2 Wheels Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 Yeah. i like em. Maybe share the info you found with him Pat. 1/4 turn out. thats running a bit rich ain't it? Mine probably wouldn't start if i set it that low. Aye, sorry mate,,,,,typo error,,,,,,,1 + 1/4 turn out's, is what im at ! And the info i found for the Lanza 230. This is for a 99 year bike so maby it would change for different years ! Engine Bore x Stroke / Displacement: 66.8mm * 64.0mm / 224cm^3 Ignition: Digital CDI Starter System: Electric Transmission: 6-speed Frame Type: Chrome-moly Steel Tube Overall Length: 2,225mm Overall Width: 800mm Overall Height: 1,200 mm Seat Height: 865mm Wheelbase: 1,410mm Ground Clearance: 300mm Dry Weight: 121Kg Tyre Size / Pressure (Front): 3.00-21 51P / 1.25 Kg/cm^3 Tyre Size / Pressure (Rear): 4.60-18 63P / 1.50 Kg/cm^3 Compression Ratio: 6.5:1 Compression Pressure: 8.2 Kg/cm^3 Piston Clearance: 0.045mm - 0.050mm Piston Outside Diameter Measuring Point: 10.0mm Ring End Gap (Top / 2nd): 0.30mm - 0.50mm / 0.30mm - 0.50mm Ring Groove Side Clearance (Top / 2nd): 0.02mm - 0.06mm / 0.030mm - 0.065mm Valve Clearance (Engine Cold) In/Ex: - Minimum Autolube Pump Stroke: 0.20mm - 0.24mm Carburettor Type / Manufactured / I.D. Mark: TM30x1 / MIKUNI / 4TP00 Main Jet: #165 M.J. Jet Needle, Clip Position: 6DHY40-4 J.N. Needle Jet: O-0 N.J. Pilot jet: #22.5 P.J. Pilot / Air Screw (Turn Out): 1-1/4 P.S. (A.S.) Float height / Fuel Level: 12.4-13.4/- F.H / F.L Idling Engine Speed: 1,300-1,400 r/min Secondary type / Teeth / Ratio: Chain / 55 / 16 / 3.437 Secondary Drive Chain Type / No. of Links: 428VS3 / 132 Transmission Case (Reassemble): 850cm^3 / SAE 10W30 SE Motor Oil Transmission Case (Filter Change): - Transmission Case (Periodic Change): 800 cm^3 Oil Tank: 1.3 Litre / Air cooled 2-stroke engine oil Fuel Tank: 11.0 Litre / Regulator Front Fork Oil: 542 cm^3 / Fork Oil 10W or Equivalent / - Rear Shock Absorber (Monocross): 15.0 kg / cm^3 Gear Case (Middle / Final): - Radiator: 1.26 Litre Electrical Charging System / Model: C.D.I Magneto Battery Type / Capacity: GT6B-3 / 1.320 / 12V, 6Ah Headlight Wattage (High / Low Beam): 12V, 60 / 55 W Brake Light / Taillight Wattage: 12V, 21 / 5 W A.C Generator Max Output: 14V, 12A / 5,000 rpm Lighting / Charging Coil Resistance: - Pickup Coil / Source Coil Resistance: 820 Ohms +/- 20% (W/R – W/L) | 750 Ohms +/- 20% (B/R – G/W) | 590 Ohms +/- 20% (G/L – G/W) Ignition Coil (Primary / Secondary): 0.23 Ohms +/- 20% / 7.9k +/- 20% Spark Plug Type / Gap: BR9ES (NGK) / 0.7mm – 0.8mm Ignition Timing (Retarded) / (Advanced): 14 degrees (1,350) BTDC Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LanzaTZ Posted October 2, 2010 Author Share Posted October 2, 2010 thanks for all the help! Another issue I have is the bike sits too low for me. How do I stiffen the rear spring? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vez Posted October 2, 2010 Share Posted October 2, 2010 thanks for all the help! Another issue I have is the bike sits too low for me. How do I stiffen the rear spring? Stiffening the rear spring wont help much imo, but you can adjust the DTR by the locking nut on the rear shock so maybe the lanza is the same. To stiffen the spring you would tighten it, but to make it higher you would need to slacken it off, which will make the rear spring softer. Or the other way to raise the back end would be to buy or make some shorter suspension linkage bars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LanzaTZ Posted October 2, 2010 Author Share Posted October 2, 2010 Stiffening the rear spring wont help much imo, but you can adjust the DTR by the locking nut on the rear shock so maybe the lanza is the same. To stiffen the spring you would tighten it, but to make it higher you would need to slacken it off, which will make the rear spring softer. Or the other way to raise the back end would be to buy or make some shorter suspension linkage bars. I don't think I can make those and I'm not sure where to find those online. I did order 2 new air filters from the UK today. I hope they come soon. My wife reminded me that the petrol here is often a mixture of petrol, kerosene and water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vez Posted October 2, 2010 Share Posted October 2, 2010 I don't think I can make those and I'm not sure where to find those online. I