Moderator DirtyDT Posted November 20, 2011 Moderator Posted November 20, 2011 ...........................want to see more pics? I do! This is something I will need to do and I am confident I can do it. I can take my wheels to CWC (Central wheels) but then I would have to get them to blast and paint the hubs which would add another £100 plus.
Moderator Airhead Posted November 20, 2011 Moderator Posted November 20, 2011 I do! This is something I will need to do and I am confident I can do it. I can take my wheels to CWC (Central wheels) but then I would have to get them to blast and paint the hubs which would add another £100 plus. Right then so, I was going to rebuild my own and just buy the spokes but in the end it just didnt seem worth the bother for the price and had them done at Manchester Xtreme However I did take a few pictures for reference and to order the correct length and type of spokes. I took pictures for example this and then when I stripped the wheels I could bundle up the spokes and label them with the colours code i chose and order the spokes accordingly, take care about the amount of bend at the end of the spoke, I frogot now but it relates to inner/outer variants...BTW i tend to use paint.net to re size, edit and alter photos like this, its quite good and free before disassembly make a note of the measurement from rim to brake hub...I did a PDF drawing to give the builder, if you want Alan I'll send you it and you can check yours and amend it if necessary and enclose a copy with your parcel BTW mine still came back not to that PDF which was a bit annoying but an easy fix with just slackening all the spokes one side then tightening the other side by the same amount so also enclose a threatening letter...sure mention me! something to consider and make note of is which side of the hub is the rim info on, note this before disassembly and tell your builder to do it that way, I assume you'd want to do that so you would do this for each side of both wheels using different colour codes for all the spokes Hubs...dont bother stripping off sound paint, leave it as a primer, just rub it down with scotchbrite to key it, all other flaking and corroded areas strip smooth and prime. Top coat... well I used PJ1 satin but can you still get this stuff? I would NOT recommend powder coating, I know to my cost! Rims, clean all rust as far as possible and prime with zinc rich primer before building
Moderator DirtyDT Posted November 20, 2011 Moderator Posted November 20, 2011 I spoke to these people a while ago LINKY. I think that the outsource the building and were keen to make sure all the measurements were taken and information on how the rims were laced was gathered before they were taken apart. In other words, don't turn up with 2 hubs. I seem to remember they are a little cheaper than anywhere else, and they are closer to me than anyone else I don't know what the quality is like, does anyone know(?) as it is pretty scary to throw £500 into something that is key for safety.
NE0 Posted November 22, 2011 Author Posted November 22, 2011 Very impressive paul, those hubs and wheels look OEM!!! well done As you know i took my wheels off at the weekend and whilst I contemplated painting the hubs on Sunday ...we went out for the day! so nothing got done other than a clean up.... I read your posts yesterday, and phoned Owen, and asked whether he wanted me to remove the spokes or send them complete. To keep the offset he wanted them with the spokes on and so he could lace them up to match. So I'm just going to spray the hubs through the existing spokes, it won't like like yours but as long as its presentable i'll be happy. The rims are rustless but there are lots of fine scratches on the sides. They look fine from 3 or 4 feet but up close they are not concours. Having cleaned the hubs with degreaser spray, and rags through the spokes, the paint is uniform, no flakes, and no corrosion. A spray through should brighten them up. I've arranged collection for a tenner and they get picked up on friday......got a couple of evenings to finish them if necessary. Thanks OG for your help on this one
Moderator Airhead Posted November 22, 2011 Moderator Posted November 22, 2011 .......... I read your posts yesterday, and phoned Owen, and asked whether he wanted me to remove the spokes or send them complete. To keep the offset he wanted them with the spokes on and so he could lace them up to match. So I'm just going to spray the hubs through the existing spokes, it won't like like yours but as long as its presentable i'll be happy. The rims are rustless but there are lots of fine scratches on the sides. They look fine from 3 or 4 feet but up close they are not concours. Having cleaned the hubs with degreaser spray, and rags through the spokes, the paint is uniform, no flakes, and no corrosion. A spray through should brighten them up. I've arranged collection for a tenner and they get picked up on friday......got a couple of evenings to finish them if necessary. Thanks OG for your help on this one Alan he built mine from hubs and rims, as for the offset all he needs is the measurement as in the pic i posted of the diagram I made its your call though...
