Moderator Airhead Posted February 21, 2013 Moderator Posted February 21, 2013 Nice work mate Oohh that old seal does look a bit fubared and the new one...well thats just minty innit The vid doesnt work for me ...damn! DT back in retirement TTR and Bandit both fixed
dt502001 Posted February 21, 2013 Posted February 21, 2013 Well you got it before it went BANG, them dam pesky crank seals in 2t
Moderator DirtyDT Posted February 21, 2013 Author Moderator Posted February 21, 2013 Nice work mate Oohh that old seal does look a bit fubared and the new one...well thats just minty innit The vid doesnt work for me ...damn! DT back in retirement TTR and Bandit both fixed It was rock hard and came out very easily. I forgot to load the mp4 version of the video so it may work for you now. Well you got it before it went BANG, them dam pesky crank seals in 2t It was the one that was in the bike at Squires so it coped with a 100 mile each way trip but it was a bit stupid of me to be honest.
blackhat250 Posted February 21, 2013 Posted February 21, 2013 have you tried spraying easystart Xs 400"s had this as standard in toolkit... , Newman , them pulse coils etc look brand new,,,,
Moderator DirtyDT Posted February 21, 2013 Author Moderator Posted February 21, 2013 Newman , them pulse coils etc look brand new,,,, I was surprised just how clean the whole plate and coils were.
Moderator drewpy Posted February 22, 2013 Moderator Posted February 22, 2013 Xs 400"s had this as standard in toolkit... , Newman , them pulse coils etc look brand new,,,, Puncture apart, my bike has yet to break down since 2006. stick that in yer pipes and smoke it
Moderator DirtyDT Posted February 23, 2013 Author Moderator Posted February 23, 2013 Took the TS out for it's first run with the new crank seal. Some side roads, a few twisties and a little duel carriageway and it runs a million times better. I may go one size up on the main jet. Here it is at Nanpantan.
Moderator Airhead Posted February 23, 2013 Moderator Posted February 23, 2013 Great news DDT shes looking good so what do the Nanpantan natives do with the tree's?
Moderator DirtyDT Posted February 23, 2013 Author Moderator Posted February 23, 2013 ........so what do the Nanpantan natives do with the tree's? Err.....................................collect them. I don't know to be honest, part of the National Trust land down the road. Really happy with the way she went. Just seems a little short of fuel at the top end. 150 MJ in it She was happy to redline out of top gear and push to 60 - 70 MPH indicated.
blackhat250 Posted February 23, 2013 Posted February 23, 2013 Lovely job D,dt, striking colour, glad the surging has been cured, i"v done both my Ts250 seals , the gearbox side is behind the main bearing, , so thats an engine split,,
neversaydie Posted February 23, 2013 Posted February 23, 2013 How did you get the seal out, self tapper/screwdriver/seal hookThe bike looks in great shape, is it a weekend only/special occaision ride, with the SV doing the donkey work?
Moderator DirtyDT Posted February 24, 2013 Author Moderator Posted February 24, 2013 Lovely job D,dt, striking colour, glad the surging has been cured, i"v done both my Ts250 seals , the gearbox side is behind the main bearing, , so thats an engine split,, Cheers Blackhat. The R/H seal is an engine split, which is a pain but the bearing is lubed by the gearbox oil while the L/H bearing is lubed by the 2 stroke oil. Genius piece of engineering. . How did you get the seal out, self tapper/screwdriver/seal hook The bike looks in great shape, is it a weekend only/special occaision ride, with the SV doing the donkey work? Self tappers are the de facto method but all I did with this one was to check how loose it was by using a screwdriver hit with a hammer. It was rock hard but loose so I could easily price it out with the point of an electrical tester, making sure not to damage the ali surrounding it. Used a block of wood to tap the new one in after a good clean. It is a s**t or bust job. once you have started on it, it has to come out. The biggest worry is that someone used a liquid sealant of some type the last time it was done as this can make an easy job, painful. The bike has not really been used due to running like a pig. The engine in it is a spare and I have not rebuilt it. The original engine is stripped ready for a rebuild. This has meant that the bike has not really been used. It came off the road in 1995 and sat in a blokes garage until I brought it a couple of years ago. It has done under 300 miles since then; MOT station and back; Squires and back and: work and back once. So since 1995 to today the total is under 300 miles ridden. I will use it more now it seems to be running better. Still a little tidying to do. I just need to see if my addition of a regulator has cured the battery and bulb blowing issues, replace a few bulbs and respray the exhaust and it should be ready to go. If this is the case it means I can rebuild the original engine at leisure and start to strip the YA6 ready for this next years Squires.
Moderator Airhead Posted February 24, 2013 Moderator Posted February 24, 2013 It'll make the journey to work on a nice spring day better thats for sure,
Moderator DirtyDT Posted February 24, 2013 Author Moderator Posted February 24, 2013 True Paul. The high revs were handy though.................sort of cruise control
Moderator DirtyDT Posted May 5, 2013 Author Moderator Posted May 5, 2013 Thought I would throw the TS back to the top of the project section - for a while at least. Not had much of a chance to ride the bike recently. Still had that top end bogging down issue. Earlier in the week I ripped off the carb and fitted a 210 Main Jet. Replaced the air filter with a new piece of foam and gave it some 2 stoke oil rather than the spay oil I had tried and replaced the foam seal in the airbox with some closed cell foam off fleabay. Put another new battery in it as the one I had was only 2 amps not 4. The regulator seems to have stopped the battery boiling problems though. Brought a Ctek 6v charger - very impressed. I haven't had a chance to take it on a decent run yet but I am back at work on Tuesday so hopefully I can give it a 40 odd mile return journey run then.
Moderator DirtyDT Posted May 7, 2013 Author Moderator Posted May 7, 2013 At the risk of tempting fate. Rode the TS to work this morning. Took about a mile to have a clear out and then started to rev free all the way through the rev range. Pushed it to an indicated 70 and wasn't close to the start of the red line. Only 15 miles so far but I have to shoot across town in a bit so will get around 45 miles on it today by the time I get home later. Assuming it doesn't blow up on me. I will check the plug once at home to see how it did. Still needs a little work on the tickover so may tinker with the pilot screw a bit. Pretty happy with it though - at the moment. 1
UK_DT Posted May 15, 2013 Posted May 15, 2013 Is poor running (such as described in previous posts and the same as I have with my DT) MORE likely to be caused by the LH crank seal than the right hand one?I ask as it's obviously easier to get at and replace the LH seal than to drain the transmission oil, remove oil pump, etc. to do the RH side.
Moderator DirtyDT Posted May 15, 2013 Author Moderator Posted May 15, 2013 Left hand seals are behind the generator and can suck in air making the bike run lean. Right hand seals are in the same area as the clutch and normally suck in gearbox oil as it should be air tight. Common fault with an old seal and less than an hour to change. Very cheap to eliminate as they are only a few quid.
blackhat250 Posted May 15, 2013 Posted May 15, 2013 Sounds good Dirty" i"v dropped to 195 main jet, better now too, Was bogging on W.O.Trottle on 210 jet. i have a slight knocking on excelaration, like detonation, its smooth at cruise speed, and ok if gentle throttle openings,,,timing maybe,, it on the mark, [ cdi] , R/h crank seal on TS250 is behind the main bearing, r/h bearing is lubed in gearbox oil, this explains only 1 oil feed to L/h bearing, ingenious , but a pig if seal needs changed,,
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