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Reed Petals


NEV
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Managed to change my reed petals to new hy-tech race carbon ones today, both exactly the same thickness and size, but I'd say slightly stiffer than standard ones, the thing is when I went to the exploded view on the parts page,the standard petals show different numbers and prices the same with the metal stoppers, does anybody know why this is, as I've looked and cant see any difference whatsoever.

18442312.jpg

2 = REED VALVE @ £14.43

3 = STOPPER, REED VALVE @ £6.21

6 = REED VALVE @ £13.85

7 = STOPPER, REED VALVE @ £5.92

Have I missed something or what, is there a difference on each side?

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2 = REED VALVE @ £14.43

3 = STOPPER, REED VALVE @ £6.21

6 = REED VALVE @ £13.85

7 = STOPPER, REED VALVE @ £5.92

Have I missed something or what, is there a difference on each side?

beats me NEV, I remebber sometimes there is a corner chopped off one or both ther standard petals on some bikes...cant bloody remember why though but it's obviously to do with correct fitting.

what is the site that gives prices?

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Aye, OG theres a corner snipped off both petals, so I put the new ones the same as the old ones, tops are exactly the same mind,

http://www.gileraspares.co.uk/spares/epc2.asp?ModelID=9138&pageID=7&uid=0

The parts website, A J Suttons.

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On the RD400.s one reed was thicker than the other i cannot remember which one was top which was bottom now, but keep your eye on those reeds if they break they cause a right mess in the engine, people fit them thinking they are safe from damage if they break, wrong !!!, they make a right mess rebore guaranteed from what i am told ,

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On the RD400.s one reed was thicker than the other i cannot remember which one was top which was bottom now, but keep your eye on those reeds if they break they cause a right mess in the engine, people fit them thinking they are safe from damage if they break, wrong !!!, they make a right mess rebore guaranteed from what i am told ,

To be honest Merv, I was more concerned with the screws coming out, so banged some loctite on them just to make sure.

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On the RD400.s one reed was thicker than the other i cannot remember which one was top which was bottom now, but keep your eye on those reeds if they break they cause a right mess in the engine, people fit them thinking they are safe from damage if they break, wrong !!!, they make a right mess rebore guaranteed from what i am told ,

I thought the carbon ones were so that they break up if they enter the engine, causing less damage!

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I thought the carbon ones were so that they break up if they enter the engine, causing less damage!

Aye Drewps they do, could imagine the screws would bugger summat up,mind, if one came loose

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On the standard Yamaha reeds there is a corner cut off on one side by the screw holes as OG has mentioned is to do with correct fitting which when you reasemble you make sure is on the same side as the cut off in the reed stop.If you look at the reeds from the side you will see they are slightly concave and if you fit them upside down you will get a slight gap at the front between the petal and the reed block. I had this on my RD350LC2 as I couldn't get an even tickover and found one of the reeds was fitted wrong resulting in a gap. Also it does also mention in the Genuine Yamaha manuals to put a drop of Loctite on the screw threads to prevent the screws coming undone.

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I thought the carbon ones were so that they break up if they enter the engine, causing less damage!

dont beleive it, they cause more mess than the steel ones i am told , ask Mr Sheene on the RD forum, they break up get behind the rings and all sorts of nasties, carbon in the big end bearings bearings think about it , metal ones will just mangle and go out of the exhaust port hopefully

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