hate_camel Posted March 28, 2009 Share Posted March 28, 2009 So my first attempt to change my oil filter failed when under minimal effort i managed to destroy the heads of the screws holding the filter cover in place on my SR125. I mean how soft are these things?! The screwdriver managed to bore a big hole where there was once a screw head. Whats the best way to remove them now? Is it always this easy to destroy these screws or did the last guy just overtighten them? Anyway, oil change is done at least the bike isn't sidelined, bloody annoying though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted March 28, 2009 Moderator Share Posted March 28, 2009 Post a picture of the job and we'll have a better idea! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hate_camel Posted March 28, 2009 Author Share Posted March 28, 2009 Post a picture of the job and we'll have a better idea! Will do as soon as i get chance, i'm starting to understand why my dad spent the last 20 years saying 'i need a bloody garage', got interrupted twice today by hail storms, and then didn't get a chance to ride the thing by the time I'd finished, so frustrating! Anyway...i'll get those photos done, cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted March 28, 2009 Moderator Share Posted March 28, 2009 Will do as soon as i get chance, i'm starting to understand why my dad spent the last 20 years saying 'i need a bloody garage', got interrupted twice today by hail storms, and then didn't get a chance to ride the thing by the time I'd finished, so frustrating! Anyway...i'll get those photos done, cheers Yep its been a typical March day and ive got a garage (single) thats so full of stuff that I cant do anything in there, I'm frustrated too!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wild foamy Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 had to remove pleenty of buggered screws on my DT... sometimes they can be removed with mole grips, but if you have completely removed the heads you may have to drill down into the centre of the holes and get a screw removal tool (looks like a threading tap but in reverse and with coarse threads) failing that, if you can get at it from behind (like on a DT50 Sprocket, for example) yo can drill it from the other side and spin it out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fosdyke Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 had to remove pleenty of buggered screws on my DT... sometimes they can be removed with mole grips, but if you have completely removed the heads you may have to drill down into the centre of the holes and get a screw removal tool (looks like a threading tap but in reverse and with coarse threads) failing that, if you can get at it from behind (like on a DT50 Sprocket, for example) yo can drill it from the other side and spin it out What idiot puts 'screws' on an engine anyway?!?!?! I've had plenty a b*****d screw on the old YB (why design one bike that is held together with screws and the RS with bolts??? crazy!) My method was either to change the 'philips' screw to a flatblade with the aid of a junior hacksaw, or gently tap the screw free with a chisel (both worked and are preferable to the drilling option which takes ages and eats drill bits!) Oh and when you reassemble consider the following: 1. Use an allen headed bolt instead of a screw one (they are easier to get out) 2. Dab a little copperslip grease on the thread - you are going to have to have the b****r out again! Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted March 29, 2009 Moderator Share Posted March 29, 2009 As you get them out replace them with nice stainless allen head jobbies, never have the problem again. I'm rebuilding my DT engine and i have got getting the f.things out down to a fine art. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wild foamy Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 Stainless steel allen screws FTW, replaced the majority of the engine case screws on my DT with SS ones Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator mervin Posted March 29, 2009 Moderator Share Posted March 29, 2009 Got too agree with all that has been said so far always copaslip the stainless screws as they tend to cause the alloy to corrode around em if you dont, ok the cheese headed (made of cheese that is) cross heads, if they begin to slip/chew do not persist in trying to undo them, first make sure the screwdriver is the correct one for the screw, second take a punch of the same or larger diameter then the head and give the screw a firm blow to the head this will do 2 things 1 close the slots slightly ensuring a better fit and 2 may release the hold that a bit of corrosion has on the screw in side. it is useful to have the type of screwdriver that takes the small bits for this, because afterwards the screwdriver may be a tight fit , so tap the bit into the screw head and then you should be able to unscrew it, last but not least try an impact driver, this spins the screw as you hit it, but be careful only release the screw by hitting it if you do it too many times after the screw is loose you will strip the threads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JUST ME! Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 So my first attempt to change my oil filter failed when under minimal effort i managed to destroy the heads of the screws holding the filter cover in place on my SR125. I mean how soft are these things?! The screwdriver managed to bore a big hole where there was once a screw head. Whats the best way to remove them now? Is it always this easy to destroy these screws or did the last guy just overtighten them? Anyway, oil change is done at least the bike isn't sidelined, bloody annoying though! Geday mate. So you say the screws are now buggered. As such borrow a Dremel off someone and fitted with a good quality engraving tip gouge are large slot accross the head of each screw. Then get the appropriate regular bladed screwdriver and place a dab of course valve grinding paste on the head of the screw. This causes the blade of the screwdriver to bite better. For future purposes this works even better on Phillip's head as it reduces the climbing action due to the taper of the screwdriver tip. I get the old dental burrs from a local dentist as these are great quality even when too blunt for dental purposes. Hope this helps! Paul. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gas up - Let's Go! Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 These things work, but don't expect any quality - there are a 'use once' tool, but at £9 what do you expect. http://www.jmldirect.com/product.asp?pf_id...l_JMLDirect_IRE However, you do need to 'crack' the thread first, a sharp tap with a hammer & puch should do the trick. Otherwise it's a case of drilling and extracting. Problem is, you only really get one chance to get them out, and if it in Alloy then you are in danger of pulling the helicoil out with it (the steel insert that you tighten against). It all depends on the type of screw, location condition etc Once you get it out, copper grease everything - unless it needs to be thread locked!! I can't understand why they use screws either, or for the few quid extra cost in production why they don't use SS and lubricate then properly! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hate_camel Posted March 30, 2009 Author Share Posted March 30, 2009 Wow sounds like this is a common problem, well I'm glad I'm not the only one! Thanks for all your advice guys. Of course now the new oil is in I'll leave it a while before I attempt to get the screws out but when I do I will report back, replacing them with stainless steel allen bolts sounds like a great idea! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hate_camel Posted June 16, 2009 Author Share Posted June 16, 2009 Okay I know I'm resurrecting an old thread here, but I have just reminded myself that this job still needs doing. I know a few people said they had replaced screws with stainless steel allen head types, I was just wondering where you got them from, and how I can find out what size I need. Is it just a simple case of taking the old screws down to the nearest hardware shop and finding ones that look the same? No doubt I'm asking stupid questions here... I really am the product of an education system that puts no value on practical subjects (at least that's my excuse!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gas up - Let's Go! Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 Have a look on Ebay, there are a few sellers - some even do complete sets for named bikes. Usual search strings; SS, Stainless Steel Bolts, or search by you bike model, make etc. Once you find one you'll probably find they have an ebay shop where you can order what you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
little dave Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 http://www.asseenontvguys.com/index.asp?Pa...&ProdID=380 I will swear by this product till I find a better one. has helped me remove my fubar flywheel cover screws with no effort. also the bolthead that holds the rear brake cam onto the spindle broke on my bike and this tool was ready to tackle the job. there are 4 tips to choose from so if one dosent work, the next larger one usually will. completely reuseable, It has become the most valued item in my toolbox. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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