Jump to content

DT 175 MX Rebuild/Electrics


philmountains
This post is 4931 days old and we'd rather you create a new post instead of adding to this one. You can't reply in this post.

Recommended Posts

No mate I dont use mine in the dark on unlit roads, dont expect much even if it is 12v. My DTR is 12v and a simillar setup, ie headlamp straight from magneto, kinda glows different shades of orange for different engine speeds :huh:

You would have thought that there would be some way of upgrading this prob with new lamps/relay etc. once up to 12v more options scrap parts ? going to keep my ear to the ground/nose in the scrap pile B)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you want an ad-free experience? Join today and help support the Yamaha Owners Club.
  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi Phil,

I must confess I'm very pleased with my 12v Conversion of my MX.

As you've just read it you'll see I've added that I've recently upgraded the headlight to 45w and its clearly a lot brighter, I appreciate its a lot less bright at low speed i.e stopped at the lights, but thats so far not been a problem, Once you're off its bright enough, not as bright as my 400/4 light, but then the diameter of the Hondas headlight is a lot bigger and a few inches lower which clearly makes a difference.

I won't be converting the bike back to 6v thats for sure. B)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderator

You would have thought that there would be some way of upgrading this prob with new lamps/relay etc. once up to 12v more options scrap parts ? going to keep my ear to the ground/nose in the scrap pile B)

I bought a new headlight from Yambits which has a better patern on the glass with a new bulb, rode mine through plenty of dark without problems. I live out in the boonies and have a 6 mile trip to work, all of which is unlit bar the last half mile on the estate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/YAMAHA-DT175MX-DT175-DT-MX-FRONT-BRAKE-LIGHT-SWITCH-/220783641319?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3367bb02e7

Remember I asked you if you had a new loom? you said no its a 4J3 loom, well the bad news is thats the wrong loom, its a DT125MX loom from a later version to yours I think. No wonder things dont match up.

so how did you come to have that and what happened to the original? :unsure:

http://cgi.ebay.de/Yamaha-DT-125-MX-Haupt-Kabelbaum-Wiring-4J3-82590-40-/140517010991?pt=Motorrad_Kraftradteile&hash=item20b7776e2f

Been looking on ebay earlier for wiring looms for my dt, theres a seller on there called Yuniparts, based in Derby, making old school wiring looms, not one for mine unfortunately, but price looks good at £50 quid new compared to Yamaha at £150

Here have a butchers http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/YAMAHA-DT175-Type-1G1-WIRING-LOOM-HARNESS-1976-7-QH024-/150487973850?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2309c83fda.

Hope this helps.

Oh and oldgitonabike, if you could make one up for mine and the price was right I'd be very interested mate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Going a bit of subject has anyone used the 2.5 mm aluminiun STICK welding rods as have some repairs to do on barrel only ever welded aluminium with Tig and this was years ago!!!! :o and was bloody difficult,I did not realy have the knack of it " I once was a coded gas and arc welder, ,also bent fins any advise ?

Yes mate You can weld with aluminium sticks but you'll need a dc plant ie Lincoln generator, and then you need to reverse the polarities, also you'll need to know the percentage of aluminium in barrel, to know if it can be welded successfully,hope this helps. Nev asme19, lloyds 4871/2

Link to comment
Share on other sites

:question::huh:

lol sorry ogoab have I got you confused with someone else on here who made up their own wiring harness, it's late am tired.

Edit: Aye just read it was Cynic,made his own harness.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

member 'speedshop' makes looms on a professional basis.

:rolleyes::rolleyes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Going a bit of subject has anyone used the 2.5 mm aluminiun STICK welding rods as have some repairs to do on barrel only ever welded aluminium with Tig and this was years ago!!!! :o and was bloody difficult,I did not realy have the knack of it " I once was a coded gas and arc welder, ,also bent fins any advise ?

Yes mate You can weld with aluminium sticks but you'll need a dc plant ie Lincoln generator, and then you need to reverse the polarities, also you'll need to know the percentage of aluminium in barrel, to know if it can be welded successfully,hope this helps. Nev asme19, lloyds 4871/2

Well that buggers that then,even big old welder(Triangle They built subs with them in WW2 :lol: ) at work is AC,,and I was hoping to do it at home on my little 140amp clark so that head is poss out as to get it repaired ££££££ looks like I might be getting back in the welding game soon :huh: lets hope "Camm" will pay for some tickets for me :lol: asme 19 ! jammy bugger who paid for that is 12mths ? when I was a lad it was asme 9, still have my Millwalky hat you know bit weather beaten now though ,poss would catch summat like poor old Fred Dibbner :o

what about the bent fins anyone had ago how hard to snap ? pre heat ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good manual for the money