did order 2 new air filters from the UK today. I hope they come soon. My wife reminded me that the petrol here is often a mixture of petrol, kerosene and water. that won't help with tuning at all. Maybe try to talk with someone more local to you who is used to working with that kind of fuel. Try and adjust the suspension to see if that helps, if indeed it is the same as the DTR's that is. How tall are you? I figure the Lanza is high like the DTR, so maybe it has been lowered by a previous owner (i.e. longer linkage fitted), I don't think the Japanese are known for being a nation of tall people, so its possible it has. If it has then sourcing a standard linkage may be an answer. Is there not a local engineering company that can make you a linkage if needed? They are quite simple to make. There is also the expensive option of buying a longer rear shock if adjustment etc. doesn't do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LanzaTZ Posted October 3, 2010 Author Share Posted October 3, 2010 that won't help with tuning at all. Maybe try to talk with someone more local to you who is used to working with that kind of fuel. Try and adjust the suspension to see if that helps, if indeed it is the same as the DTR's that is. How tall are you? I figure the Lanza is high like the DTR, so maybe it has been lowered by a previous owner (i.e. longer linkage fitted), I don't think the Japanese are known for being a nation of tall people, so its possible it has. If it has then sourcing a standard linkage may be an answer. Is there not a local engineering company that can make you a linkage if needed? They are quite simple to make. There is also the expensive option of buying a longer rear shock if adjustment etc. doesn't do it. I'm 6'7" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinD Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 Hi, I have a Lanza DT 230 which I think is a 1996 from Japan. I can't find much info about it online and I am having problems with my plugs staying clean more than a few days and there is quite a bit of smoke. Someone recommended disconnecting the oil reserve and mixing it myself in the tank. I don't really want to do that. Can I adjust something or is it just the life of a 2 stroke? Thanks Hello there, I'm late to this thread but I'm wondering if you sorted out the problem? I have a 2001 DT230 which I bought a few months ago with 650 km on the clock. It's in near showroom condition, as you would expect. I'm also having a problem with excessive fumes. So far no fouled plug but that's probably on the horizon unless I get the fuming sorted. My clothes smell like a lawn mower when I get to work each day When running on the choke if blows big clouds of thick smoke. Even when warmed up there's still a bit of smoke, and quite a lot under acceleration. It drips a bit of sludge from the muffler drain pipe after each 40 km trip to work. I know that's why the drain is there, but I'm not happy thinking about what that sludge is doing to the power valve and exhaust. It was serviced by a Yamaha dealer before I took it and I assume they put the right oil in it. I recently filled the oil tank with Castrol 2T, with no difference. Will be changing the air filter this weekend but I don't really think it could make that much difference (the old one is clean). The oil mix cable is perfectly adjusted, as per handbook. Here's one theory: I removed the restrictor in the exhaust shortly after getting the bike. Instant +100% power - nice modification. Could that have caused the bike to run rich? Fuel economy is not too bad, but I don't have any "before" and "after" so can't really use that as a guide. For the record, it gets 20 km / litre in mixed riding, which has included some nasty traffic. It's still got the factory knobbies, which would not be helping fuel economy. If it's not fuel I guess it would have to be the oil injector. It's easy to adjust but the the consequences of getting it wrong are serious. How do you know when it's adjusted properly? Oil is supposed to need filling every fourth tank of fuel and that's about right for me too. PS if there's any two-stroke gurus in Sydney show can show me how to adjust the carbie, there's a slab of premium beer in it (your choice). cheers ColinD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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