NE0 Posted November 22, 2011 Author Posted November 22, 2011 Paul, I've wrapped them now, but I'll enclose your picture in my letter so he knows. whether he takes any notice is a different story! what white Zinc primer did you use on the inside rims?
NE0 Posted December 15, 2011 Author Posted December 15, 2011 Good news, The wheels are on their way back and should arrive on Friday (15th) The cost was £135 for both wheels which included P&P. which I'm pleased with. Took a little longer than they said but I thought they were being a bit optimistic, I anticipated they would be gone for about 4 weeks. I've been running on the old ebay wheels without problems. So I'll keep them on now until after Christmas and fit the tyres onto the rebuilt rims. I'll do this in the time I'm allowed to go down the shed over the holiday's! (Paul.....what Brand of white primer did you use?)
Moderator Airhead Posted December 15, 2011 Moderator Posted December 15, 2011 Good news, The wheels are on their way back and should arrive on Friday (15th) The cost was £135 for both wheels which included P&P. which I'm pleased with. Took a little longer than they said but I thought they were being a bit optimistic, I anticipated they would be gone for about 4 weeks. I've been running on the old ebay wheels without problems. So I'll keep them on now until after Christmas and fit the tyres onto the rebuilt rims. I'll do this in the time I'm allowed to go down the shed over the holiday's! (Paul.....what Brand of white primer did you use?) Good stuff NEO, bear in mind that mine came back with slightly wrong offset so i loosened all the spokes one side then tightened all the other side the same amount....both wheels, no bother though the primer was 'ambersil zinc primer'
NE0 Posted December 16, 2011 Author Posted December 16, 2011 The wheels are back Emmmmmm Shiney wheels...................... They also gave me a can of Q20 to protect them from all the road salt to come, (after abit of sales pitch!) mind you an interesting video on you tube shows an electric drill run underwater!!! with an advice NOT to try this at home!............Nutter!!
Geoclinton Posted December 20, 2011 Posted December 20, 2011 Nice one Neo lookin good fancy a run out when i am on the road?
NE0 Posted December 31, 2011 Author Posted December 31, 2011 Last job for 2011 was to refit the tyres onto the refurbished rims and replace the wheels onto the DT. The ebay temp wheels, which have rusty spokes as bad as mine before I had the spokes replaced show up against the new spokes. Heres a couple of shots to show how much improved they appear, and all coated with Q20 for the winter!
Simon46 Posted August 4, 2014 Posted August 4, 2014 Just dropped my dt175mx wheels at Manchesterextreme. He quoted 60 per wheel. Busy though 5 pairs dropped off this weekend. Said one to two weeks turnaround. S.
Moderator DirtyDT Posted August 4, 2014 Moderator Posted August 4, 2014 From experience and my preference. Make sure the drum is round and doesn't need skimming. If you are going for S/S spokes then why not stainless rims too Get them to paint the hubs If you are going for full stainless, make sure you get the right nipples and not ones that are going to rust. Purists will say that the stainless rims are a slightly different profile but unless you are using all NOS bolts etc I do not think that matters much.
NE0 Posted August 4, 2014 Author Posted August 4, 2014 I wrote this original post back in 2011 and the price doesn't seem to have changed! £120 for two and mine was around £130 which included postage. Anyone fancy resurrecting my post on DT 12volt conversion? NB Jeeeesuzzzzzz I've just seen its been read over 27,700 times and is in the top 4 of the most read in the workshop section!! now if only i had a £1 for every read..............................(this time next year Rodney we'll be millionaires!) 1
Simon46 Posted September 6, 2014 Posted September 6, 2014 Well went to pick them up 2 spokes sharp through nipples so went back the next day after he ground them down. Now rear rim has the stop bolted through to stop tyre slip but the front one is not present but the hole for it is there. Is there a stop bolted onto the front rim? cant remember if I took it off or not. Regards Simon
Moderator Airhead Posted September 7, 2014 Moderator Posted September 7, 2014 no simon you can buy a rubber grommet from yamaha to block that off nicely, and unless you're doing some serious enduro stuff I'd recommend you block off the back one too because it isnt needed and plays havoc with your wheel balance as you can imagine
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