Moderator DirtyDT Posted June 5, 2009 Moderator Share Posted June 5, 2009 Does anyone know what the speedo cable fitting size is, where the cable bolts to the bottom of the speedo? Is it an M12? Ta!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted June 5, 2009 Moderator Share Posted June 5, 2009 Why? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted June 5, 2009 Moderator Share Posted June 5, 2009 Does anyone know what the speedo cable fitting size is, where the cable bolts to the bottom of the speedo? Is it an M12? Ta!! Odd question..... The nut will come with the cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted June 5, 2009 Author Moderator Share Posted June 5, 2009 Hi OG / Cynic, Because I am looking at speedos and rev counter options. Not the V expensive original ones on hbay at the moment but electronic or mechanical universal ones. I am reliably informed that 21 and 16 inch wheels use the 2240:60 speedo ratio and these are available however I would not want to get one unless I can get the speedo cable in the back and would hope to use a standard DT cable for when I get my hands on an original one. The same goes for the rev counter. There are different ratios and, although, they say that the cable fitting is "universal" I was going to check first This kind of thing That would only leave me to change the bulbs to 6v The electric ones are limited due to the 6v on the bike and I do not really want a halfords £5 one. I am trying to get all the parts I need to get the bike up and down the road at least before the summer ends - I hope!! I still need new chain and sprockets, headlight, horn, l/h switch gear, battery, Chain tensioner, road tyres, speedo (of course) MOT, tax, insurance. Most I can get but the chain tensioner may have to be new, the headlight and speedo may have to be universal ones at the moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted June 5, 2009 Moderator Share Posted June 5, 2009 Hi OG / Cynic, Because I am looking at speedos and rev counter options. Not the V expensive original ones on hbay at the moment but electronic or mechanical universal ones. I am reliably informed that 21 and 16 inch wheels use the 2240:60 speedo ratio and these are available however I would not want to get one unless I can get the speedo cable in the back and would hope to use a standard DT cable for when I get my hands on an original one. The same goes for the rev counter. There are different ratios and, although, they say that the cable fitting is "universal" I was going to check first This kind of thing That would only leave me to change the bulbs to 6v The electric ones are limited due to the 6v on the bike and I do not really want a halfords £5 one. I am trying to get all the parts I need to get the bike up and down the road at least before the summer ends - I hope!! I still need new chain and sprockets, headlight, horn, l/h switch gear, battery, Chain tensioner, road tyres, speedo (of course) MOT, tax, insurance. Most I can get but the chain tensioner may have to be new, the headlight and speedo may have to be universal ones at the moment. I can do you a complete chain tentioner if you want. Second hand but complete and in pretty good nick TBH. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted June 5, 2009 Author Moderator Share Posted June 5, 2009 Cheers Cynic, I do not have any parts of this. I have managed to get a chain guide and guard but the whole chain tensioner assembly is missing. I have just PM'ed you. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
little dave Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 I am reliably informed that 21 and 16 inch wheels use the 2240:60 speedo ratio and these are available however I would not want to get one unless I can get the speedo cable in the back and would hope to use a standard DT cable for when I get my hands on an original one. perhaps im misinformed myself, but can anybody explain to me how a speedo (which basically counts the number of tire revs) and uses gears to achieve the corrtect tire to needle/odometer ratio, how can it work on both 16 & 21 inch tires? (without being re-geared for one or the other) i mean if you wanted to get maniacally detailed about it, even tire wear would cause fractional changes in the accuracy of a speedo... also do 1974 dt175's have chain tensioners? or are they supposed to? mine dosent (should it?) lemme know if you need a battery (unless you want yamaha stock) , in my town we have a place that has sealed cell and wet cell. ( i use a sealed cell, much les leaky) I can get you a link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimR Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 perhaps im misinformed myself, but can anybody explain to me how a speedo (which basically counts the number of tire revs) and uses gears to achieve the corrtect tire to needle/odometer ratio, how can it work on both 16 & 21 inch tires? (without being re-geared for one or the other) i mean if you wanted to get maniacally detailed about it, even tire wear would cause fractional changes in the accuracy of a speedo... also do 1974 dt175's have chain tensioners? or are they supposed to? mine dosent (should it?) lemme know if you need a battery (unless you want yamaha stock) , in my town we