tez73 Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 Hi i was going to check valve settings and cant remove tank as bolt is stuck. it is turning in the nut thats fixed under the bracket ok but not going any further out, any ideas? terry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted April 8, 2011 Moderator Share Posted April 8, 2011 Hi i was going to check valve settings and cant remove tank as bolt is stuck. it is turning in the nut thats fixed under the bracket ok but not going any further out, any ideas? terry damaged thread on the bolt. Can you use a spanner on the boltto turn it and at the same time put a flat screwdriver under the bolt head to lever up the bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tez73 Posted April 8, 2011 Author Share Posted April 8, 2011 damaged thread on the bolt. Can you use a spanner on the boltto turn it and at the same time put a flat screwdriver under the bolt head to lever up the bolt. thats done it mate thanks for the top tip, your a star! u were right thread was shagged dont know if i will trust putting a replacement bolt in though? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted April 8, 2011 Moderator Share Posted April 8, 2011 No sweat. Run a new bolt into the nut but do not overtighten to try and recover the nut thread or use a smaller gauge nut and bolt with a washer on each end. Do not run the bike without the tank firmly fixed. If it goes over the tank could come off, spilling fuel and maybe igniting from the exhaust. I wouldn't want a hot bike on me with the fuel glunking out over me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tez73 Posted April 8, 2011 Author Share Posted April 8, 2011 No sweat. Run a new bolt into the nut but do not overtighten to try and recover the nut thread or use a smaller gauge nut and bolt with a washer on each end. Do not run the bike without the tank firmly fixed. If it goes over the tank could come off, spilling fuel and maybe igniting from the exhaust. I wouldn't want a hot bike on me with the fuel glunking out over me! thanks again mate will try it tomorrow and let you know thanks again, terry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tez73 Posted April 8, 2011 Author Share Posted April 8, 2011 thanks again mate will try it tomorrow and let you know thanks again, terry. have taken bike apart but this is my first time adjusting tappets, on manual its hard to say is it the gap betweeen top of spring and the bottom of the adjusting nut does anyone know? did all other steps in manual up to there correctley!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted April 8, 2011 Moderator Share Posted April 8, 2011 Back in the day when I had 4 strokes the adjuster went through one end of the rocker arm and pusshed down on the valve stem, the gap was set between the adjuster (tappet) and the valve stem and then the little locknut done up afterwards. This has to be done at definite pionts on the engines rotation and may co-incide with marks on the flywheel rotor. of course since then many bikes have moved to shims for adjustment...never done one of those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tez73 Posted April 8, 2011 Author Share Posted April 8, 2011 Back in the day when I had 4 strokes the adjuster went through one end of the rocker arm and pusshed down on the valve stem, the gap was set between the adjuster (tappet) and the valve stem and then the little locknut done up afterwards. This has to be done at definite pionts on the engines rotation and may co-incide with marks on the flywheel rotor. of course since then many bikes have moved to shims for adjustment...never done one of those. its not difficult to do put crank arm to mark on crank worse thing was getting allen bolts off dont think its been done for years as they were all rusted up. used to have a new aprilia rs but sold it after a couple of years total nightmare electrics tempremental to say the least and expensive to look after, had older nsr 125 before that which was a bit more robust!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted April 8, 2011 Moderator Share Posted April 8, 2011 Back in the day when I had 4 strokes the adjuster went through one end of the rocker arm and pushed down on the valve stem, the gap was set between the adjuster (tappet) and the valve stem and then the little locknut done up afterwards. This has to be done at definite pionts on the engines rotation and may co-inside with marks on the flywheel rotor. of course since then many bikes have moved to shims for adjustment...never done one of those. I can't find the 125 but on the 250 OG is right. If it is the same, look at items 12 and 13 (there are 2 of each) on this link HERE 13 is a nut to stop 12 moving so you release 13 and then adjust 12 until the gap between the bottom of the screw and the top of the tappets (1 & 2) is correct according to the manual. One tappet will be exhaust and one will be inlet. When the gaps (and they may be different) are correct you tighten down numbers 13 so 12 can not move. this MUST be done when the crank is in certain positions. You CANNOT do this at any point. Notice the Capitalised words. the gaps have to be correct when the tappets are at their widest and this will be marked somewhere on the engine. It is not difficult but getting this wrong can bend the tappets or cause other MAJOR damage to the engine. If in doubt, leave alone or get a mate who knows what they are doing to show you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted April 8, 2011 Moderator Share Posted April 8, 2011 Interesting reading LINKY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tez73 Posted April 8, 2011 Author Share Posted April 8, 2011 I can't find the 125 but on the 250 OG is right. If it is the same, look at items 12 and 13 (there are 2 of each) on this link HERE 13 is a nut to stop 12 moving so you release 13 and then adjust 12 until the gap between the bottom of the screw and the top of the tappets (1 & 2) is correct according to the manual. One tappet will be exhaust and one will be inlet. When the gaps (and they may be different) are correct you tighten down numbers 13 so 12 can not move. this MUST be done when the crank is in certain positions. You CANNOT do this at any point. Notice the Capitalised words. the gaps have to be correct when the tappets are at their widest and this will be marked somewhere on the engine. It is not difficult but getting this wrong can bend the tappets or cause other MAJOR damage to the engine. If in doubt, leave alone or get a mate who knows what they are doing to show you. they look different mate it looks like the adjusters on the other side on these, have just found picture in another manual and at the directly at top of the spring is the adjuster and nutand it shows a spanner adjusting this so we were moving in right direction just in an arse - about- face kind of way which is me allover! but thanks for going the extra mile for me mate is a massive help when you get quick replys otherwise you can quickly disappear up youre batty. thanks to dirty dt too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted April 8, 2011 Moderator Share Posted April 8, 2011 ....................................otherwise you can quickly disappear up youre batty.................. Don't fancy that much......................I know what I eat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tez73 Posted April 8, 2011 Author Share Posted April 8, 2011 Don't fancy that much......................I know what I eat boom boom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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