Dirty_Andres Posted July 13, 2008 Share Posted July 13, 2008 Hey everyone, I've just recently bought a 91 custom and have taken the entire last week getting it sorted, and I'm now really needing help in getting the bugger to start! My mate came round the other day and got it running(I'd previously taken the carb off for cleaning, so all the jets were and still are nice and clean, and the right type), although it would cut out when idling(he reckoned it was just flooding), so I took the carb off, checked the jets again, adjusted the float (by using an array of different measuring devices, including a tread depth guage) height and put it all back together. I think I should also add that I fully cleaned the air filter before all this aswell.... He also told me to charge the battery, so I did and today I killed the battery trying to start it(would just keep on chugging slower and slower untill the solenoid buzzed), so It's back on the charger just now. Stupidly enough, I checked the throttle stop screw and the vaccum take-off plug to make sure they were ok and forgot to write down how far in or out they were! ARG!!! Since then when trying to start my bike for the past two days, nothing has happened. The compression is fine, the engine is turning over and there is a spark, yet my engine is failing to start I can't make my mind up as to wether the engine is flooding, or just not getting enough petrol, as I tried turning off the fuel tap and adding a couple of drops of fuel directly into the cylinder, then starting it, but it still wouldn't start(yes the spark is jumping 6 mils or so) So I think that I've maladjusted the vacuum take off plug, the throttle stop screw and the float height and i don't have any tubing around with which to externally check the fuel height. What part of the bottom of the float are you supposed to measure(as it's curved) and when it says gasket face, does it mean the surface where the gasket lies or the lip around it? What settings are you supposed to have the throttle stop screw and vacuum take off plug(I replaced the sealing washer with an O ring, will it cause induction leaks?) ? What is the best method of measuring and setting your float height? Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirty_Andres Posted July 14, 2008 Author Share Posted July 14, 2008 ****UPDATE**** I checked the spark plug gap and it was way off, engine starts fine now, the only problem I have now is that the wonderful left/right hand side crank bearings are rumbling....bwah! So it looks like a bottom end overhaul for me.... Oh well at least I'll get to know the intimate workings of my motor If anyone here has ANY advice on how to best take her apart and put her back together properly then please let me know. Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jinxed Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 ****UPDATE**** If anyone here has ANY advice on how to best take her apart and put her back together properly then please let me know. Cheers! It's not too difficult to get the top end off; that's about as far as I've been with mine. Make a collection of plastic tubs for storing bits you take off and label them. (Pen, paper & digital camera to hand will help.) If you have space, you could lay out parts you remove as you go; this helps as some bolts are longer than others. e.g. engine casings. Keep bolts with the parts you remove OR in the place they screw into after removing an item. You will need some tools that might not be in your collection already; e.g. flywheel puller/extractor and a tool to lock the flywheel. You may also need a full set of gaskets. A manual would be really helpful of course; I've not found an electronic copy to date. I'd recommend tying some string around the cam chain too; stops it dropping into the engine when you finally get to put the head back on or allows you to recover it if it does!) Did you get a price for bearings yet? To be honest, I would just look for a spare engine; they can be had for <£100. Add in the cost of gaskets and any tools you don't have and it's starting to sound cheaper to get a running engine. I.e. I'd be tempted to run the existing engine into the ground and look for another. Engine swapping should take about half a day. Note that earlier engines have different electrical components to the later ones. (Not sure when they changed.) You may need to swap the generator over. (Swap the magneto/flywheel and retain your original LHS generator cover.) I'm surprised that the bearings are shot. (How many miles has this engine done?) It's a low strung engine and even if the oil has been neglected, other parts would have failed before the main bearings. (Have you checked the valve clearances and cam chain for instance, just in case the noise is not the bearings? Could be the big end I suppose.) Did you get a correct setting for your throttle stop screw? Where are you based? I could bring my hammer over ........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirty_Andres Posted July 17, 2008 Author Share Posted July 17, 2008 It's not too difficult to get the top end off; that's about as far as I've been with mine. Make a collection of plastic tubs for storing bits you take off and label them. (Pen, paper & digital camera to hand will help.) If you have space, you could lay out parts you remove as you go; this helps as some bolts are longer than others. e.g. engine casings. Keep bolts with the parts you remove OR in the place they screw into after removing an item. You will need some tools that might not be in your collection already; e.g. flywheel puller/extractor and a tool to lock the flywheel. You may also need a full set of gaskets. A manual would be really helpful of course; I've not found an electronic copy to date. I'd recommend tying some string around the cam chain too; stops it dropping into the engine when you finally get to put the head back on or allows you to recover it if it does!) Did you get a price for bearings yet? To be honest, I would just look for a spare engine; they can be had for <£100. Add in the cost of gaskets and any tools you don't have and it's starting to sound cheaper to get a running engine. I.e. I'd be tempted to run the existing engine into the ground and look for another. Engine swapping should take about half a day. Note that earlier engines have different electrical components to the later ones. (Not sure when they changed.) You may need to swap the generator over. (Swap the magneto/flywheel and retain your original LHS generator cover.) I'm surprised that the bearings are shot. (How many miles has this engine done?) It's a low strung engine and even if the oil has been neglected, other parts would have failed before the main bearings. (Have you checked the valve clearances and cam chain for instance, just in case the noise is not the bearings? Could be the big end I suppose.) Did you get a correct setting for your throttle stop screw? Where are you based? I could bring my hammer over ........ Hey mate, I bought the SR off of ebay. Some fucknut decided to flood the engine with petrol and leave it sitting for about 7 years!!!!! So when I changed the oil I got a lovely surprise(oil filter was totally fucked, and the gauze was full of crap). I'm going to check the valve clearances and the cam chain, as it may be them. Mileage is in the 12.000's, and seeing as how the last owners decided to flood the crankcase with petrol, I wouldn't be entirely surprised to find the bearings knackered. I got some bearings for 5 quid off of wemoto, looks like I'm going to need some gaskets, but for now I'm skint and awaiting some circlip pliers so I can replace my fork seals. A new engine isn't a bad idea, I bid on one on ebay but unfortunately had to withdraw, as I discovered to much dismay that I'm skint! Well at least untill the end of the month Oh well, at least I've got a Haynes manual... I'm located in scotland. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jinxed Posted July 21, 2008 Share Posted July 21, 2008 I'm located in scotland. Cheers If I start out now I should get to yours a week on Thursday on my SR ...... The petrol probably leaked into the engine whilst it was laid up. If it was run with the bottom end full of petrol/oil then this could have damaged the bearings I guess. Too bad. I don't know if its possible to feel if the crank bearings are worn by feeling for movement in the crank. (Remove the LHS casing.) Probably not; probably requires taking the bearings out. If there was a lot of petrol in the oil, another oil change might be needed. No point though if the engine is no good though. Roll on pay day! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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