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building spark plug wires


M.L.S.C.
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I just ordered a pair of coils, wires, and NGK plug caps from Mike's XS in FL. Great, but there's a twist - the wires don't have the caps attached to them, they all come separate and I'm supposed to put it all together myself. Well, I ain't never done such a job before, so can someone please enlighten me - how do I attach all those pieces together? Thanks!

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I just ordered a pair of coils, wires, and NGK plug caps from Mike's XS in FL. Great, but there's a twist - the wires don't have the caps attached to them, they all come separate and I'm supposed to put it all together myself. Well, I ain't never done such a job before, so can someone please enlighten me - how do I attach all those pieces together? Thanks!

the caps simply screw into the wire, put the rubber sleeve on the wire first then slide it over the cap when fitted, with the coils unscrew the knurled plastic nut at the front of the coil, inside that you will see a rubber grommet remove the grommet put the nut over the wire thread facing the coil, then place grommet over wire, inside coil you will see a metal pin push wire into coil over pin, then slide grommet and nut up to the threaded part of the coil and screw up, the nut and grommet will clamp the wire in

merv

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Thanks Mervin, that's exactly what I did, and it worked nice! However, I'm still having a no spark condition, so I measured the voltage at the power leads from the main wire harness, and I got steady 12V with the key on. That is 12V on all four leads (two per coil), both the red ones and the orange ones! I'm pretty sure that ain't normal, so what could cause it? Any ideas?

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Thanks Mervin, that's exactly what I did, and it worked nice! However, I'm still having a no spark condition, so I measured the voltage at the power leads from the main wire harness, and I got steady 12V with the key on. That is 12V on all four leads (two per coil), both the red ones and the orange ones! I'm pretty sure that ain't normal, so what could cause it? Any ideas?

red/white wire which is shared is 12v positive

the other wires grey and orange are from the contacts/CDI and earth out then open circuit to produce a spark at the plugs, make sure they are the right way round!!

check the condensor if you have contacts by opening the contact cover and looking for sparking over the contacts (there should'nt be any)

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So 12V key-on at the red/white wires is good, but 12V on the other set of wires should actually be ground? (coils unplugged, so no current flowing through them) I take it as the contacts cover you mention is the one on the left head of the engine, right above the spark plug? can you post a picture of how it should go in, and what I should look for, in terms of it being flipped around or something? Cause I've had that off before, and I didn't find nothing weird, but then again I probably didn't know what I'm looking at...

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So 12V key-on at the red/white wires is good, but 12V on the other set of wires should actually be ground? (coils unplugged, so no current flowing through them) I take it as the contacts cover you mention is the one on the left head of the engine, right above the spark plug? can you post a picture of how it should go in, and what I should look for, in terms of it being flipped around or something? Cause I've had that off before, and I didn't find nothing weird, but then again I probably didn't know what I'm looking at...

are you on contacts?

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are you on contacts?

I have no idea, the bike is 1980 so I think it should be using not the "points" (contacts?) but the newer system - coils have plastic plugs with spade connectors, vs. the older style individual bullet connectors, if that helps. When I remove the cap on the left side of the engine above the spark plug, there's a 2-blade rotor on the camshaft with something black around it with a single metal "notch", looks much like the magnetic pickup coil thingie in a Ford Duraspark distributor, and has only three wires coming off it.

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I have no idea, the bike is 1980 so I think it should be using not the "points" (contacts?) but the newer system - coils have plastic plugs with spade connectors, vs. the older style individual bullet connectors, if that helps. When I remove the cap on the left side of the engine above the spark plug, there's a 2-blade rotor on the camshaft with something black around it with a single metal "notch", looks much like the magnetic pickup coil thingie in a Ford Duraspark distributor, and has only three wires coming off it.

yep that's electronic ignition, still works on the same principle but its the box which gets the coils to fire. make sure its earthed properly undo bolts clean and retighten to make sure (a dab of copper grease whould help).

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yep that's electronic ignition, still works on the same principle but its the box which gets the coils to fire. make sure its earthed properly undo bolts clean and retighten to make sure (a dab of copper grease whould help).

Drewpy, and where would that box be? On the under side of the battery tray?

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