Aaronc Posted May 15, 2009 Posted May 15, 2009 I bought a 1980 XS400 (or 400XS) a year ago...while on the road my clutch cable snapped, it was then that I noticed that the casing is held in by some Allen Head bolts. It appears that there should be 6 or so, I only had 2 left. I have looked everywhere I can think of and can not find any info on these missing bolts. I am not an expert, but it seems that the casing being bolted on properly has something to do with the clutch catching. Any help? Aaron
wild foamy Posted May 16, 2009 Posted May 16, 2009 'fraid im not familiar with that particular bike, but on my DT the clutch mechanism is on the inside of the left casing, so if the case was held on too loose then you may have some problems with your clutch catching/releasing the bolts are just regular allen head bolts, available in most engineering suppliers or "hardware stores" i think you call them
Moderator mervin Posted May 16, 2009 Moderator Posted May 16, 2009 foamy is right abpout that i reckon search ebay someone will have a kit for sale i reckon merv
JimR Posted May 16, 2009 Posted May 16, 2009 I bought a 1980 XS400 (or 400XS) a year ago...while on the road my clutch cable snapped, it was then that I noticed that the casing is held in by some Allen Head bolts. It appears that there should be 6 or so, I only had 2 left. I have looked everywhere I can think of and can not find any info on these missing bolts. I am not an expert, but it seems that the casing being bolted on properly has something to do with the clutch catching. Any help? Aaron Hi Aaron, you will need Qty Dia Length 4 6mm 65mm 1 6mm 40mm With the cover loose the clutch will drag as the only thing holding the case instiu would be the gear change lever ! When you refit the bolts to the case it would be good practice to adjust the clutch, this is done by slackening the hadlebar adjuster completely off, then with the adjuster ,under the rubber bung in the left crank case cover, screw it in till resistance is felt then back it off about a ½ turn, then readjust the cable at the handlebar adjuster. Regards Jim
Moderator Cynic Posted May 16, 2009 Moderator Posted May 16, 2009 If you have ever worked with the rubbish quality fasteners the japs used on there bikes in the 80's you will quickly see the benefit of the allen jobbies. Are they shiny, if so they are more than likely stainless steel and they have a nasty habbit of coming loose on the outer covers. You really want a spot of low strength threadlock to keep them honest.
JimR Posted May 16, 2009 Posted May 16, 2009 If you have ever worked with the rubbish quality fasteners the japs used on there bikes in the 80's you will quickly see the benefit of the allen jobbies. Are they shiny, if so they are more than likely stainless steel and they have a nasty habbit of coming loose on the outer covers. You really want a spot of low strength threadlock to keep them honest. Hi Cynic, the XS motor came as standard with Allen bolts ! the O.E were oil blacked and looked good against the silver cases .. tbh the bolts to the rear left hand tended to sieze up and caused problems when all you needed to do was replace the broken clutch cable !!! Regards Jim
Moderator Cynic Posted May 16, 2009 Moderator Posted May 16, 2009 Hi Cynic, the XS motor came as standard with Allen bolts ! the O.E were oil blacked and looked good against the silver cases .. tbh the bolts to the rear left hand tended to sieze up and caused problems when all you needed to do was replace the broken clutch cable !!! Regards Jim Lucky b#stards, wish they had on the DT...... Had to use the electric spanner on most of mine.
JimR Posted May 17, 2009 Posted May 17, 2009 Lucky b#stards, wish they had on the DT...... Had to use the electric spanner on most of mine. Hi Cynic, the LC's did but perhaps Yamaha at the time were looking after the after market supliers of Allen bolts and also had a 'good deal' on all those pan head screws !!!! Regards Jim
Aaronc Posted May 18, 2009 Author Posted May 18, 2009 Thanks all for the responses. Thanks for the bolt dimensions Jim, they are not even listed in the repair manual I bought. I went to a few hardware stores (Lowes, Home Depot)...and they don't carry the lengths that I need. I am going to give the eBay idea a shot. ....Jim, I just realized you have answered a question I hadn't even asked yet (you are good). The clutch adjuster at the handle bar has always been "off". In order for the clutch to work like it should I had to adjust it to the point is was not quite attached to the handle bar...so the cable was always being pulled at an angle, which I am sure is why it had snapped previously. (not sure if I explained that right) ..but to clarify...I need to adjust it at the bottom while I hold in the clutch?
JimR Posted May 20, 2009 Posted May 20, 2009 Thanks all for the responses. Thanks for the bolt dimensions Jim, they are not even listed in the repair manual I bought. I went to a few hardware stores (Lowes, Home Depot)...and they don't carry the lengths that I need. I am going to give the eBay idea a shot. ....Jim, I just realized you have answered a question I hadn't even asked yet (you are good). The clutch adjuster at the handle bar has always been "off". In order for the clutch to work like it should I had to adjust it to the point is was not quite attached to the handle bar...so the cable was always being pulled at an angle, which I am sure is why it had snapped previously. (not sure if I explained that right) ..but to clarify...I need to adjust it at the bottom while I hold in the clutch? Hi Aaronc, I guess you need to adjust the clutch at the push rod end ( crank case cover ) before you take the slack from the cable. The case needs to be tightened up correctly so this adjustment can be made and follow the instructions from the previous post & then adjust the cable at the handle bar. This could work fine but bear in mind that the bike is a long way from being new and you may have to make sure the case & push rod adjuster along with the clutch lever pivot are in good condition if not you may need to replace some bits. Regards Jim
Aaronc Posted May 20, 2009 Author Posted May 20, 2009 Hi Aaronc, I guess you need to adjust the clutch at the push rod end ( crank case cover ) before you take the slack from the cable. The case needs to be tightened up correctly so this adjustment can be made and follow the instructions from the previous post & then adjust the cable at the handle bar. This could work fine but bear in mind that the bike is a long way from being new and you may have to make sure the case & push rod adjuster along with the clutch lever pivot are in good condition if not you may need to replace some bits. Regards Jim Well, I found the bolts using the dimensions you provided. It amazes me what the employees at these "Bike Shops" don't know. I am going to get it all put back together this afternoon (or attempt). Thanks again Aaron
JimR Posted May 21, 2009 Posted May 21, 2009 Well, I found the bolts using the dimensions you provided. It amazes me what the employees at these "Bike Shops" don't know. I am going to get it all put back together this afternoon (or attempt). Thanks again Aaron Hi Aaron, glad to hear the bike is on the mend !!! Regards Jim
Aaronc Posted May 22, 2009 Author Posted May 22, 2009 Hi Aaron, glad to hear the bike is on the mend !!! Regards Jim Ok Jim, so I have everything working but the only way I could get the clutch to catch 100% was to leave the one shorter screw un-tightened. So I'm sure that it will start working its way out. Any ideas? Thanks, Aaron
JimR Posted May 22, 2009 Posted May 22, 2009 Ok Jim, so I have everything working but the only way I could get the clutch to catch 100% was to leave the one shorter screw un-tightened. So I'm sure that it will start working its way out. Any ideas? Thanks, Aaron Hi Aaron, sounds like you have either a worn case or clutch gear (the bit that lives in the case) or both ... as long as you adjusted the clutch at the bottom end correctly.... and take into account that the clutch gear could be assembled and/or installed incorrectly Regards Jim
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