jinxed
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Posts posted by jinxed
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I'm located in scotland.
Cheers
If I start out now I should get to yours a week on Thursday on my SR ......
The petrol probably leaked into the engine whilst it was laid up. If it was run with the bottom end full of petrol/oil then this could have damaged the bearings I guess. Too bad. I don't know if its possible to feel if the crank bearings are worn by feeling for movement in the crank. (Remove the LHS casing.) Probably not; probably requires taking the bearings out.
If there was a lot of petrol in the oil, another oil change might be needed. No point though if the engine is no good though.
Roll on pay day!
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****UPDATE****
If anyone here has ANY advice on how to best take her apart and put her back together properly then please let me know.
Cheers!
It's not too difficult to get the top end off; that's about as far as I've been with mine. Make a collection of plastic tubs for storing bits you take off and label them. (Pen, paper & digital camera to hand will help.) If you have space, you could lay out parts you remove as you go; this helps as some bolts are longer than others. e.g. engine casings. Keep bolts with the parts you remove OR in the place they screw into after removing an item. You will need some tools that might not be in your collection already; e.g. flywheel puller/extractor and a tool to lock the flywheel. You may also need a full set of gaskets. A manual would be really helpful of course; I've not found an electronic copy to date. I'd recommend tying some string around the cam chain too; stops it dropping into the engine when you finally get to put the head back on or allows you to recover it if it does!)
Did you get a price for bearings yet? To be honest, I would just look for a spare engine; they can be had for <£100. Add in the cost of gaskets and any tools you don't have and it's starting to sound cheaper to get a running engine. I.e. I'd be tempted to run the existing engine into the ground and look for another. Engine swapping should take about half a day. Note that earlier engines have different electrical components to the later ones. (Not sure when they changed.) You may need to swap the generator over. (Swap the magneto/flywheel and retain your original LHS generator cover.)
I'm surprised that the bearings are shot. (How many miles has this engine done?) It's a low strung engine and even if the oil has been neglected, other parts would have failed before the main bearings. (Have you checked the valve clearances and cam chain for instance, just in case the noise is not the bearings? Could be the big end I suppose.)
Did you get a correct setting for your throttle stop screw? Where are you based? I could bring my hammer over ........
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Thanks for the ideas, that'll give me another couple of things to check.
It doesn't get through oil terribly and never smokes so I don't think it's piston wear, rear brake used to bind, but sorted that out when I changed the brake shoes a month or so ago.
Check your valve clearances; are they wildy out? Check compression too, in case the valves aren't closing fully. A carb strip & clean isn't a bad idea either. How's the air filter? Is the bike noisier than before?
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hi i am have some troble with my bike it is a yam sr125 1994 it keeps cutting out when i am riding it some times it will start and some times it wont but i have tried every thing i can think ov i am good with bikes and cars but this has got me stumped
(thing i have done)
new carb second hand
new ht lead and cap
new spark plug
coil
cdi unit
cleaned the tank new petrol
cheaked all the wirering
When it doesn't start: (Turn petrol off)
1) Check for a spark. (Remove plug, reconnect ht lead and crank it over. (Keep hands & other body parts away from plug!)
2) Drain carb bowl by opening the drain screw at the bottom; any petrol in it?
Have you tried bypassing any side-stand or clutch safety cut-out switches this bike has? Presumably, it will always turn over on the starter but not fire up? Does it do this from cold or hot or both?
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It's worth giving the carb "tubes" a blow through with an air compressor. (One of the ones you plug into you car lighter socket; not a garage type inflator!) Also, check you spark plug is clean & gapped properly and suitably tight. If you let your fuel run really low, you may have pulled through all the crud at the bottom of the tank and it could be blocking the fuel tap and/or carb. If you pul the fule line off the carb and open the fuel tap, does the petrol flow freely?
Taking off the carb and cleaning it out would be worth doing.
Maybe you got some bad fuel? I didn't think such an engine would be happy with higher octance fuel; would you need to change the plug for a different one?
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hey there folks, I'm newly registered and delurking - in need of some advice. I have an sr125 (1997) which following a simple carb strip (crud in the fuel) and rebuild is sounding a bit funny.
