Cy Welch
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Posts posted by Cy Welch
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Hi Everyone,
Trying to get my calipers off the mounting brackets to replace the pads but they wont seem to come off! They caliper moves in the bracket but they don't pull out! Am I missing a step here or something?
Thanks
There is a philips screw on the inside of the caliper that holds onto the pads which do NOT come off with the caliper. You must remove the screw to get them off as the pads don't come off the brackets until the caliper is off.
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Moto...sspagenameZWD1V
EBC #513 front shoes. Can anyone verify that 513 is the correct EBC part code?
How difficult is removing the front wheel? Other than appyling plenty of grease, anything else I should know?
Thanks!
It's one of them. IIRC one is 513 and the other is 516.
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it should say in your manual what the correct float height is, before you go bending anything check to see if the floats are already at the right height, then we can eliminate this as being the problem.
make sure it is nice and warm before you start tinkering with the tuning side of things.
sounds to me like it is running rich when you open the throttle, my DT sometimes does that when i start it up first thing and have maybe left the fuel tap open, it clears itself after a few seconds though. if your floats are already at the right height then maybe try a smaller jet.
surely raising the needle would richen the mixture?
These 80's 400's are known for being exremely lean and putting on pod filters tends to make them more lean. So it's common to either have to go to bigger jets, but in some cases just raising the fuel level in the carbs will do the trick as well.
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The bike had been sitting for a while prior to me buying it. When I spin the front tire, it won't rotate freely. So i tried adjusting the brake cable both at the handlebars and at the brake itself. No luck. Could the cable be bad? The spring inside the drum assembly may be old and need replaced?
Any ideas are appreciated.
It's common in my experience with these bikes for the shoes to stick to the drum and for the brake material to unstick from the shoes because of corrosion. I was able to get mine back working by getting new shoes and using emery paper to sand the drum and then putting it together (make sure to grease all the pivot and slide points) and riding. I did have to put a new set of shoes in after about 4000 miles because the first set wore out fast. The second set is wearing nicely though as the drum is nice and smooth again after using them for a while. Same can happen to the rear brake as well, and the same fix would be in order. Frankly finding new good drums can be very hard for these bikes, so it's important to do your best to rehab what you have if possible. Front shoes can be a bit hard to find for a decent price, but so far I have always been able to find them after looking for a few days on ebay.
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its not electric and there is no screw on the throttle so im leaning toward a carb issue i guess...does any one have any advice?
Have you made sure the throttle cable is moving freely and that the return spring on the carb is not broken?
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Well, I rethreaded the axle end... put the nut back on there, and tried whacking it with a hammer. Still no go...
I'm thinkin i could try cutting a notch in the spacer, then beating it with a cold chisel/hammer to try and rotate it around the axle, and get that rust broken free.
But in the meantime, I'm wondering if i can put it back together and see if the rear drum will work. It seems like it works fine when you operate it by hand on the stand. Would yours do that, Cy?
I'm wondering if maybe rust between the backing plate and/or pin and the shoes was keeping my brake from operating smoothly. I sprayed some PB Blaster and lubricating oil around thru the side of the drum, and maybe with the adjuster freshened/tightened, and some more use, I could get lucky and it'll work?
But in any case, still gotta get that spacer/axle out someday to change tires....
It matches the symptoms of the brake material being stuck to the drum and off the shoes. That is NOT safe! Also any oil/grease into the brake area is NOT a good idea. You NEED to get that axle out. Have you tried getting a vise grip on the spacer and then rotating the axle while holding the spacer in place?
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Well, I need some assistance trying to figure out how to get this rear axle out.
I finally got it to rotate by using a big line-up bar thru the hole in the end, and hitting it with a hammer. But, the axle is stuck inside the big spacer just on the other side. Every time I rotate the axle, the spacer just spins with it, and its stuck in there so that it won't let me slide the axle out the end. I can't get a solid whack on the line-up bar to get the axle outward. I tried holding the spacer with channellock pliers while rotating, and still no go.
I've got the adjuster freed up finally, and sprayed some grease inside the drum, and maybe it'll be enough to get rear brake functioning alright. I'll have a re-threading die tomorrow for the other side, so I may just try putting it back together as is.. but I'm still gonna have to get that axle out someday if I want to change the tires, which it needs really bad.