have a place that has sealed cell and wet cell. ( i use a sealed cell, much les leaky) I can get you a link. Hi Dave I guess you where just misinformed (to a point) the speedo head could be the same but the drive (wheel gearbox) will have a different ratio to keep the head indicating the correct speed ... i.e 16 inch wheel =drive A 21 inch wheel drive B , and both could use the same head and also the drive's physical appearence remains the same. Years ago I had some fun by fitting another drive to a bike (the person said it was the fastest xyz) which then indicated to his speedo 100mph (he braged) everyone else laughed as he was past @ 75 when his clock was showing 100 ! Regards Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted June 5, 2009 Author Moderator Share Posted June 5, 2009 perhaps im misinformed myself, but can anybody explain to me how a speedo (which basically counts the number of tire revs) and uses gears to achieve the corrtect tire to needle/odometer ratio, how can it work on both 16 & 21 inch tires? (without being re-geared for one or the other) i mean if you wanted to get maniacally detailed about it, even tire wear would cause fractional changes in the accuracy of a speedo... also do 1974 dt175's have chain tensioners? or are they supposed to? mine dosent (should it?) lemme know if you need a battery (unless you want yamaha stock) , in my town we have a place that has sealed cell and wet cell. ( i use a sealed cell, much les leaky) I can get you a link. I think JimR has answered one point. Speedo's are not accurate anyway so a little tyre wear will not make much difference. The tensioner sits behind the side stand and bolts to the swing arm. It keeps the slack in the chain, controlled. Part 22 Here plus all of the other bits. There is a hbayer on the us site selling one with a couple of other bits for $15. Unfortunatly I am in good ole England so the postage would be horrendus. Thanks for the battery info but as I am a few miles away the postage would be too much again. There are lots of local places I can get one but not the weekend for that. I am set up for ripping off the back end this weekend. I just picked up the stand. £18. I am well pleased. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimR Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 I think JimR has answered one point. Speedo's are not accurate anyway so a little tyre wear will not make much difference. The tensioner sits behind the side stand and bolts to the swing arm. It keeps the slack in the chain, controlled. Part 22 Here plus all of the other bits. There is a hbayer on the us site selling one with a couple of other bits for $15. Unfortunatly I am in good ole England so the postage would be horrendus. Thanks for the battery info but as I am a few miles away the postage would be too much again. There are lots of local places I can get one but not the weekend for that. I am set up for ripping off the back end this weekend. I just picked up the stand. £18. I am well pleased. Oh forgot to add the older DT's did not have a chain tensioner as STD Regards Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted June 5, 2009 Moderator Share Posted June 5, 2009 I think JimR has answered one point. Speedo's are not accurate anyway so a little tyre wear will not make much difference. The tensioner sits behind the side stand and bolts to the swing arm. It keeps the slack in the chain, controlled. Part 22 Here plus all of the other bits. There is a hbayer on the us site selling one with a couple of other bits for $15. Unfortunatly I am in good ole England so the postage would be horrendus. Thanks for the battery info but as I am a few miles away the postage would be too much again. There are lots of local places I can get one but not the weekend for that. I am set up for ripping off the back end this weekend. I just picked up the stand. £18. I am well pleased. MMMM looks like someone has amputated your indicator brackets like i did with mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimR Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 MMMM looks like someone has amputated your indicator brackets like i did with mine. Adding them from build up was a pain ..... there is little wonder they were not replaced ! Regards Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted June 5, 2009 Author Moderator Share Posted June 5, 2009 MMMM looks like someone has amputated your indicator brackets like i did with mine. Damn... Well spotted Cynic. It is missing those but I am going back to strip the frame at some point this year so they will be manufactured or ground down and different ones fitted. It is also missing one tab from the lower plastic mud guard but this is attached to the plastic so I can refit that. The swing arm is missing the bracket that holds the bottom of the chain guard. This will be fixed once I get the swing arm off tomorrow and have given it several coats of Nitromores. I am going to PJ1 satin black the frame and swing arm - I think??