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Broken Bleed Nipple


Heppy
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Hi there

I am a new-ish member and I have an Sr125 which I got last August. Generally it's in really good nick, but I thought it was time to change the brake fluid. However, someone's been at the bleed nipple with something destructive and I can't crack it. It's almost completely smooth. Tried it with a spanner, a wrench, even pliers in the end but it simply won't budge. Does anyone have any suggestions or tricks which might help me to shift it, or an alternative method of changing the brake fluid which doesn't involve using the bleed nipple?

Many thanks

Heppy.

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Hi there

I am a new-ish member and I have an Sr125 which I got last August. Generally it's in really good nick, but I thought it was time to change the brake fluid. However, someone's been at the bleed nipple with something destructive and I can't crack it. It's almost completely smooth. Tried it with a spanner, a wrench, even pliers in the end but it simply won't budge. Does anyone have any suggestions or tricks which might help me to shift it, or an alternative method of changing the brake fluid which doesn't involve using the bleed nipple?

Many thanks

Heppy.

Hi Heppy,

I guess the nipple is well chewd up from your post so you have a few options :-

1) remove the caliper and use a freeing agent for a few days (on the caliper/nipple) and lock the nipple in a vice and use the caliper as the spanner, becareful as you could snap the nipple off :huh:

2} buy a new caliper (could be expensive)

3) Back bleeding the brake system may work but will rely on a good brake hose and plenty of time flicking the lever until all the air is removed from the brake curcit.

Regards Jim

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Bleed nipples are perfect for using an "easy out"

Easy outs" come in sets or indivudually from Toolshops if you know the size that you want

Bleed nipple all already have a nice hole right through them and it's only a matter of selecting an extractor ("easy -out") which is a tight fit in the hole

The princip[le is ---- the tool is like a very coarse threaded and very tapered tap.

It is hard just like a thread - tap but it is left handed ! ! !

Just tap the extractor into the hole with a light hammer then turn it anti - clockwise with a tap wrench (or small adjustable spanner)

The tool will quickly (within a turn) become so tight that it will unscrew the brocken piece (in your case the butchered nipple)

You should be able to do this in situ

DON'T BREAK THE EASY OUT --- APPLY COMMON SENSE ----- (with confidence -- it works)

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Why not just try using some good mole grips that tighten on to what it's gripping when you turn them (make sure you're using it the correct way round though, otherwise it will just slip).

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id second the "easy out option" they have always came up trumps for me mate.

i no it prob sounds a bit silly but remember *its only a bleed nipple* lol not the end of the world what ever happens..i used to have to be reminded constantly when i do stuff like that. your find the calm steady approach goes smoother than angry annoyed approach :D

good luck

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id second the "easy out option" they have always came up trumps for me mate.

i no it prob sounds a bit silly but remember *its only a bleed nipple* lol not the end of the world what ever happens..i used to have to be reminded constantly when i do stuff like that. your find the calm steady approach goes smoother than angry annoyed approach :D

good luck

Thanks again. I hav been checking online for general bleed nipple forums (and you get some wacky chat forums when you mix those words I can tell you) and other suggestions include a hammer and small screwdriver to loosen it with gentle taps, and also heating up the nipple very gently with a blowtorch. Are these sensible ideas? There isn't any real rush for me to change the fluid - although it looks a bit too yellow for comfort, but more than that I want to keep this old bike in the best condition I can. I'm just learning mechanics and don't want to fail at an early challenge. Slow and steady is right.

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I like the heat it up bit but dont try it until you have tried with no heat and dont overdo it, you dont want to damage the piston seals or boil the fluid, also remove some fluid from the reservoir first, to allow for a bit of expansion. Take care not to get brake fluid on to paintwork. Another idea is, if you are going to use an easy out, all well and good, but if youre using a mole grip device, to prevent crushing the hollow nipple push a drill shank of the correct size into the bleed hole before grasping with the grips, this will prevent crushing and mis-shaping the nipple...good luck with it

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Geday mate, this is how I approach that particular drama. Firstly remove the caliper and lock it in a vise with soft jaws. Heat the nipple quickly without making the nipple glow.Cool the nipple with WD40. Gently give the nipple 2 or 3 light blows with a small hammer. Get a slightly smaller, good quality single hex 1/4 drive socket and tap this on with a hammer. Try undoing with a small sliding T-bar whilst gently tapping bar with hammer. If this does not work then try the vice grip method. If this does not work get a bit of inch x 1/4 flat bar and drill a hole in it so as it is a tap on fit over the now completely rounded section then arc weld it on. Then use the flat bar as a spanner whilst gently tappng on the bar. If this does not work and you have not already broken the head off the nipple, cut the head off and buy a Dormer left handed drill bit slightly smaller than the thread size. If you have not used these before you will be amazed. Normally before you reach the full depth the remnants of the part unscrew with the heat and left hand forces of the drill. DO NOT use an easy out. There are some situations where they are useful and this is not one of them. Because of the limited wall thickness in relation to the diameter the easy out spreads the walls making the problem worse and if you happen to snap the easy out you ruin the left handed drill bit option. Take your time with it and you will remove it without damaging the caliper. HAVE A BLAST! Paul. Oh yeah if you try the welded on bar trick make sure the earth lead is on the bar and not the vice or caliper body so as you dont arc across from the piston to caliper bore!

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or buy a banjo bolt with a bleed nipple in it

Merv

Hi Mervin

Just reviewing some of the posts (thanks to all for your help) and I have a specific question about yours. I can see what a banjo bolt with a bleed nipple is, but cant see how I might use it to help me. :unsure: Can you just explain how I would use this. Sorry if this is a dunce question. Heppy.

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I like the heat it up bit but dont try it until you have tried with no heat and dont overdo it, you dont want to damage the piston seals or boil the fluid, also remove some fluid from the reservoir first, to allow for a bit of expansion. Take care not to get brake fluid on to paintwork. Another idea is, if you are going to use an easy out, all well and good, but if youre using a mole grip device, to prevent crushing the hollow nipple push a drill shank of the correct size into the bleed hole before grasping with the grips, this will prevent crushing and mis-shaping the nipple...good luck with it
Geday Oldgit, Nice trick re the bit of rod down the bore of the part! That is one that i'll be adding to my collection. HAVE A BLAST. Paul.
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