I'd got the engine running and warm, and was adjusting idle speed (screw in side of carb ~1.25 turns out from fully in), pilot screw (1.5 out) etc, and then gave her a rev up. Cue much rattling from the top end, so I stopped the engine, and when it was cool found that the inlet valve adjuster lock nut had come loose and worked its way to the top of the adjuster.
So, I adjusted the valves, rotating the engine to TDC on the compression stroke and setting the gaps, tightened the lock nuts properly. So far so good.
When I started the engine again and got it idling nicely, I was aware of an intermittent noise from it. Walked outside the garage, where I could hear the engine put-put-putting away like it used to, but every now and then I could hear a sort of "dink" noise, like two bits of metal hitting each other at high speed. No real rhythm, just the unsettling noise every now and again. Oil is new, changed <100 miles ago. Timing seems to be ok, all connectors/jubilee clips/header bolts etc. properly tightened. 42k miles.
Anyone come across this sort of thing? What might it be?
The one thing I noticed about the cam followers, was that they were quite "loose" at anything other than TDC on the compression stroke - there seemed to be a lot of free play in there, which I'm not sure is normal - or is it on sr engines? And if it is't normal, where could the problem lie (without taking the head off)?
TIA,
Nigel
Might it be "pinking"? I.e. pre-ignition. Can you check your ignition timing? To be honest, mine makes so much noise anyway that I probably wouldn't know if it was doing the same. 42K miles is quite impressive on that beast; has it been apart recent for major engine surgery?
If you have set the valve clearances correctly, then there shouldn't be much play as you describe. (The clearances are posted in another thread.) Is there more clearance on one side of the valve top than the other? Maybe the camshaft bearing is worn? (One of mine was; the end that the chain fits over would move up & down with the camchain removed!)
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I've got a hammer and a selection of crowbars - fairly sure that I can make it fit...
(will probably need to modify the exhaust mounts 'though
)I was thinking of open headers; I don't want to draw too much attention to myself though ........
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The carb comes off quite easily. Remove fuel pipe (use a rag to catch the drips); undo "jubilee" clips on engine and airbox side - nice & loose; unscrew top to remove slide assembly. (Remove carb heater connector if you have one; mine doesn't.) I think that's it; you can do this without removing seat & tank. Have rag handy again as they'll be plenty of fuel leaking out when you tip the carb over.
Did you try adjusting the idle yet? Be a shame to strip the carb down if the idle is just too low. How does it run on the choke?
Any recommend a good solvent for cleaning carbs? I know of someone who had his carbs cleaned untrasonically & wasn't too impressed with the results.
I got my SR for £80. Admittedly, it didn't run and someone had closed the garage door on it & dented the tank. That was over 10 year ago. It's gone downhill since then .........
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Do you know what insurance category the loss was recorded under? (http://www.motorcycle.co.uk/insurance_write_off.htm) Hopefully, it's falls into a category that it can be re-registered. You'll need to apply for the V5, which is £17 I think, and the local Police vehicle inspector will want to pay you a visit. (Don't panic, they're helpful! They may be able to find/recover the original frame number.) It may take a few months to get it all sorted though. Ideally, the original frame number can be re-instated and you can get the original registration too. (I.e. no Q plate.)
It looks very clean. How old is it?
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hi there does the rxs100 have points or electric ignition
It may depend on the age, but more than likely it's electronic. How old is your RXS? (I had an '85 RXS years ago and that had the usual CDI type ignition system, AFAICR.)
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How old is your SR?
mine was 82, and it did 43k
My SR is '86 and ~27K miles. It's been to Helen-back and it looks like it. (Sorry to hijack this thread!) The Thunderace presumably uses the FXR1000EXUP motor or derivative of, which was pretty solid, so there's a good start. Did you check out http://www.bikersoracle.com/thunder/forum/ yet?
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i have a 95 sr125 and it bump starts but will not start on the button it tries to turn on the button but then sort of gives up i know the batterys not flat because all the lights still work. if anyone has any ideas what the problem maybe i would really appreciate it, cheers dan
When you say "gives up" you mean gets slower until it just stops turning? Unfortunately, working lights means enough power to work the lights and not necessarily enough power to turn the starter. Have you tried jump starting it with jump leads from another vehicle? (Be careful attaching the jump leads, there is not much space around the battery terminals.)