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted June 5, 2009 Moderator Share Posted June 5, 2009 Damn... Well spotted Cynic. It is missing those but I am going back to strip the frame at some point this year so they will be manufactured or ground down and different ones fitted. It is also missing one tab from the lower plastic mud guard but this is attached to the plastic so I can refit that. The swing arm is missing the bracket that holds the bottom of the chain guard. This will be fixed once I get the swing arm off tomorrow and have given it several coats of Nitromores. I am going to PJ1 satin black the frame and swing arm - I think??? Yeah it was a few years back on mine went for MOT without indicators cos i was sick of smashing them up, smart arse said if the brackets are there the indicators have to be. Ha 20 minutes with a grinder and they were gone, back to the MOT within the hour for the retest. To be fair i was well into trail riding at the time and i laid her down far more than the wife To be fair the first things to get mullerd if the bike goes over are those bloody indicators, or you kick em to death with your boots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted June 5, 2009 Author Moderator Share Posted June 5, 2009 ..... i laid her down far more than the wife ..... Class Apart from the regulation stuff the only rule was if it was on the bike it had to work. I am looking at a daytime MOT so no lights etc for the short term but I would not butcher the bike (like some previous owners) to get one. In the car you don't need to have a spare wheel but if you have one it has to be legal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted June 5, 2009 Moderator Share Posted June 5, 2009 Hi OG / Cynic, Because I am looking at speedos and rev counter options. Not the V expensive original ones on hbay at the moment but electronic or mechanical universal ones. Oh I dunno, if you root around...There are some Bargains tp be had. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted June 6, 2009 Author Moderator Share Posted June 6, 2009 Oh I dunno, if you root around...There are some Bargains tp be had. I did see these OG and had a bid but as I type they are at £130. Too rich at the moment!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted June 6, 2009 Author Moderator Share Posted June 6, 2009 ..... I am set up for ripping off the back end this weekend. .... I was ready to rip the back off this morning. The bike is on the stand but it rained all night and most of the morning. The rain stopped and out I went. Off with the chain and rear wheel, no problems. Now ready for the swing arm. I unbolt the shock nut but where the bike is on the stand the bolt is in line with the frame so jack up the swing arm a little and drive the bolt out with ease. Now the swing arm to frame pivot bolt. The nut is quite loose so off it comes. The bolt is turning easily so I go to drive the bolt out. It is solid. It spins but does not drive out. The swing arm is supported but as I spin the bolt the arm moves a little so I am guessing that the pivot bolt is bent, the long bearing is bent or the bolt is seized in the long bearing and the movement is just shot bearings. What a PITA. In for a cup of tea and a count to ten after a huge soaking of WD. It looks like my trusty junior hacksaw will be coming out soon. I MAY be able to cut the bolt each end where the thrust covers and shims are, if there is room. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted June 6, 2009 Moderator Share Posted June 6, 2009 Now ready for the swing arm. I unbolt the shock nut but where the bike is on the stand the bolt is in line with the frame so jack up the swing arm a little and drive the bolt out with ease. Now the swing arm to frame pivot bolt. The nut is quite loose so off it comes. The bolt is turning easily so I go to drive the bolt out. It is solid. It spins but does not drive out. The swing arm is supported but as I spin the bolt the arm moves a little so I am guessing that the pivot bolt is bent, the long bearing is bent or the bolt is seized in the long bearing and the movement is just shot bearings. What a PITA. In for a cup of tea and a count to ten after a huge soaking of WD. It looks like my trusty junior hacksaw will be coming out soon. I MAY be able to cut the bolt each end where the thrust covers and shims are, if there is room. This is a bit off topic speedo now but try this get a stout piece of tube like a scaffold pole piece or summat, now place the tube end around the swing arm pivot bolt head (protect your frame paintwork with something) and rest the other end against something solid like a wall, lean the bike into the wall to keep it in place, you may need a helper. Now as you strike the bolt head (leave the nut on at first, just loosen it) the frame will NOT flex now and your efforts will likely be rewarded...give it a try...it worked for me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted June 6, 2009 Author Moderator Share Posted June 6, 2009 Thanks OG, At the moment I am on my Hundreth spray of WD. I was looking at the tytrials website earlier and it looks like the TY has the same problem. They are advocating the hacksaw method but I may have to get the engine out to get to one side. I will give it until tomorrow with lot of WD and then try yours. Last resort is the hacksaw but I would like to save the bolt if it is true as they are lots of cash. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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