Moderator DirtyDT Posted June 3, 2011 Author Moderator Posted June 3, 2011 Cheers OG. Would a wrapped pair of stilsons do it? If not I will get a pipe vice.
Moderator Airhead Posted June 3, 2011 Moderator Posted June 3, 2011 Cheers OG. Would a wrapped pair of stilsons do it? If not I will get a pipe vice. dont 'get one' just go somewhere who has one. I'm sure they wont mind you using it. stilsons may or may not work...still a 2 point grip and even narrower than a vise. The rattle gun is a good suggestion too...thay can be pneumatic or electric. Just dont want to see you damage it mate although it's not like I have experience of this or even that i've heard of them damaged in such a way
barkwindjammer Posted June 3, 2011 Posted June 3, 2011 WHOA HORSIE definately not stilsons m8, they will bite through whatever you use to wrap the tube in, if you have a chamioux leather-dampen it, wrap that around the tube near the big nut, wrap a leather trooser belt (2 or 3 is better) around that-now pass the 'tails' of the belt into the vice, try to get the tube as close to the jaws as poss-an old farmers trick that Arrr
Moderator DirtyDT Posted June 3, 2011 Author Moderator Posted June 3, 2011 :lol: OK guys. Stilsons are last on the list. I will have a go at BWJ's bondage farmers trick first and then try and find someone who has a pipe vice and rattle gun. Update: Just read an article on the interwab that says loosen the top cap in the yolks so they will be partially resembled tomorrow to see if that works.
Moderator Airhead Posted June 3, 2011 Moderator Posted June 3, 2011 oi loiks thaart oidear EDTT: For maximum grip the belt needs to be wound in a clockwise direction when viewed from the opposite end to the tube cap in question (for unscrewing)
barkwindjammer Posted June 3, 2011 Posted June 3, 2011 My 'owl Da' worked for Caterpillar and Terex-used to do lots of 'homers'-saw him doing this to save the surface on hydraulic rams, you know when you wrap thread tape onto a fitting and it has to be 'wound' in a certain direction ?-well this applies here, as you turn against the rod/ram/cylinder the chamioux tries to unwind, and as there is only a small triangular space left where the belts go into the vice, it gets tighter, the rod needs to be spotless too -meths
Moderator DirtyDT Posted June 3, 2011 Author Moderator Posted June 3, 2011 Cheers guys. I am going to try the tubes in yolks first and if that doesn't work, use the "bondage" trick. My 'owl Da' worked for Caterpillar and Terex-used ................. Wow BWJ, your dad used to work for T Rex! I love that band.
barkwindjammer Posted June 3, 2011 Posted June 3, 2011 Here is a highly technical drawing wot I did wiv crayons an that to illistr illusrtat show you what am toknaboot
barkwindjammer Posted June 3, 2011 Posted June 3, 2011 Yer Paul, that would be great on a solid rod like a hydraulic ram, I wouldn't clamp a tube in a vice though the tube should sit 'a top' the jaws-not in them
Moderator Airhead Posted June 3, 2011 Moderator Posted June 3, 2011 Neither would I, you misunderstand me. pull the two ends of the belt down betwwn the jaws, the tube rests on top with the wound belt, then tighten, gives a much bigger friction area than one pass It is important to wind the belt the correct way for undoing the nut as I said before.
barkwindjammer Posted June 3, 2011 Posted June 3, 2011 Ahhh, right I see it now, couldn't determine that from your rubbish technical drawing Paul
Moderator Airhead Posted June 3, 2011 Moderator Posted June 3, 2011 Ahhh, right I see it now, couldn't determine that from your rubbish technical drawing Paul
Moderator DirtyDT Posted June 4, 2011 Author Moderator Posted June 4, 2011 Now now you two................. I tried the belt method. No go. I put the fork back into the yolk, positioned lower down the fork so that the cap was not pinching the cap. It holds fine so I strapped it to the bike stand to stop it moving but I still can not get the cap to turn. The biggest 1/2 drive bar I have is a wheel brace extendible one however, it comes out at an angle and I can't use my, considerable, weight on it . I have just ordered a 600mm 1/2 inch breaker bar so I will try that to see if the cap or the joint breaks first.
NEV Posted June 4, 2011 Posted June 4, 2011 Now now you two................. I tried the belt method. No go. I put the fork back into the yolk, positioned lower down the fork so that the cap was not pinching the cap. It holds fine so I strapped it to the bike stand to stop it moving but I still can not get the cap to turn. The biggest 1/2 drive bar I have is a wheel brace extendible one however, it comes out at an angle and I can't use my, considerable, weight on it . I have just ordered a 600mm 1/2 inch breaker bar so I will try that to see if the cap or the joint breaks first. I take it you've tried a 1/2" drive torque wrench (long handled) plus tubing, or a 1/2" long handled wrench with an extending tube to add a bit more torque? Just a thought Nev.
Moderator DirtyDT Posted June 4, 2011 Author Moderator Posted June 4, 2011 Cheers NEV, I don't have a 1/2 inch wrench (hence me ordering the breaker bar) and I tend to use 3/8 sockets so my torque wrench is 3/8 also. I wouldn't really want to use it for this job as it will ruin it I will wait for the breaker bar to turn up. I still have the swingarm bolt to saw through, and that is just the start, so I will be busy. Just a little frustrated so watching the England v Swiss game.
NEV Posted June 4, 2011 Posted June 4, 2011 Cheers NEV, I don't have a 1/2 inch wrench (hence me ordering the breaker bar) and I tend to use 3/8 sockets so my torque wrench is 3/8 also. I wouldn't really want to use it for this job as it will ruin it I will wait for the breaker bar to turn up. I still have the swingarm bolt to saw through, and that is just the start, so I will be busy. Just a little frustrated so watching the England v Swiss game. Aye, I understand your predicament now, just thought you may have over looked your torque wrench being 1/2", must admit I can't remember when I last saw a 3/8" torque wrench mind, as for the swing arm bolt, mine was exactly the same as yours seized solid, I took the guard off my grinderette, banged in a 1.5mm NEW cutting disk,(so as to get full cutting depth) there was just enough room to cut through the bolt,had to sacrifice the end caps on the bushes mind,in doing it this way. Anyroad, good luck with the project mate. P.S If you decide to go with your hacksaw, you'll probably find you'll need a stainless steel cutting hacksaw blade as I'm sure its a High Tensile bolt, very similar in hardness to stainless, and by just using a normal blade for mild steel, you'll be at it for a week of Sundays, and I dare say get through a few blades.
Moderator DirtyDT Posted June 4, 2011 Author Moderator Posted June 4, 2011 :lol: The end caps, seals and "top hats" will be changed anyway. I was hoped to salvage the bolt and the 3 spacers but that was before I started cutting . It's going to be expensive. I was just using the blades I had. I will go off and get some tomorrow but decided that as nothing was budging I would have a chill day.
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