MrBrady Posted May 3, 2011 Posted May 3, 2011 Good evening, Long story short I was very fortunate earlier tonight when my clutch cable snapped while I was riding. Luckily I was only going very slowly in peak hour traffic and was able to get off the road and to a service station. I have the workshop manual for the bike (1981 XS 250) but it doesn't tell me how to just change the cable. I know it's the cable (and not something more sinister) because I can see where it snapped right up the top at the lever. The only mention I've found about the cable at the engine end is this: "Remove the five screws which hold the final drive sprocket casing to the left-hand side of the engine. Pull the casing out until it is clear of the gearchange shaft. The clutch cable must be disconnected from the operating arm inside the case before the casing is completely free. Take care not to lose small steel ball which lies between the inner face of the clutch lifting mechanism and the clutch pushrod, in the centre of the mainshaft." This is in the section for removing the entire engine from the frame, at step #11. Here's my questions: 1. Has anyone here done this before in Brisbane Australia who might be able to answer some phone questions tomorrow the 4th May? 2. Is it something that a moderately mechanically minded person could do without having seen it before? 3. Am I likely to need to drain the oil first? (this is mentioned in the manual but as part of the steps for removing the ENTIRE engine from the frame) 4. Are there any noobish mistakes I need to be careful not to make? I hope you can help me! Thanks, MrBrady
Moderator mervin Posted May 3, 2011 Moderator Posted May 3, 2011 1 ,Sorry in devon england so not really any help too you in aus 2, yes it is summat the average mechanically minded person should be able too do, 3/4,I have a feeling this is very similar too the Rd setup, so no need to drain oil, one tip as when you pull the old cable out tie a piece of string to it so you can pull the new one back without having to remove fuel tank etc, there should be a smaller cover on the casing giving you access to the adjuster screw and it,s lock nut, when you have fitted the cable and replaced the sprocket cover remove this cover, then screw the clutch adjuster on the handlebar right in as far as it will go, then undo the lock nut on the adjuster in the casing screw the adjuster in until it just touches the pushrod then back off a 1/4 of a turn hold the screw with a screwdriver and nip up the lock nut, then adjust the handlebar adjuster to give you 5 mm of free play on the lever merv
Moderator drewpy Posted May 3, 2011 Moderator Posted May 3, 2011 as merv said, but you need to remove the final drive cover to unhook the cable. The black "plug" needs jemmying out with a flat bladed scewdriver. Gives you a chance to clean all the crud, check the front sprocket and the charging wires for damage! make sure the cable has the easiest path to ensure its smooth operation. I just fitted a new one last week and it was so light in operation as opposed to the old one.
MrBrady Posted May 3, 2011 Author Posted May 3, 2011 Well I can't get the part locally - I have to wait for one to arrive from Sydney via express post so I can't attempt the repair until tomorrow.
MrBrady Posted May 6, 2011 Author Posted May 6, 2011 Fixed! The new cable arrived on Friday morning and all went smoothly. Thanks for the advice guys! The next thing I'm wondering about is cleaning out underneath that cover that I had to take off. It was DISGUSTING in there... mud, twigs, leaves, who knows what else? It was covering everything including all the electrical cables!
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