Heed the excellent suggestions of the SR125 bretheren who have already spoken. Your battery is flat; how old is it?
I jump start mine all the time at the moment, well in the mornings anyway. The battery is sick and the weather isn't helping; after I've run it to work, there is enough charge in the battery to get one start attempt. I carry my start'n'charge battery pack with me. I need a new battery!!!
Out of interest, is anyone else using an oversized battery? I believe the standard item is a 12N7, but I've been using a 12N9 for a while. (I borrowed it off another bike when the original battery died.) I bought a (cheap) 12N7 replacement, which barely lasted the year before it gave up. The old 12N9 went back in and has been giving excellent service until lately. (This 12N9 battery could well be 10 years old!)
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After ordering a flywheel puller I was finally able to complete my engine swop. The replacement engine keeps the flywheel, flywheel engine casing and carb. (The newer carb is similar, but has a wire attachment that the original carb doesn't. Not sure if this connection is a heater or sensor, but my loom has no wire for it.)
It started fairly easily too; I've not done any road test yet, but the biggest difference I noticed was the noise. The replacement engine is quiet; by comparison, the other engine sounds like its full of gravel! I'll take it for a test run and then treat it to an oil change. (Looking forward to it! Hoping it might be a bit faster too.)
Big thanks to sr125shell for finding a puller for me.
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I ordered one of those pullers & it turned up really promptly; useful piece of kit. A few hours later and I had swopped the engines over on the SR. Thanks for the shopping tip!
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was exactly like this one on ebay - item number 250186074942 - hope it helps
Thanks! I'll take a look at that one. For some reason, I thought that the tensioner could be replaced once the head & barrel was removed; why remove the flywheel?
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hi alex,i have seen a engine here in the uk,its on e bay,dont know if this is any help to you,i use e-bay quite a lot for my fz600,cheers,tufty1066,
Pre dizzy XJ600 is the same engine, no? Less likely to have been revved to the ragged edge too; maybe.
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Ooh! Can I ask where you got your flywheel remover from and what size it is?
Way to go fixing it yourself!! I hope it lasts longer than one of my repairs!
Ahh! (0h, ahh?) Just seen your other post. I had measured mine at 16mm, but good to hear I measured it right. I think the rear axle from another of the bikes will fit, but I don't want to mangle the axle.
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HI, my cam chain tensioner blade was basically ripped in two somehow + the throttle cable looked a little damaged- I`m guessing the previous owner had over-tightened it (they are automatically tensioned from 1997 I believe so don`t need adjustment). I did all the work myself & spent quite a few quid on tools such as flywheel remover, impact wrench, strap wrench, impact sockets, torque wrench, good spanner set & a Haynes manual.
It took me quite a while as it was my first attempt at taking an engine apart, cost a bit in parts (£26 cam tensioner blade, about £20 in gaskets for cylinder head, barrel & generator + £16 for a throttle cable) but as the garage wanted £150 just to fit the blade I thought sod that! plus I cleaned up piston & rings etc & everything else I had access to. I very carefully put it all back together.
Bike is running fine at the moment so I must`ve done something right!
Get yourself a Haynes manual for starters Angela
Ooh! Can I ask where you got your flywheel remover from and what size it is?
Way to go fixing it yourself!! I hope it lasts longer than one of my repairs!
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Check the final drive; i.e. all sprockets tight, nothing jammed againt or touching the chain. Rear axle is tight?
Is this noise only when the bike is moving? What if you have the bike on the main stand, apply the rear brake and then try to let the clutch out? (Engine running of course, keep dogs/cats/kids away from the rear wheel!) Whilst on the main stand, try rotating the front wheel too. (Get that dog/cat/kid to sit on the pillion seat to drop the rear end down.)
Check the rear brake caliper too and any linkages. Does the sound change if you do/don't use the rear brake when slowing down?
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Live long, drink beer and ride bikes and women
I think you'll find that's a contradicting statement.
I guess I need some guidance from you MEN folk about what MEN do all day & night.
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I'm a biker not a fucking vicar you nob!