Leave the nut part way on the axle and hit that. As for the brakes, sounds like the shoe material has stuck to the drum and come off the shoes. That happened to me. You can get new shoes on ebay and then when you get the wheel off you can get the shoe material free and sand the drum braking surface. It won't be great for a while, you will probably go through the first set of shoes fast so get two of them. Mine has just gotten to the point of working right again after sitting for over 10 years, still got some work to go on it, but it's going pretty nice so far.
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I had a similar problem. Smoke all out of the exhaust port on the head. It turned out to be bad valve seals. Just replace those. My valve springs where a bitch to get off, but it isn't a bad job.
The valve cover is only sealed with liquid gasket. It was the later year XS (post 83?) that had a valve cover gasket.
And it can be a real pain to get that valve cover to seal properly. It can work the first time if your lucky, but it took me 4 tries before it sealed properly.
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The OH and i have booked a holiday to South Beach, Miami on 29th June for 10 days.
I was wonderingif any of our cousins across the pond live anywhere near there who might fancy meeting up for a beer or to show us the sights one day?
Its a while off yet, but the best laid plans and all that
Sorry, wrong side of the country (got me bummed out now). I'm sure someone has got to be somewhere in that area though.
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Oh, and I figured out that I can start it simply with a screwdriver into the starter button hole (apparently jumping ground from switch case to button). Plus, I get a solid 14.5V when idling or revving, so I figure that the charging system and voltage regulator are OK. I also figured out it'll run fine without a battery connected to it, despite dying the other day whenever I disconnected the battery. what up with that?
I don't think I've got enough foot power to get it to start with just the kick starter though.
Still, I might take it for a ride at least around the yard or the block in the next couple of days, with or without a battery or front brake.
Autozone wants 50 bucks for a battery, and local yamaha dealer was closed today so I havent asked them yet.
Try walmart, they have a good price on the right battery (it's what I have in my xs400). It won't run without a battery, it's required for the charging system to work and the battery MUST be good.
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1973 YAMAHA 360 RT1 ENDURO. HANDS DOWN THE BEST BIKE GOING & GOING & GOING.
Ok, I gotta chime in. They just don't make them like they used to. I think the best of all time is the XS1100. Lots of power, and just lives up to the name (eXcSive). Rock solid awsome bike. Actually I'd have to say that the XS line was the best line that Yamaha ever made.
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If its a hydraulic clutch, it may need bleeding
Also isn't the R6 a wet clutch like other Yamaha's? I don't think you can get a burning clutch smell with a wet clutch, it may though be brakes if the pads are dragging.
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Hi,
Would you be willing to send me the unit for a reasonable sum if it works? I'm sure we could come to some arrangements.
Many Thanks
I think we could work something out. Us XS11 owners need to stick together. I'll let you know as soon as I get the new tank and get it installed.
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It`s the way they do it in France.
If a bike is aproching you then the rider will give you a wave below the level of the bars in the form of two fingers in the form of a V, (this is not normaly done on motorways ) if a bike over takes you then a they will normaly wave with the right leg as they pass you, if you overtake a car and he pulls over for you then it is polite to acknowldge him/her by waving your right leg, car drivers in France are more `bike aware` than in any other country, and will move over for you, weather in town, in traffic or the open road and usualy they will indicate there invitation to overtake by putting on there left or right indicators.
May be a bit different than the `states` where i belive you can`t even filter in traffic, or if you exceed 55mph it`s a hanging offence
The states are a little bit like Europe in that each state has it's own traffic laws. In California where I am filtering/lane splitting is both allowed and actually encouraged. As far as speed it varies again state by state but most have speed limits of about 65MPH or so, and many places around here if your not doing at least 70 you will get run over. Road rage is bad here, and talk about the idiots not see bikes! I'm glad my 1100 has really loud horns because when an idiot pull into my lane almost into me I hit the horn and he got back in his lane until I was clear of him.
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they HAVE to be jokes right? I can't belive peeps would be that thick
I have reached the point that nothing surprises me when it comes to the stupidity of people.
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You got it. With driving on the wrong side of the road, it's difficult to give a wave, as you'd need to use the right hand and that would take your hand of the gas.
See it more and more over here too now.
I've done quite a bit riding throughout Europe, and to be honest I would say that the British drivers are the second worst, only being beaten by the Italians - really, the standard of driving over there is very dangerous indeed, and I've been through Poland, Bulgaria and Romania where road rules are more loose guidlines than actual rules, and where road surfaces defy definition. I would say that the French driving is very good on the whole.