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/YAMAHA-DT175-DT100-DT125-LT2-CT2-HAYNES-MANUAL-/220786495350?pt=UK_CarParts_Vehicles_Manuals_Litterature_ET&hash=item3367e68f76

Thanks Paul spotted it the other day .have you seen the newly listed 1979 dt175 MX http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?VISuperSize&item=110688678145 not too sure about unrestored ,thought they changed over sides for oil tank later ? still looks bloody nice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Been looking on ebay earlier for wiring looms for my dt, theres a seller on there called Yuniparts, based in Derby, making old school wiring looms, not one for mine unfortunately, but price looks good at £50 quid new compared to Yamaha at £150

Here have a butchers http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/YAMAHA-DT175-Type-1G1-WIRING-LOOM-HARNESS-1976-7-QH024-/150487973850?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2309c83fda.

Hope this helps.

Oh and oldgitonabike, if you could make one up for mine and the price was right I'd be very interested mate.

Nev this is my get out of S!!!T option,end off the day only wires ,how hard can it be :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Phil,

I must confess I'm very pleased with my 12v Conversion of my MX.

As you've just read it you'll see I've added that I've recently upgraded the headlight to 45w and its clearly a lot brighter, I appreciate its a lot less bright at low speed i.e stopped at the lights, but thats so far not been a problem, Once you're off its bright enough, not as bright as my 400/4 light, but then the diameter of the Hondas headlight is a lot bigger and a few inches lower which clearly makes a difference.

I won't be converting the bike back to 6v thats for sure. B)

Thanks NEO for all your work/posts ,as said just bought new bits, isnt it always the case after the horse has bolted but will def be into your solution.

all the best Phil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking at your earlier photos, I see your bike has the round tube swinging arm, so I assume is an early DT175MX i.e 1978-1979 (mines registered 79 but is a 78 model which Paul helped me to understand)

However, knowing YOUR luck and that you've got the wrong loom it would be funny if you've got a early swinging arm on a later frame :lol:

wiring looms for both the round tube and the later square tube are available. i know 'cos I bought one!

Yuniparts do the earlier loom for the Earlier round tube 1978 2K4

2K4 = engine/chassis number 2K4-000101 onwards. feb 78 into 79

and it also fits

2X2 = engine/chassis number 2K4-010101 onwards. during 79 only

as the wiring diagram is the same in the Haynes manual ISBN 85010 300 3

QH034 click here

and Yambits do the later looms 4J4 with the Later square tube.

4J4 = engine/chassis number 2K4-020101 onwards. 1980 to feb 85

click here

I purchased mine from Yuniparts, the looms become available periodically or you could email them.

I swapped mine only a few weeks ago AFTER my 12v conversion.

N.B these ebay Links might be invalid if you're viewing this post after july2011 They only last a few months after they have been active

Link to comment
Share on other sites

":lol: asme 19 ! jammy bugger who paid for that is 12mths ? when I was a lad it was asme 9,"

OK, ok, I was trying to be clever and do it in roman numerals (1X), as is meant to be,and it came out 19.

Anyroad you got the main franchise for typo's, or what?

" still have my "Millwalky" hat" ;)

Only asmeIX lads were allowed to wear chromers, it were dried sweat soaked leather skull cap, for mere wire layers, lol.

Good luck on your wiring btw.Must say I have a bit of a dilemna coming up myself, for when it comes to sorting out my 82'xt, as I want to keep it as pretty much standard as possible,as it's number 7 off the production line, but do I go 6v or change to 12v, hmmmmm.

Oh aye, your barrel instead of welding, is it a crack? try looking at liquid metal, we used to use many moons ago some stuff called Belzona, came in two small kettle drum shaped containers, very good stuff.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Phil, re wiring loom, just had a chap round who's an auto electrician,and has helped me on stuff in the past, shown him the wiring diagram, and the old loom, he reckons he can make me up a new one,no problem, so he's gone off to work out how much, and will be letting me know in the next few days,only trouble is in the past he charges by the hour, and to be honest I've seen more movement in a glass eye, but he is good, I'll let you know how much, and if you're o.k with prices I'll put you on to him. Hope this helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"Nev this is my get out of S!!!T option,end off the day only wires ,how hard can it be"

Aye and a wedding cake is just flour and eggs!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderator

There are hardly enough differences to split them anyway. Unless you replace ALL the electrics on your bike for a specific build speck then things will never go straight on.

These bikes were built 30years ago, production of electrical systems on vehicles was hardly state of the art. The cdi was a massive move foreward. You will always have odd plugs and spurious connectors in there, even the new looms will have links and such missing. More disturbingly the original loom has crimps internally, i took those out when i rewired mine.

Just work through it patiently the wiring on these old girls is by no means complex.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


×
×
  • Create New...