deerider Posted March 1, 2011 Posted March 1, 2011 howdy ive had a ybr custom (10 plate) for a few months, loving the joy that is two wheels intensely! unfortunately got a puncture the other day so ive had to take the wheel off and get a new one, Incredibly noobish request but when i put the wheel back on (its the rear one), im not sure exactly what i need to do with the rear brake cable and chain with regards to tightnesses etc, is there anything specific i need to do before riding once its all rebuilt? ive got some figuress in the manual but is there anything specific i need to do aside from putting everything back as it was? I would get it fitted by the dealer but i cant afford it. again sorry for the incredible noobality i just ache to ride again as soon as possible
nayruf Posted March 1, 2011 Posted March 1, 2011 howdy ive had a ybr custom (10 plate) for a few months, loving the joy that is two wheels intensely! unfortunately got a puncture the other day so ive had to take the wheel off and get a new one, Incredibly noobish request but when i put the wheel back on (its the rear one), im not sure exactly what i need to do with the rear brake cable and chain with regards to tightnesses etc, is there anything specific i need to do before riding once its all rebuilt? ive got some figuress in the manual but is there anything specific i need to do aside from putting everything back as it was? I would get it fitted by the dealer but i cant afford it. again sorry for the incredible noobality i just ache to ride again as soon as possible Hi Your request makes me unsure how to answer for the best because the tone of the question leaves me thinking that you might not have the mechanical skills/tools needed to re-fit the wheel, so sorry if you are a mechanical genius and I am talking out of my arse. I would get my self a manual and fully read the section on the removal and re-fit of the wheels, they are about 19 quid for a Haynes. Assuming that you put all the components back in the same order/positions, ie any spacers correctly fitted so that the rear wheel sprocket is in direct line with the gearbox sprocket and the chain runs from sprocket to sprocket in a straight line, I adjust my chain on my DT by tightening the chain adjusters equally so that there is a total of 20 to 30 mm deflection up and down from the chains centre on the bottom run 10 to 15 mm each way, I then sit on the bike and allow for my body weight to ensure that the chain does not get too tight or remains too slack, As a last check once the axle is fully tight look along the chain to ensure that it runs from sprocket to sprocket in a straight line. A big thing not to forget Is to remember to tighten the brake torque arm because it will need to be loose to allow for the chain to be correctly tensioned, When it comes to the brake adjustment I allow about 30 to 40 mm free pedal travel before the brake shoes fully grip the drum, and when the brake is fully applied I ensure that the brake arm is at 90 degrees to the line of pull, so that the full length of the operating arm can apply maximum torque. Please though do get a manual and do use it to ensure that the wheel is fitted correctly, Or bite the bullet and once you have fitted the wheel go straight to the nearest friendly bike shop and ask them to give it a quick look see, Hope this helps
deerider Posted March 1, 2011 Author Posted March 1, 2011 Hi Your request makes me unsure how to answer for the best because the tone of the question leaves me thinking that you might not have the mechanical skills/tools needed to re-fit the wheel, so sorry if you are a mechanical genius and I am talking out of my arse. I would get my self a manual and fully read the section on the removal and re-fit of the wheels, they are about 19 quid for a Haynes. Assuming that you put all the components back in the same order/positions, ie any spacers correctly fitted so that the rear wheel sprocket is in direct line with the gearbox sprocket and the chain runs from sprocket to sprocket in a straight line, I adjust my chain on my DT by tightening the chain adjusters equally so that there is a total of 20 to 30 mm deflection up and down from the chains centre on the bottom run 10 to 15 mm each way, I then sit on the bike and allow for my body weight to ensure that the chain does not get too tight or remains too slack, As a last check once the axle is fully tight look along the chain to ensure that it runs from sprocket to sprocket in a straight line. A big thing not to forget Is to remember to tighten the brake torque arm because it will need to be loose to allow for the chain to be correctly tensioned, When it comes to the brake adjustment I allow about 30 to 40 mm free pedal travel before the brake shoes fully grip the drum, and when the brake is fully applied I ensure that the brake arm is at 90 degrees to the line of pull, so that the full length of the operating arm can apply maximum torque. Please though do get a manual and do use it to ensure that the wheel is fitted correctly, Or bite the bullet and once you have fitted the wheel go straight to the nearest friendly bike shop and ask them to give it a quick look see, Hope this helps Ahh excellent, cheers mate. like i said im pretty inexperienced mechanically, i mean im bright enough to work out how things work and go together (im not completely incompetent )but it was just things such as the brake torque arm needing to be loose to do the chain correctly. I've decided to recruit a friend of mine who's in a mechanic course in college to oversee me doing it, and im gonna take your advice on taking it to the shop for a onceover. ta for the advice!
Moderator DirtyDT Posted March 1, 2011 Moderator Posted March 1, 2011 ...............I've decided to recruit a friend of mine who's in a mechanic course in college to oversee me doing it..................... Providing the friend is competent then this is the best way to learn. Be wary of "mechanics" who turn up with not much more than a big hammer, gaffa tape and some cheap screwdrivers.
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