Ok, I don't get this. We drive on what you call the wrong side of the road, and when I wave to another rider it's with my left (clutch) hand which is the hand on the oncoming traffic side. If I wave for some reason to someone on the other side I just wave up high rather than low like normal.
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Hi Everyone,
Anyone know where i can get a fuel sender from for an 1978 XS1100. It appears there is no earth coming from the unit. However would this repair if i take it out?
Many Thanks
Mike
Well, I expect that I'll have an extra soon as I have a tank coming that has the sender (assuming it works) to replace my existing tank which has a leak (PO appears to have poked a hole just behind the right side petcock).
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Golden. Thank You.
I cant really take a pic, not at the moment, but they're on top of the carbs, on the engine side, maybe 12mm from the outlet to the engine. By your description, they're definitely fuel screws. Alright, i'll play with that next.
from what i've read, these particular carbs won't let you adjust the needles, not even with shims/washers. You have to go buy aftermarket needles with clips.
Thanks for the info. I'll twiddle on the bike in the next few days and give a report.
On the 80 carbs turning the screw out richens the mixture. Also if adjusting the mixture doesn't help the off idle problems you might be able to raise the fuel level about 1 mm. You may have to turn them out a good bit as it sounds like it's very lean.
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a PO of my newly acquired '95 XJ600 painted the windscreen with a bee-yoo-tiful purple enamel. any ideas on how to get the paint off without wrecking the plastic?
thanks
If it won't peel easily then it was properly prepped which means it's not coming off. Best bet would be to replace the windscreen.
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got it off CMM
Ok, I can't take it anymore Drewpy, just what is your avatar there?
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Jeans and high heels ! I saw a girl on the back of a bike this year, flip flops and a bikini .....made my teeth curl at the thought of what would happen in a smash.
Oh and that picture of the road.....try cutting it down to half it's width, add some bumpy tarmac repairs, hedges either side, some manhole covers on the cornering line, smear it with mud and cow shit and that'll give you an idea of British roads. How they do the speeds they do at the IOM I'll never know.
Steve
You just described most of the back roads in California. Lots and lots of badly maintained roads. Make for some fun riding.
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I know I've seen this issue brought up in other threads, but I'm at a loss.
I have the "hang at 4k" problem. I understand this is because the mix is too lean? Yesterday I went out and checked the pilot jets and they are screwed in all the way to a gentle seat and it still hangs. I have checked the boots and as far as I can tell there is no air leak.
Do I need to change pilot jets? Re-clean?
Turning the mixture screws in makes it lean, to richen the mixture screw them out. Start at 1 1/2 turns and turn them out slowly until you get the highest idle speed (turn it back down to 1200 RPM as you work on it. Remember to go back and forth between them and they may not end up the same number of turns out when you get done. Once you get this done you won't have the hang problem anymore.
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I just got a 1980 yamaha xs850 and it makes a valve trane rattle
it has 30,000 miles on it and I am unaware of the service history.
I changed the oil with the proper weight
and it still does it.
Do the valves have to be adjusted on this model? Maybe the timing chain?
it kinda sounds like a chain but it doesnt skip time or anything
fires right up on one kick. runs great besides that high pitch noise.
any help would be much appreciated
chris
If it's like the 1100 (which I hear it is) they do need to be adjusted. Also it takes a special tool and shims to adjust the valves.
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So, I sold my 83 xs 400. The guy rode it around town all day before buying it. After he gives me the money, he rides it home and a few miles down the road, the bike dies. He flooded it and couldn't get it started. He cranked on the starter for a long time until the battery died. I showed up with a new battery, cleaned the plugs off, PUT SOME GAS IN IT, and started it. Now my stater is toast. It will not crank at full speed. I took it apart and found some windings "welded together" inside. After I got the bike started the first time, I would ride for a few minutes then the bike would just die while riding. Would this starter be a "dead short" now, and cause the bike to die? I'm assuming it's not letting the charging system keep the voltage up. I have spark, but now I can't even get a full crank with a new battery. I had never had to crank on the starter like this guy did. This is a new symptom. I gave the guy his money back after I started the bike and it sounded cool, as far as a knock or anything. He will buy it again after I get it running again. I'm putting a new starter on in a couple of days. Any thoughts?
Unless something is VERY wrong with the wiring the starter doesn't draw any current except when actually cranking the engine.
Removing Front Wheel
in Classics
Posted
I haven't found a need to use a hammer on mine but you do need to remove the wheel to service the front drum brake any further than adjusting the free play.