Steve R Posted September 21, 2010 Share Posted September 21, 2010 Just got a YBR 125 2010 model. It is difficult to fit my foot inbetween the shifter and peg to change up a gear. Is there any way to adjust or move the shifter or get a different peg to make this easier? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris66 Posted September 21, 2010 Share Posted September 21, 2010 i expect you undo the bolt holding it on the spline and put it back on one notch up. chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve R Posted September 21, 2010 Author Share Posted September 21, 2010 i expect you undo the bolt holding it on the spline and put it back on one notch up. chris Thanks, will have a good look when I get a little more time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
X_FISH Posted September 24, 2010 Share Posted September 24, 2010 It is very easy to fix that. Had the same problem - with a size 8 boot. Set it up (two teeth) and now I can shift without any problems. More pictures and some text (in german, but easy to translate using the google translator - simply click on the union jack on the top of the page) available on my website: Adjust the YBR 125 shift lever. Greetings, Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve R Posted October 2, 2010 Author Share Posted October 2, 2010 Thanks, I really appreciate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doomsnite Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Sorry for old thread. 2 things 1 cant convert language using that link above and the GB flag. 2 What size spanner do i need for the job? I dont have any tools and need to get some in order to do this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted January 14, 2014 Moderator Share Posted January 14, 2014 To adjust gear lever Convenient switching without contortions Since the purchase I get annoyed when shifting a little. The shift lever is not actually incorrect: If you were to push the boots to stop the heel to the front, I can easily shift down. However, the upshift, I have a strong tendency to bottom, the toe of his boot. At slightly bulkier boots (like the Alpinestars on the image), it is actually impossible to turn without contortions reasonable or the toe of lower back enough after the upshift. Previous shift lever position my YBR 125 Kinking of the boots cumbersome or impossible I've looked at the side shots of some YBR 125 on the internet. If it's not just the data published by a learner presumably before the first use advertising shots of driving schools, the shift lever has been placed at least one notch up. The problem seems therefore to have not just me? Even with my tour boots I had begun to turn to the very end of the tip. That did not turn to any attempt been successful, was the unpleasant side effect. In this setting the shift lever is one of the easiest adjustments that are possible on the YBR 125. Shift shaft at removed shifter The teeth in the gear lever In order to find it for a personal best position of the shift lever to set the machine best on the center stand (if available, the newer models have indeed "only" have the side stand). In normal sitting posture of the foot or boots should then be advised of the catch, both on the rubber of the shift lever loose and without twisting and putting down the boot. That's the theory, but I seem in terms of my feet and my shoes do not quite fit for YBR 125. Either I have with shoe size 42 too big or too long feet, or I'm just a little awkward. If the distance between the footrest and switching role only about 2 inches longer, I would probably get rid of all worries and problems relative to the engagement. Unfortunately, the YBR offers the only possibility of setting the displacement of the shift lever to. Anyway, I have decided to move the lever once by two teeth up. Two teeth upwards affect so from 10 Nut and away you go Should it happen to me then after a long ride too high, I can still go back by one tooth down. In the picture it looks the way still higher than it is in reality, probably throws which the rubber from the shift lever for the shadows. As can be seen on the screen below, the shift lever is held by a bolt on the selector shaft. A change of the position of the shift lever does not really require much more than a little time and a nut 10 together with ratchet or ratchet. Detail of the screw on the shift lever Define some terms on the edge or at the end: On eBay I'm looking for parts for the YBR encountered the term "shift drum" for the rubber coating on the shift lever. However, the shift drum is not the coating of rubber, but a part of which is seated on the switching shaft. Deep Link How to position the foot? Granted, the pictures are not just perfect for illustrating. Outside, the shots would probably be better but when it rains, I then but preferred to let the camera and machine dry. First, two well-known and frequently encountered, but unfortunately just rather not worth imitating positions for the foot: The "Seitwärtsabspreizer" The "Seitwärtsabspreizer" While the foot is pushed to the "Snap" on the heel to the front, turning off the toes off the bike and placed it next to brake and shift. Not only that you look like a frog, you will also automatically in this position, the knee from the tank. Overall, it sits slightly wakelig on the machine and works a lot with the shoulders and arms to feel safe and secure. In the end, one feels not only in the upper body plenty exhausted, but must in dangerous situations raise the foot to brake and turn inward. This takes time and ensures also happen to be for a certain restlessness of the motorcycle. The "duration brakeman" The "duration brakeman" Jokingly also "Einbremser" or "extremely careful driver" called. The foot is advanced on both sides until it stops at the heel. With smooth tour boots remains sitting on the footrest on usually with the middle of the foot. I must admit to be driven themselves for quite a while. Was seemingly comfortable and I have imagined being able to activate as well as faster the foot brake. Finally, one is constantly in "Have Eight" position. Even here, however, for me the side effect that I have mostly taken the knees quite far from the tank and a total of (subjective) was sitting a little unstable. Other drivers prefer exactly this position. But: They then usually also the possibility to set the brake and shift levers clean and fine. This is absent in the YBR 125, unfortunately. Maybe it would work with enough distance between the footrest and role on the shift with me? I'll probably find it at the earliest with the change to a different machine. In any case I especially noticed it when cornering and longer distances: the knee gradually go to the tank and somehow I was even more enjoyable than before - so at least my subjective perception if I can hook of "boots on the heel" position in the as next position described'm changed: Place the boots only with the heel on the passenger footrests. As it is explained in driver safety training From the driver safety training Almost everywhere read in German forums: Organised by ADAC or similar institutions driver safety training and have what the riders and drivers in their efforts noticed and taken to tips on the foot position so. Very often it is reported that they now change their seating position permanently (want to) and this in particular because they place their feet differently. When driving the foot is set up with only the ball of the foot on the pegs. This results in a better ride while you sit comfortable when the thighs are not rotated with the outside. By the way, is your ability to turn less risk with the toe set up on the tarmac. Although it is customary in some circuits, to compare the worn toe slider. However, by a different driving habit than by the "frog position" use. What I have not yet succeeded with shoe size 42 in the YBR 125: The heel of the boot back to the turn off the approach of the passenger footrests. At least, this is probably recommended in safety training. The YBR 125, the distances are too great for it then probably significantly. If the foot rests only with the bale on the footrest, you have to walk to the shifting and braking course again implement. However, I did not feel this was a problem. Especially when braking simply uses an automatism. When driving a car, I have the feet also do not constantly the clutch when I then brake must he is automatically there. In any case, it looks more sporty - just look at the round-propelled "frogs" eighth. To quote my driving instructor: "The feet are on the pegs and not in the air." Maybe it's the "frogs", which also hang out at start both feet long? I have to go look more closely at ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doomsnite Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 NIce one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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