What are the guidelines for using colourful language in this forum?
What are the guidelines for advertising other forums in this forum?
What are the guidelines on incorrect spelling for this forum?
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Hi, first post so hello all.
Just bought myself a little DT125 to rebuild as its a bit tatty, its a 1990 H-reg. With the bike I got a spare engine thrown in but its from a 2002 bike. Will the engine fit stright in? And will the parts be interchangable?
The other question was the later engine has the power valve assembly and control unit still conected and I want to use that on the bike but i have noticed that the connections for the control unit are different. Would it be possible to buy a wiring harness from a later DT and fit it to my bike? Would i also need to buy a CDI unit for this? Or would it be easier to get a control unit which fits the existing harness?
Thanks
Hmmm. You may find that other things may also be different between the two engines. (E.g. generator; ignition pickup; temp sensor.) I'd be tempted to keep an engine with it's original CDI, reg/rectifier and loom; if the connectors are different then there is probably a reason why. (The powervalve may require completely different ignition/control components that are not interchangeable with the earlier bike.)
Also, if you are planning on riding this on the road, it may affect your insurance if you inform them that the engine is different. What's wrong with the original engine? If it's just that the piston/rings are worn, I'd be tempted to get a pattern piston kit instead of trying to fit the new engine. (Sell the later engine; use the proceeds to fix the original engine.)
If it's just for field use, the later engine would be better I suspect. Get hold of the wiring diagrams for both bike models for comparison. I think getting a loom for the 2002 engine would be your best bet if you choose this route.
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Hi jinxed thanks for the reply
cool, I wont worry about the warm up time , I was just a little intrigued by the way if its been running on full choke for 5 mins, if you put the choke in it will eventually putter out and die, must just take an age to get up to temp (especially in this weather)
I'll have to have a good read through the workshop manual that came with the bike and check the levels and work out how I would adjust the action on the selector lever ( I assume thats what you meant might need adjusted)
It's ok I didnt plan on putting anything on the rack anyway, might take it off actually when i start fiddling with her, need to ditch the foam grips aswell so I'm putting together a wee list of jobs to do. I didnt look under the gaiters, I know I should have but the bike had a full MOT, and is in about as good condition as 15 year old bikes get I think, I've seen year old bikes looking alot worse, this one really is mint condition apart from a wee scratch on the tank, a couple on the mirror edges and a tiny scratch on the left of the fairing. Fella I bought it off kept it in a little shed so that explains those. It's also been a summer dry use bike only
Yeah its not the lightest bike but compared to the gs500 I learned on its not that bad, but it feels a ton faster, just wish I had the weather now, not a fan of this cold wet windy weather and the nice greasy roads we have in Scotland
And yeah it was a private sale, £750 which I'm happy with, it's alot of bike for the money and nothing too scary for a novice, oh and it's a bloody good looking thing aswell.
When I was looking for a bike, I saw a few GS500s in such a poor state after only a few years. Then, we came upon the 2 year old XJ and I was sold. (I.e. back in 1993! Yours must have be made in their final year of production.)
The tyres are quite narrow for a bike of this power; the weight/power works well 2-up though. When I replaced the sprockets on mine, I managed to damage the bolts on the rear sprocket carrier and I had to drill them out. New ones from Yamaha weren't too cheap. The alloy parts corrode, presumably where the laquer gets scratched off.
A scottoiler is a good investment for a bike of this size BTW.
I don't envy you riding this beast in Scotland in the winter. I'll (hopefully) be using the SR125 when the weather gets colder; even the GPZ seems too heavy/unwieldy when the road temperature drops to 0degC. Mine did get to Scotland once on the way to NI one October; some fine roads you have up there for riding.
Ride safely & enjoy it. There aren't too many of these left now.
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Thanks! How about doing a page per week? In three years, I should have the complete manual!!
Does the manual happen to mention what size puller is required to remove the magneto?
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sr125 Exhaust Valve
in Yamaha Workshop
Posted
I have bought one recently, though I can't remember where from! Try your local friendly bike place; they should be able to order directly from Yamaha for you. (I suspect this part will be Yamaha supplied only. I.e. no pattern parts available.)