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Tips for removing damaged oil drain plug


RubySR
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Went to do the SR's first oil change today and have managed to (quite badly) damage the drain plug. The plug didn't move at all so it's still sealed but I've rounded a few of the nut corners:

th_IMAG0261.jpg

I have a new drain plug and oil seal, any tips for getting the old one off?

I only have 'simple' tools (normal / ring spanners, socket set), how much would I expect to pay for a garage to remove it if I can't?

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That doesn't look too bad. The problem you have is getting into the area. Heat is good, but not near fuel!! a BIG pipe wrench, but you may be limited for space. I would think that a quality socket tapped on with a decent size breaker bar would still shift that. There is a huge difference in cheap sockets and decent ones. Even if you pop to Halfords and buy a single one from their professional range, 1/2 inch drive.

I am a big believer of "brute strength and ignorance" but I like a little plusgas to go with that too. I will warn you that sometimes they will just not shift and you will hear of people telling you to weld a nut onto it and use the nut to undo it.

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A 6 sided socket is your first stop, you may have to tap it on with a hammer, and then you need a long enough bar to shift it. My company manufacture steel nuts and a bad fitting 12 point socket can take the corners off easily, if the 6 point does not work I would either start looking at extractors or grind 2 flats to accept a good quality spanner.

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Went to do the SR's first oil change today and have managed to (quite badly) damage the drain plug. The plug didn't move at all so it's still sealed but I've rounded a few of the nut corners:

th_IMAG0261.jpg

I have a new drain plug and oil seal, any tips for getting the old one off?

I only have 'simple' tools (normal / ring spanners, socket set), how much would I expect to pay for a garage to remove it if I can't?

Gently tapping around the outside to shock the internal thread a little, and a decent pair of mole grips should undo it I reckon, failing that, like DT says knock onto it another socket, but slightly smaller I'd use an imperial socket, if it's 13mm try a 7/16" socket, as thats the equivelent to 12mm or near as damn it, your local recycling centre will have a bucket full of old sockets and tools dirt cheap.

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centre punch it. anti clock wise, on the edge of the nut flange , once it moves use the mole grips, ffs don't pay a garage to do it.

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To remove a rounded plug like you have here, I would escalate my efforts.

What I mean by this is firstly as others have said try a six sided socket but before I fitted the socket I would gently tap the corners back into shape with a light hammer. Then and apply positive effort to turn the plug whilst holding the socket firmly on the nut head,

On Aircraft components we used to use a what we called a ‘grolly bar’ this was a device that pushed the socket firmly on to the nut head, we would remove 2 adjacent mounting studs/screws and fit two long threaded studs in their place, on these studs we would fit a nut and then a flat plate that would straddle across the back of the plug, this plate would then be used to hold the socket firmly in place and stop it slipping.

If this does not look like working there is another type of six sided socket that applies pressure on the sides of the flats, you could try one of those,

Failing this you could try a small stillson wrench but access I assume would be a problem so you have to balance your efforts minimising the damage that is likely to be caused, against the components you will have to remove for access

Appling heat to the plug to make the metal expand could help to encourage the plug to move also.

Others suggest you could use a punch to drift the plug around, but the metals involved are very easy to damaged so using a punch can make things worse,

Good luck and be patient,

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