 10, 2012 Yeah, pretty sure I have to do that. So I have to wait. Hopefully cleaning the carb will do some good. I'm still looking to see if the switch on ebay will fit my bike. I have no idea how to find out.
thomasrolewis Posted April 12, 2012 Author Posted April 12, 2012 Hey, Just a quick question. It was suggested that I took the carb apart as part of a service. But my manual and some biker friends have said that unless I know it needs cleaning, don't bother. So my question is, shall I take it part and clean it anyway? Or shall I do everything else like oil and air first before deciding to take it apart? Personally, I don't mind taking apart and stuff. But it's whether I need too or not. I'm giving the bike a mega clean this weekend ready to work on it. Before taking the carb out, shall I adjust the fuel mix to try and obtain better revs when idling or just go ahead and clean it? Thanks.
Recommended Posts