Bilbo515 Posted June 9, 2008 Share Posted June 9, 2008 I need some help please! I have just seen my dream bike a YZF750 and finally it's in my price bracket and nearby!! Initially the pictures look good, it's got 17K on the clock and is a 1994 model. I have been trawling the internet for buyers guides and found very little. So can anyone give some advice on what to look for when buying one of these awesome bikes? What should I look for when looking round the bike? What should I look for on the test ride? EXUP Valve issues - what should I look for, will an aftermarket exhaust system affect it? Burning Oil - Is this an issue? It has a polished frame -is this a good or bad sign? Any advice big or small will be much appreciated, I am going to look at the bike one day this week, will keep you all posted. Many thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R1evad Posted June 11, 2008 Share Posted June 11, 2008 Right where do we start! Check all the obvious stuff, Tyres Chain, untoward noises, CLUTCH SLIP (don`t use fully synthetic oil unless running a EBC paper clutch) And general condition etc. Check all the mileages on all the MOT`s to make sure they rise steadily and not 12k between one year and 200miles between all the rest I had the HAYNES MANUAL `97 red white and black bike for a few years and it was a stonker. And really good fun at the `Ring! A fit standard one will produce 115/120 ponies on a dyno and the frame and suspension, if in good nick, will handle that well enough. (The same basic frame was used with the 1002cc exup engine on the Thunderace) If the front end damping is a bit sloppy, the usd forks respond quite well to 15w oil instead of the standard 10w. They are solid reliable busses, but as with anything that old, the individual example you are looking at has a unique history, so ask LOTS of questions. EVERY 2nd hand bike you view has been stolen, raced, crashed, is on finance and is just about to blow up, until proven otherwise! Things to look for specifically on this model. If it is a `94 model it should have a switch on he left side fairing panel for fuel reserve, Make sure it is working ok and connected up. you do not want to be running in the reserve position all the time, as when you run out you will be walking. Exup valves are known to get sticky, but more importantly make sure the servo motor fires when you turn the ignition on. It is just inside the frame rail under the base of the tank on the right hand side. You should hear it whining. At the same time check to see the cables that run to the exup are moving freely. With the rear seat off, you should find a little lever to release the rider seat, pull that and take the rider seat off. check all the electrics under the seat and the battery. After market exhausts rarely gain power on this model and more often spoil the flow, especially if the exup is removed / not working. There is a lot of valve overlap on a five valve head and back pressure is critical. Make sure you have a road legal can for MOT`s The standard six pot callipers are good when they are looked after, but like a lot of yams of that era are not keen on being neglected after a winters layup, especially if stored wet / salty. They do free up fairly easily, but are a bit more fiddley to do than the larger pistons found on four pot versions. Speedo cables can work loose at the hub end ad result in a clicking jumpy speedo needle, or a complete non runner. If left to run notchy, the inner cable gets damaged, but is simple to replace. My `97 had about 20k on it when I sold it and used to go through about a litre of oil every 1000 miles, but never blew smoke, They just "use"it. Should be ok as long as there are no oily deposits in the exhaust end pipe, and no puddles under the machine. If it blows blue smoke at any time, cold or hot, you will be sending off for a new visa card! POLISHED FRAMES. There is usually only one reason to polish a frame / swingarm and that is to remove evidence of some form of damage. Same with frame protectors, which usually go on AFTER the accident to cover it up, not before. SEE ABOVE Having said that, some people genuinely like the effect and are happy to spend hours needlessly buffing up the frame, rather than riding the bike What does the rest of the bike look like in the flesh, if it is polished all over and you can eat your dinner off the engine casings, then it`s maybe genuine. Your HPI check will tell if it has had a major. Test ride CHECK THE TYRE PRESSURES BEFORE YOU GO 36psi/2.5bar FRONT. 42psi/2.9bar REAR. It will handle like a pig if hey are too low. Esp the front. The standard front discs are known to warp if have had heavy track day type use. Easily spotted on your road test as a pulsing (ABS like) feeling through the lever. If it has after market discs, then that`l be why. (budget £300 to replace and negotiate accordingly) Ride the bike on a dead straight smooth road,(at a decent legal pace) and gradually relax your grip on both bars till you are hovering your hands a few millimeters away. as the bike starts to slow down, see that it runs straight, and doesn`t try to "shimmy" or shake it`s head. (Twisted/bent forklegs, yokes) Also feel for any fore and aft movement in the bars when comming on the gas and the braking. (headrace bearings) All in All keep your eyes and ears well and truly open, and buy it if you are happy. A decent YZF ridden hard like it was meant to be, will bring a big smile to your face, and you will still have some low down grunt for pootling about. They don`t need to be screamed about like the 600`s of the day, and is its pretty comfortable too, so you should be sorted for some long distance stuff. I loved mine, but was seduced by a tidy MkI Fireblade, which is another story altogether! Keep us posted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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