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clarke

XVS125 carburetor joint

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Hi all,

Just noticed today my carburetor joint (the Y shaped hose that connects the carburetor & both cylinders together) has BIG cracks in it & when the throttle is twisted it bulges out!!! Guess that's why my bike has been struggling at 50mph?!

Does anyone know the best solution? I'm guessing tank off & replace the joint? Anyone know how difficult this is/have any tips??

In the meantime, how likely is the bike to go bang if I keep using it?

Thanks for any help

Graham

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Hi all,

Just noticed today my carburetor joint (the Y shaped hose that connects the carburetor & both cylinders together) has BIG cracks in it & when the throttle is twisted it bulges out!!! Guess that's why my bike has been struggling at 50mph?!

Does anyone know the best solution? I'm guessing tank off & replace the joint? Anyone know how difficult this is/have any tips??

In the meantime, how likely is the bike to go bang if I keep using it?

Thanks for any help

Graham

yes its a common problem if you have cracks and loss of power the only way is to replace the carburetor intake manifold,its not a big job just a pain in the arse as you have to remove the tank and according to the workshop manual the silencer, have you got the xvs 125 service manual off here ? if so refer to chapter 6 not had to do mine yet so cant give you any tips, not likely to go bang just loss of top end power which it already seems you have.

good luck paul.

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Thanks Paul, I have got the manual from here so will have a good read over the next week or so...

I'll order a new part tomorrow then. Will probably tackle it Easter week as off work then. Think in the meantime I'll stick to using my brother's 125 Honda Shadow to go to work on...

If anyone else has any experience of this would be good to hear from you.

Cheers

Graham

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Just ordered the part - joint + 2x O-rings for £80... Should have been more but they knocked 10% off then rounded it down to £80. Should have it for the weekend.

Is this just normal wear and tear or could I be responsible for it cracking?

Anything else I should do whilst tank off?

Graham

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hi graham, its just normal wear and tear, heat from the engine makes them brittle and prone to cracking so whilst you have the tank off check out your fuel hoses and crank case breather pipe, condition of carb and choke cable give the outside of carb a good clean and oil any moving parts just take the opportunity to clean anywhere thats normally difficult to reach.

your better off getting a new part have seen some used ones for sale at autojumbles but they wont last long just false economy.

good luck paul.

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Thanks Paul, guess it's a good day's work then... Will let you all know how I get on

Cheers

Graham

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Right, am tackling this tomorrow as am off work. Been reading service manuel & it says about removing the tank "Set the fuel cock to “OFF” before disconnecting the fuel hose" only thing is, it only has RES > PRI > ON. Can anyone explain where off is? (Apologies if I'm being thick...!

Thanks

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hi graham, yes it is a bit confusing in the manual where it says make sure its in the off position,the only position you dont want it in is the PRI in the on and res positions when you remove the fuel hoses just a drop will come out of the hose as the way the fuel system works fuel will only flow when the ignition is switched on and the engine is running but in the PRI position fuel will flow by gravity so just leave in on or res position you will have no problem, as long as you just remove fuel hoses and not the petcock. :lol:

good luck paul.

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it only has RES > PRI > ON. Can anyone explain where off is?

Wherever those three aren't, ie the empty space.

If those are at 9, 12 and 3 o'clock, then OFF would be at the 6.

I don't recall there being an OFF either, but I did have the tank off my 125 once so there must be one.

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Wherever those three aren't, ie the empty space.

If those are at 9, 12 and 3 o'clock, then OFF would be at the 6.

I don't recall there being an OFF either, but I did have the tank off my 125 once so there must be one.

you wont re call there being an off as there is not one, on bikes like the dragstar fitted with a vacumm type petcock it does away with the need for an off position.

its vaccum fed on the 125 theres a hose just behind the fuel line off the fuel pump it connects to the vaccum port thats where you get your vaccum from when the bike is off so is your petrol flow . it works like a auto off and on switch. thats why you also have a pri position to over ride it and get petrol to the carb when you have run out of petrol and the bowl is empty or has been stood still for a long time or other reasons whenyou have fuel issues.

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Ooooh, fancy.....

But then, I never ran out of petrol, so... :P:lol:

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Hi all,

Just noticed today my carburetor joint (the Y shaped hose that connects the carburetor & both cylinders together) has BIG cracks in it & when the throttle is twisted it bulges out!!! Guess that's why my bike has been struggling at 50mph?!

Does anyone know the best solution? I'm guessing tank off & replace the joint? Anyone know how difficult this is/have any tips??

In the meantime, how likely is the bike to go bang if I keep using it?

Thanks for any help

Graham

i had to do the same to mine take of ur tank (u have to take of ur seats first and ur speedo) the take of ur air filters and all the air in take then the carb then take of the join muthe screw may shier and the a funny star shape wit a dot in the middle put on the new part and put it back to gether

and it good to take pictures as u go along

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Hi Zozle, thanks for your reply

I thought I updated this when i fixed it in March (obviously not!)

Here's a link to the pics I took when I did mine (hopefully it may help someone?) http://s1030.photobucket.com/albums/y362/clarkegray/XVS%20repairs/

It seems a bigger job than it actually is. I managed to leave my carb on, the only issue I had was getting the clamp off that held the carb to the carb joint - just wouldn't turn + started to strip the screw head, came off eventually though.

Oldtimer - thanks for the advice on the petcock, was spot on. I should have realised it was vacumm as I cut into the vacumm pipe to install the scottoiler.

Ttaskmaster - thanks for the advice in another post about tying string around the cables before passing them through the tank, made it really easy to thread them back through when reinstalling the tank.

Since doing the carb joint, I've noticed I'm getting 140+ miles out of the tank before running out (haven't actually ran out though), whereas before I'd get 115-120 miles before having to switch to the reserve tank.

Am also noticing the bike will accelerate on hills to 55mph+ whereas before on the same stretch of road it would top out at 45mph so am pleased with the results.

Thanks again for all your help

Graham

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Ttaskmaster - thanks for the advice in another post about tying string around the cables before passing them through the tank, made it really easy to thread them back through when reinstalling the tank.

OMG!!!!!!!!!

Someone who uses the Search function and actually reads the advice we post here???!!!

WOOOO-HOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!

Yeeeeeees, bathe in my sarcasm, Brian :lol:

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I know this topic is old, but does anyone know where the part was ordered from?

I used a Virago one, and looked exactly same until it came to mounting the carb, it was at a bad angle, I've tried everything but it just needs a Dragstars one.

If anyone can tell me this will save a bike.

Thanks people I'm at my wits end.

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Hi All,

I order all my parts from Fowlers motorcycles.

http://www.fowlers.co.uk/

Just give them the yamaha part number and they will have it. If you dont know the number they can help.

Hope it helps

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F**KING HELL, Expensive or what?

Cheers guys, guess I'll just have to bite the bullet.

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