Gidday all

I really need some help. I just put new clutch plates etc in my DT 175A and can't find first gear now. Is it because of the clutch change over?

I have mucked around with the clutch adjuster (not sure what to do here) and 1st is still lost

Any advice would be appreciated

cheers

Sean

Hi Sean,

I don't think it would be the new plates. Even with no clutch you should still be able to engage the gears (engine not running), you just have to move it backwards and forwards a bit.

It was OK before you changed the plates?

You might need to adjust where the gear selector engages with the pins on the shift cam. You have to take the clutch off to get at that (on the 250 anyways).

When you replaced the clutch plates did you see where the gear selector has a little claw thing that moves a cam around? That might be it.

Hope that helps,

Gordo

Thanks Gordo

I was talking about this over a beer with a mate this afternoon. I told him that I remember moving the selector and spring behind the clutch housing when the outside casing was off and I was waiting for parts.

I will check to see if there is anything about how to set these components and see if I moved it of of position.

much appreciated cheers

Sean

sean is there a pointer on the actuator arm and a corresponding raised mark on the top of the crank case ?

Thanks I will be pulling the right hand side cover off this week and will have a real close good look.

I really appreciate help - I can't wait to get my baby registered!!

PS re-introduced myself on the members page because it's been several years since I have posted

Hi - I think the actuator arm is a bit high. The manual shows it a bit more level with the hook reaching over to the selector a little more.

Could you help with some advice on how to remove the clutch housing - they keep spinning when I try to undo the nut

cheers and thanks

Sean

Welding a handle to a couple of plain plates is one way to do it but like you say it leaves you wanting more plates.

Another 'Bling' way is to buy one of these if you can find one, this is mine for a DT175MX (DT175E in USA)

However the cheapest way is to make one of these from some 1/4" flat bar

This was a method as shown in my Haynes manual and the one I used to use before the 'Bling' one. Here is a clip from said Haynes manual

...Paul

Somewhere else andrewp had a picture of the rod he welded to clutch steel driven plate, similar to first picture here.

I'll be trying that clip but for now I use a strap and wrap it around the clutch a few times. Kind of the same way an oil filter tool works

I got one of these LINKY. Like mole grips with a different end. Chunkier that I thought, Does the clutch, rotor and drive sprocket with ease.

Thanks excess4 for putting up Paul's past post showing the backet removal tool - - absolute champion stuff. I feel so happy that I camn get that done

I'll take these off and see what the acurator arm is doing

Cheers Sean

]PS - is there a "keeper of manuals" at the club - I have an original Yamaha Service manual for the YL2 100cc that needs a better home than my garage. Happy to post it to a club senior

...........Hi - I think the actuator arm is a bit high. The manual shows it a bit more level with the hook reaching over to the selector a little more..............

Sean quite possibly the tension spring has broken see item 14

There is a parts digram for your bike in the workshop forum pinned ttopic 'Parts manuals for yamaha bikes'...thats where i got this pic from

As DirtyDT says you can get a universal clutch holder 'mole grip' type

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item35b497eb54

As for the home made bent steel bar device, it has its limitations, its ok for a stripped engine on the bench because you can place a bar onto wooden blocks through the conrod end at mid stroke...thereby locking the engine. Obviously with the barrel fitted you would have to select a high gear and have someone apply the brakes. The others dont have this limitation because they have extended handles.

Here"s a home made , multi purpose , effort,,,,

Thanks for all the advice - EBAY has one out and I am awaiting the tool

cheers

Sean

Hi again - I recieved the clutch holding tool yesterday - sensational tool but then again I am easily excited. It worked a charm and I removed the clutch housing without a problem.

The picture shows the arm high and when I move the gera leaver it doent want to engage the selector wheel.

I was able to move it back by hand to first gear I think and then the arm sat better on the wheel but as soon as I change up to second gear the are stays high like in the photo _ - I don't know if I have explained that well but any advice or direction on how adjust the selector would be greatly approeciated

Also The second photo shows the grooves in the chutch housing - can or should I carefully files these back

cheers and happy riding

Sean

sorry wrong photo

sean the links arent working...canna see the pics, is the spring intact i mentioned earlier?

check out spring #15 in my earlier diagram

yes a little dressing on the grooves in the basket is the norm...they cause notchiness in the clutch

The spring that oldgit described is in place i assume. You asked for any advice, so here is what seemed to happen when adjusting gear select myself. The same as you describe, it didn't seem to click and be ready to shift into next higher or lower gear. I had the shift pedal bolted on shifting by hand and tried numerous attempts/adjustments to get it to go into the next gear.

It seemed that when I shifted by hand and then also slightly turn the motor (transmission) also by hand it would then find / click into place, the next gear and be ready to shift to the next gear.

Return spring weak ,,,

Thanks - is that part 14 or 15 in the parts diagram

cheers

15 Sean, looks like 14 is ok to me