Russell James Posted June 15, 2009 Posted June 15, 2009 Gday fellas and girls, I recently scored myself an original 76 model dt 100 here in Aus. She"s a beaut but cant get a spark, checked the coil and plug, fuse and all good? Points are ok but no power there either.Have ordered new points and condenser and am waiting to get here. Be great if I can get her going just to do her up to her former glory. Can anyone help? Regards Russell James
Moderator DirtyDT Posted June 15, 2009 Moderator Posted June 15, 2009 Nice! Have a look at the data here and test that all the electrical is in spec Here This is what I would do..... (working backwards) Test all of the electrical against the chart (Ohms). Next I would disconnect the kill switch (Black and Black/White wire) in the headlight. Assuming the coil is within spec I would test the coil earth. I would then test that the low voltage wire from the coil to the mag is connected (continuity) Then check the timing. Fit the new points and condenser and see where you are.
Russell James Posted June 16, 2009 Author Posted June 16, 2009 Thanks mate, I will try that Regards Russell James Nice! Have a look at the data here and test that all the electrical is in spec Here This is what I would do..... (working backwards) Test all of the electrical against the chart (Ohms). Next I would disconnect the kill switch (Black and Black/White wire) in the headlight. Assuming the coil is within spec I would test the coil earth. I would then test that the low voltage wire from the coil to the mag is connected (continuity) Then check the timing. Fit the new points and condenser and see where you are.
Moderator Cynic Posted June 16, 2009 Moderator Posted June 16, 2009 Gday fellas and girls, I recently scored myself an original 76 model dt 100 here in Aus. She"s a beaut but cant get a spark, checked the coil and plug, fuse and all good? Points are ok but no power there either.Have ordered new points and condenser and am waiting to get here. Be great if I can get her going just to do her up to her former glory. Can anyone help? Regards Russell James One thing to point out, you will only have power at the points when the engine is running. And then it will be an earth path so tricky to test. All of Dirty's post (er?) is valid but i have found using a battery can quickly clear up these kind of probs. First get a 6v fully charged battery. Earth the - to the frame/ engine. Now open the connector for the coil and touch the +. When you break the connection you should have a spark just like the points breaking. If not thats likely enough the fault. Work back through the loom to the generator/points connections and ultimately where there isn't a spark is where the fault will lie. Please be aware if you stumble across a dead short an unfused wire will get VERY hot VERY fast (you can weld with a battery) so an inline fuse is a must. It seems a little basic but it has worked for me on several occations. (edit) Hmm Having re-read this its not clear what i meant about a spark. Breaking the connection between the battery and the wire will trigger a response not unlike opening the points and causing a spark AT THE PLUG. The wiring will be perfectly fine unless the wire it's self is an issue hence the fuse.
little dave Posted June 16, 2009 Posted June 16, 2009 Please be aware if you stumble across a dead short an unfused wire will get VERY hot VERY fast (you can weld with a battery) so an inline fuse is a must. It seems a little basic but it has worked for me on several occations. seems that in my life that i have used that method by accident on my cars. "follow the burned, melted wire. where its not melted anymore.... thats the short point." I seem to remember a time when i was traveling with my dad in my suburban, my speakerbox in the back tipped over as i pulled into traffic. the power lead (8 gauge) yanked out of the amp and welded itself to the first ground point it found. the music stopped and the whole truck filled with smoke as the insulation fried off of the unfused cable, it took seconds. lesson learned. i invested in one those circuit breaker fuses. (well worth the cost, as they reset themselves) oh yeah thats the point of this rambling. you may want to buy one of those reseting breaker fuses when you do all this testing, better than making a pile of blown fuses. while youre at it tie an LED in line with the breaker. if the led lights, you know you have a complete circuit. if the led goes out, you know the breaker tripped or that you dont have a complete circuit. you may be able to jiggle your harness with this hooked up and look for a flicker of light from the led that could show a ground fault. and the breaker makes an audible click when it trips.
Russell James Posted June 19, 2009 Author Posted June 19, 2009 Ok fellas, I just got a condenser for the dt but it looks different to the one on the bike. The current one has a black cover on one end with 2 wires coming out of it. The replacement one looks like a standard condenser with just one wire coming from it ? Anyone know whats going on here? Regards Russell.
Russell James Posted June 21, 2009 Author Posted June 21, 2009 Yep thats the one. The one sent to me has only one wire on it. Will it still work or will I have to order another one? should it look like this? Here
Russell James Posted June 21, 2009 Author Posted June 21, 2009 And while on the subject Ive just fitted the new points but its hard as hell to get in to set the gap with the magneto cover on? Very hard to see inside to set the gap.Mongrel ! Russell Yep thats the one. The one sent to me has only one wire on it. Will it still work or will I have to order another one?
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