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End of tether


NEV
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Been told by the 'oh great one who menstruates' that before I spend anymore money on "that bloody bike" (the dt)that I've got to get rid of some of the other bikes, fair enough, theres two or three bikes that are more or less ready for flogging on, one of them is a Motorhispania, that me and the lad, took on as a renovation. I'ts about all finished now bar a couple of bits to do, only I've hit a problem with the Ignition wiring, theres 6 tabs on the back of the ignition, and 4 wires, Black, Grey, Yellow, Green, I've asked everywhere, dealorships, main agents,etc but nope, the wiring diagram I have only shows two wires going into the ignition.I'm hoping that there might just be the chance that somebody reading this may have an idea of knowing what goes where, as I've tried putting wires where I think they go, but nowt. I need to sort this out, so I can both put the headlight assembly back on, and start the bike with the key.

furiaignition.jpg

furiawd.jpg

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'm at the end of my tether, as the subject says, and I can get on with getting the DT back on the go.Cheers in advance, Nev

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  • Moderator

What positions does the ignition have that have electrics?

On off park lights etc

If just on and off it would just be an earth through it.

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What positions does the ignition have that have electrics?

On off park lights etc

If just on and off it would just be an earth through it.

I think this is what you mean, as theres nothing on the ignition itself as to settings.

Just took some pics of lock

22061926.jpg

10 O'CLOCK,Off position no keys

78945671.jpg

10 O'CLOCK, OFF POSITION, KEY IN

94177907.jpg

12 O'CLOCK, ON FIRST TURN TO RIGHT,

64925991.jpg

2 O'CLOCK, 2ND TURN TO RIGHT, PRESUMABLY FOR THE LIGHTS?

Cheers Nev

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Ok. So off, on and something else (maybe side or parking light). Is/does the key come out at 2O/c?

Next get the switch and draw up a matrix so;

P1 P2 P3 along the top

and down the side write;

1/2

1/3

1/4

1/5

1/6

2/3

2/4

2/5

2/6

3/4

3/5

3/6

4/5

4/6

5/6

which are all the permutations. then test each one for continuity so p1 on the key and see if there is a circuit between tabs 1 and 2. Work down the list and then do the same for P2 and then P3.

After that see which wires are live.

Can you start the bike at the moment without the key?

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So looking at the drawing green is the live, black is the earth out and yellow is the lights. Not sure about Grey at the moment. The bike should start with the wires not touching. touch black and green and the bike should stop. Run a fused line or bulb across the green and yellow to see if the lights work. An old indicator is good for this. One wire from the indicator to the green and yellow. The bike may have to be running and make sure the bulb voltage is correct so 6v or 12v whatever the bike is.

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Ok. So off, on and something else (maybe side or parking light). Is/does the key come out at 2O/c?

Next get the switch and draw up a matrix so;

P1 P2 P3 along the top

and down the side write;

1/2

1/3

1/4

1/5

1/6

2/3

2/4

2/5

2/6

3/4

3/5

3/6

4/5

4/6

5/6

which are all the permutations. then test each one for continuity so p1 on the key and see if there is a circuit between tabs 1 and 2. Work down the list and then do the same for P2 and then P3.

After that see which wires are live.

Can you start the bike at the moment without the key?

The key goes in, and comes out at 10 o'clock,

I could start the bike without the key, as the green wire that was in the CDI was swapped with a wire going to a switch then earth to stop the engine, I've since replaced this wire with the original wire, (green) going into the CDI.

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At 10 O/c yes but what about 2 O/c? this would determine if the grey is parking lights or not. Have a look at my earlier post about wire colours. as black/green off. green isolated on. green/yellow on and lights. that leaves the grey I would guess.

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So looking at the drawing green is the live, black is the earth out and yellow is the lights. Not sure about Grey at the moment. The bike should start with the wires not touching. touch black and green and the bike should stop. Run a fused line or bulb across the green and yellow to see if the lights work. An old indicator is good for this. One wire from the indicator to the green and yellow. The bike may have to be running and make sure the bulb voltage is correct so 6v or 12v whatever the bike is.

Much appreciated for taking some time and thought on this,DDT, cheers, I'll give it a go tomorrow. Am still vague as to which tabs the wires actually go to on the back of the ignition mind, or am I just being thick?

Just realised, me being thick. I've gotta go thru the permetations.

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Thats why you need to test the switch using the matrix and use the appropriate tags. so, for example, when the switch is off you need to find the 2 tags that have continuity. The plan is to find the tag that in P1 has continuity, at P2 doesn't have any continuity (or not used)and in P3 has continuity with a different tag to P1. This is the green tag.

Then green and P1 continuity is the black wire and P3 and continuity is the yellow wire.

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This is what my TS wiring is like at the moment..................... Not my work I hasten to add :blink:

normal_SAM_0042.jpg

normal_SAM_0013.jpg

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Thats why you need to test the switch using the matrix and use the appropriate tags. so, for example, when the switch is off you need to find the 2 tags that have continuity. The plan is to find the tag that in P1 has continuity, at P2 doesn't have any continuity (or not used)and in P3 has continuity with a different tag to P1. This is the green tag.

Then green and P1 continuity is the black wire and P3 and continuity is the yellow wire.

Got ya ta, missus reckons I now resemble that crazy hyena from the lion king, cheers lol!!

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Got ya ta, missus reckons I now resemble that crazy hyena from the lion king, cheers lol!!

:lol: :lol: :lol: It can get you like that.

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