Gazza M Posted November 30, 2010 Author Share Posted November 30, 2010 If you're anywhere near Reading, let me know and I'll come round with my Locksmith tools. I can't cut keys, though. just read this - annoyingly enough I live in Basingstoke but I'm working up in Cambridge, bike's up here too! fancy a roadtrip ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ttaskmaster Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 Roadtrip.... Ordnarily, yes. But NOT in this fecking snow. I haven't yet been able to get my Winter jacket fixed, so I'm riding around in my Summer one... which has vented panels all over the fucking thing - It's absolutely FREEZING!!!!! Before you go about angle-grinding and all that, try this: Take a junior hacksaw and see if you can fit the blade down between the lock body and the disc, to just saw through the locking bolt. A lot of the cheaper ones don't have reinforced bolts since they're mostly shrouded by the disc. Just be sure to use blades for metal, rather than wood or other types. It'll be a few minutes of work, but much less risky than slipping with an angle grinder!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cov_AL Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 Or... Take the disc off, buy a new one - here £47 and no real risk of doing any damage. Then thermite the old disclock for sh!ts and giggles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barkwindjammer Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 As metal is of a crystaline structure, you could try this method, a little force with a lot of power, gentle taps are all thats needed-over a long ish period http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plug_and_feather Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
up.yours Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 barky,,,?,,, ,,wtf.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wild foamy Posted December 7, 2010 Share Posted December 7, 2010 you say metals are a crystaline structure, unfortunately not always the case, some metals can be "grown" from a single crystal for extra strength, one example i can think of are the compressor/turbine blades for the TurboMeca engines on the AugustaWestland Merlin Mk3/3A ... *mupp mupp... puff...* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazza M Posted December 7, 2010 Author Share Posted December 7, 2010 FINALLY got it off. attacked it witha junior hacksaw to get through the pin and then it came off... yay! BUT. now the bike wont start and the front wheel's all squeaky/doesn't turn great... help again? it's not going well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ttaskmaster Posted December 7, 2010 Share Posted December 7, 2010 Bike: Check battery, check kill switch, check you're in Neutral, etc... Might need more descriptive info on what happens when you try and start it. Front wheel: Check the front brake isn't binding, make sure the disc isn't obstructed, perhaps strip and clean the brake assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ttaskmaster Posted December 7, 2010 Share Posted December 7, 2010 Edit: Double post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barkwindjammer Posted December 7, 2010 Share Posted December 7, 2010 FINALLY got it off. attacked it witha junior hacksaw to get through the pin and then it came off... yay! BUT. now the bike wont start and the front wheel's all squeaky/doesn't turn great... help again? it's not going well. As your bike has sat for a while the brake pots will have allowed the pads to settle against the disc-just take it for a run (be gentle with the braking) and it will ease off-thats after you've charged the battery or replaced it if its fecked Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazza M Posted December 7, 2010 Author Share Posted December 7, 2010 As your bike has sat for a while the brake pots will have allowed the pads to settle against the disc-just take it for a run (be gentle with the braking) OK cheers - makes sense as it's been there nearing on 3 weeks the electrics came on fine when I turned it on, lights and everything, when I pressed the start button it turned over fine but just didn't spark - i tried giving it a bit of throttle and it sparked once then died again. to be fair it does usually take a while to warm up as its only little, i have to leave it on choke for a good few minutes! maybe just a tiny bit of water vapour that's frozen somewhere... I might wait til it gets above -7 before trying to start it again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barkwindjammer Posted December 7, 2010 Share Posted December 7, 2010 OK cheers - makes sense as it's been there nearing on 3 weeks the electrics came on fine when I turned it on, lights and everything, when I pressed the start button it turned over fine but just didn't spark - i tried giving it a bit of throttle and it sparked once then died again. to be fair it does usually take a while to warm up as its only little, i have to leave it on choke for a good few minutes! maybe just a tiny bit of water vapour that's frozen somewhere... I might wait til it gets above -7 before trying to start it again! Yep the cold will not help, bring it into the house to warm up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazza M Posted December 7, 2010 Author Share Posted December 7, 2010 uh huh, not sure the landlord will appreciate it though... feck it. just can't wait to get on it again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ttaskmaster Posted December 7, 2010 Share Posted December 7, 2010 Do you open the choke up before you start it? It should be running OK within about 30 seconds. Some bikes warm up faster/better if you stand them upright off the sidestand (ie sit on it and lift it straight). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazza M Posted December 7, 2010 Author Share Posted December 7, 2010 Do you open the choke up before you start it? It should be running OK within about 30 seconds. Some bikes warm up faster/better if you stand them upright off the sidestand (ie sit on it and lift it straight). i do - not quite sure what's happening! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
choppernorgate Posted December 7, 2010 Share Posted December 7, 2010 As your bike has sat for a while the brake pots will have allowed the pads to settle against the disc-just take it for a run (be gentle with the braking) and it will ease off-thats after you've charged the battery or replaced it if its fecked Take off the brake resovoir cap, push the brake calliper against the disc, not to let the fluid over flow, the put cap back on, spray disc with disc cleaner turn wheel whilst wiping it with a clean cloth, Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ttaskmaster Posted December 8, 2010 Share Posted December 8, 2010 i tried giving it a bit of throttle and it sparked once then died again. Try some fuel additive. Several companies make stuff that you add to the fuel which acts like anti-freeze. Guards against carb icing and the like. Should find it in any MC parts or accessories shop. Failing that, Hein gericke, M&P, Busters Accessories and the other online places should do it. You add something like a capfull per 10 litres or somesuch. Claire uses it and never has any problems starting her bike up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazza M Posted December 8, 2010 Author Share Posted December 8, 2010 Try some fuel additive. Several companies make stuff that you add to the fuel which acts like anti-freeze. Guards against carb icing and the like. Should find it in any MC parts or accessories shop. Failing that, Hein gericke, M&P, Busters Accessories and the other online places should do it. You add something like a capfull per 10 litres or somesuch. Claire uses it and never has any problems starting her bike up. i went home at lunch, i guess when its maybe above freezing, and it coughed and spluttered and eventually woke up! albeit briefly... i think (as you say) the carb was just iced up despite it being garaged! Take off the brake resovoir cap, push the brake calliper against the disc, not to let the fluid over flow, the put cap back on, spray disc with disc cleaner turn wheel whilst wiping it with a clean cloth, Good luck one panic over, now just to sort out the brakes... what do you mean by push the brake calliper against the disc? just pull the brake lever? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
choppernorgate Posted December 9, 2010 Share Posted December 9, 2010 i went home at lunch, i guess when its maybe above freezing, and it coughed and spluttered and eventually woke up! albeit briefly... i think (as you say) the carb was just iced up despite it being garaged! one panic over, now just to sort out the brakes... what do you mean by push the brake calliper against the disc? just pull the brake lever? No push the calliper with your hand, this will retracked the piston in the callipar, the fluid will be pushed back up the brake cable and in to the cup, so mind it dont over flow, it just needs a ml or two, that will release the pads from tuching the disc, leaving it free to turn the wheel with out them rubbing any grit that may on the disc. Good luck, its quit straight forward, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulwhite Posted December 9, 2010 Share Posted December 9, 2010 just 1 question.....what make was the disk lock? i want to know so i dont get one....not if all it takes to get it off is a junior hacksaw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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