Moderator Cynic Posted January 14, 2011 Moderator Share Posted January 14, 2011 I'm gutted, the TDR tank has got a leak, i thought it was the fuel tap but on investigation there was the beginings of a tiny rust blister (as i thought) put my finger to it and got petrol from it. I am in the dark here. Good TDR tanks are rarer than gold plated pearl encrusted rocking horse spu...... Any suggestions, ideally i need to keep the tank as the bike is at present almost 100% as manufactured and try to damage as little as i can with the repair although thankfully the trouble spot is behind the LH rad cowl. I am in the dark on this, never had to mess with leaky tanks so i'm all ears if anybody can help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted January 14, 2011 Moderator Share Posted January 14, 2011 Bummer thats bad luck Jason. I have never had to fix a leak but I bet Mervin knows of a good cure. I had one on my DTMX many many moons ago but I bought a new tank because I didnt know about fixing them back then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator mervin Posted January 14, 2011 Moderator Share Posted January 14, 2011 yup I would fill the hole with araldite or similar first then use, por 15 i have used it and it is good, do not on any account even try to use petseal it is complete shite and comes off in about 3 months then you will need to buy a kit too remove it and reseal at great expense Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YPVS TONE Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 Have a word with the guys at tankcareproducts.co.uk as I found them really helpful when my LC2 tank leaked and they supplied me with a sealer that is still holding but have been told that they have a new sealant to cope with the ethanol in fuel .Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted January 14, 2011 Author Moderator Share Posted January 14, 2011 yup I would fill the hole with araldite or similar first then use, por 15 i have used it and it is good, do not on any account even try to use petseal it is complete shite and comes off in about 3 months then you will need to buy a kit too remove it and reseal at great expense Nice one Merv that looks just the ticket, are they the only UK stockist as they are out of stock. I have just done a couple of searches and keep getting US suppliers, 80-90quids worth of postage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nets Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 Try to avoid any of the tank sealants as it dont work with the modern petrol we have these days, welding/brazing is pretty much the only solid repair, metal set might work on small holes more so if thay are at the top of the tank but is still not a permanet fix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted January 14, 2011 Author Moderator Share Posted January 14, 2011 Try to avoid any of the tank sealants as it dont work with the modern petrol we have these days, welding/brazing is pretty much the only solid repair, metal set might work on small holes more so if thay are at the top of the tank but is still not a permanet fix I'm willing to give them a try. Any of the lads from the squires run will attest to the original condition of my tdr, everything is original down to the mirrors . Paint match, date codes on the parts match, everything ties up. The decals even have that slight patina from being 23 years old. I just can't affect the visible part of the tank paintwork becaust it just will not be possible to match it properly especially as the stock paint isnt a flat black it has a tiny fleck to it. I don't know if its just a one off pin hole or there are hundreds of them waiting, that would mean stripping it, that means the paint is a gonner and the decals have been out of production for years. You can see people trying to copy em still on the TDR site. They look OK in isolation but they are too yellow compared to the originals and don't have a border. Gutted These sealants are my only real option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator mervin Posted January 14, 2011 Moderator Share Posted January 14, 2011 I am told this is just as good KREEM i think the secret is in the cleaning /derutsing products and this resists modern shite fuel as well it says, merv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nets Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 I'm willing to give them a try. Any of the lads from the squires run will attest to the original condition of my tdr, everything is original down to the mirrors . Paint match, date codes on the parts match, everything ties up. The decals even have that slight patina from being 23 years old. I just can't affect the visible part of the tank paintwork becaust it just will not be possible to match it properly especially as the stock paint isnt a flat black it has a tiny fleck to it. I don't know if its just a one off pin hole or there are hundreds of them waiting, that would mean stripping it, that means the paint is a gonner and the decals have been out of production for years. You can see people trying to copy em still on the TDR site. They look OK in isolation but they are too yellow compared to the originals and don't have a border. Gutted These sealants are my only real option. cautionary note to keep in mind! tank sealnts when they react to our fuel are a mega nightmare to remove Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator mervin Posted January 14, 2011 Moderator Share Posted January 14, 2011 cautionary note to keep in mind! tank sealnts when they react to our fuel are a mega nightmare to remove Not when you know how, there is something i got once for my 400 that got petseal out very easily aha option C if you have petseal already peeling in your tank tankcare products Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barkwindjammer Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 A good braze Jase new paint and 'yellow decals'--the shame of it !, I dont think this would 'spoil' a very honest bike m8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nets Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 Not when you know how, there is something i got once for my 400 that got petseal out very easily aha option C if you have petseal already peeling in your tank tankcare products was that not something they used on hankies in the films? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barkwindjammer Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 Movies ?, hankies ?, aow no,, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2 Wheels Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 I remember an old thread on here somewhere that went into good detail about cleaning a tank and then using that POR 15. Was interesting read, worth your while having a search for it Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barkwindjammer Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 This ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted January 14, 2011 Author Moderator Share Posted January 14, 2011 Reading some of the blurb, petseal is the one to avoid and doing all the prep work seems to be the key. I'll have a go with one of these ethanol resistant vertions and see what happens. If i have to batter and whatnot the tank to fix it ok. But i have got to try and save the finish if i can. Cheers people, i'm a lot more comfortable with the issue now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted January 15, 2011 Author Moderator Share Posted January 15, 2011 Have a word with the guys at tankcareproducts.co.uk as I found them really helpful when my LC2 tank leaked and they supplied me with a sealer that is still holding but have been told that they have a new sealant to cope with the ethanol in fuel .Tony I've plumped for your suggestion mate, decent fellow on the phone. They have a new coating now that isn't epoxy based and is resistant to ethanol content to way above any forcast levels, up to 10 even 15% is possible apparently. If its good it should save me from all but the tinyest bit of work on the outside of the tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator mervin Posted January 24, 2011 Moderator Share Posted January 24, 2011 Well i have just taken my TDR tank off thankfully only light surface rust underneath, so i have soaked it in ACF50 for now will be investigating further when the weather is better I:E rub down coat kurust then primer then some kinda paint Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted May 1, 2011 Author Moderator Share Posted May 1, 2011 Well bit late but wanted to check how it would hold up, i'm pleased to report that things are looking pretty good. Well perfect really. Tank care products sell something called sureseal, it all comes in a kit. Some of which you may be able to work around. But to find this out you will have already bought a kit. QED. Bit of a faf to use as you have to go through several stages with cleaning (the instructions could be better), rust treatment and actually adding the resin which needs you to keep the tank hot, so it feels hot but doesent burn your hand, if you know what i mean. End result is worth the effort, makes the tank sound like its plastic when you tap the sides. It also prevents further rusting, all up i'm very happy. Tank is unmarked where it matters and i'm not leaking fuel any more. Added to that any replacement tank i could have found would be no better and would still need work. Reccomended Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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