[1974 DT360 Clutch pushrod]

Hi. Finally figured out my problem. It is all about the spacing. The previous owner of this bike replaced the clutch with a new clutch but they were not the correct plates. I must have re-assembled it 20 times and nothing changed. The rod was not stuck. I was completely lost and about to buy a different engine. Then I checked the old clutch plates which the owner had provided with the bike. The metal plates were identical but the new fiber plates were slightly thicker. I removed one fiber plate put everything back together, re-adjusted and went riding. Hope this helps you. Bill

I just realized your DT was a "75 - I didn't notice before. The clutch on the 1974 DT's didn't have the ball between the pushrods. Earlier and later years all seem to have the ball. Your long rod is a little different than the 74's. Other than the rod shape and the ball, they seem to be identical. Let me know how it works out if you can get the old shaft out. I didn't have a chance to open mine today to measure my rod length.

If you need to look at diagrams try this link,:http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-dt250b-19751976_model8548/partslist/

Alot of the other parts lists don't have alot of the DT fiche for some reason.

[1974 DT360 Clutch pushrod]

Friday night. 10:00 PM. I think I know the problem with mine although its not pretty. Removed the clutch basket down to just the shaft at the clutch side of the cases. With the bearing and external rod removed i attempted to remove the long internal rod with a magnet. When I did it moved the entire shaft with the rod. First time I had noticed this. I think the internal push rod is stuck to the clutch shaft. Hope not do not want to split the cases as this engine runs pretty good.

[1974 DT360 Clutch pushrod]

I am having the exact same problem on a 75 DT250. I have taken it apart to the clutch plates to expose the push rod end. I removed the bearing and checked the internal rod. Everything looked good so I re-assembled it. Still wont engage. I removed the actuator from the bottom of the engine and cleaned everything. It appears to be beveled at the contact point and is adjusted by rotating a cam type threaded adjuster. I adjusted it all the way down for maximum contact. Still wont engage. Tomorrow I plan to change the cable in case someone before me put too long a cable on it. If that doesn't work I guess I will need to split the cases and see if the internal rod is damaged. I think the 250's and 360's work in the same manner. If you succeed will you post the outcome? I will do the same. Thank you Bill

[1974 DT 360 Runs then dies]

I have done some more research. The dt 360 will produce exactly three sparks and then quit firing until I have waited 24 a couple hours. It will then produce exactly three more sparks before quiting. I have exchanged stators coils and cdi units. All with the same results. The carbs have been cleaned and the plugs have been changed.

quote name='yoda' date='Aug 29 2007, 03:51 AM' post='44383']

Sounds more like a fueling problem.

They are starting on a rich mixture and when the amount of fuel reduces for normal running they are cutting out.

Service the carbs and check the fuel filters for blockage.