DanielA
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Posts posted by DanielA
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Yes, it's the separate passage in the float bowls that supply fuel to the choke. Only two are good. That's why rev comes back down after I put the choke on.
I'll do a compression test later after the bike warms up.
So far, everything seems just fine and it starts easily with the choke on even when it's at 2 deg C.
Do you know if the compression at 156 psi specified by the factory measured in cold or hot engine?
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Just got everything put together and checked. It now starts with a snap of a finger.
Thank you, Drewpy. Thanks, everyone.
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BTW, I did the compression test when the engine is cold so I guess it gets better when it warms up.
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Everything works out fine today. It's about 10 deg C today.
I did check the compression when cold. All of them are at 125 psi. After putting a little more than a teaspoon of motor oil in it shoots up to 160 psi. I guess the rings are what I am looking at next.
Choke seems to be fine as well. I did take out the carbs and check the passages. I called the guy who did the ultrasonic cleaning for me last night and he said he didnt put the float boat in when doing it. I guess this is what makes the choke unstable, so I redo the float boats.
Thanks for all your help. I guess I won't be working on the rings if the bike can start with the choke on at 10 deg C. I'm just happy with it now.
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Just notice that when I put the choke on revs up to 3500 rpm then slowly coming back down to idle. This doesnt seem normal as it's suppose to stay up. I suspect it's the compression.
Any comments?
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I did checked and adjusted to factory height before.
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Once again I apologize for my typo, Drewpy.
Here is the update. I took out the carb and went through all the little holes around the butterfly again with a very thin wire, took out the jets again and pressure aired all jets and fuel channels again, shim the valve to the right specs, checked the sparks and sparks looks fine. The bike turns but still won't start. Since I don't have my air filter on, I tried covering the intake with my hand while turning the engine and there is actually gasoline coming back on to my hand so I don't think getting gas into the engine through the carb is a problem.
What other possibility could there be. If I can still start it with starter fluid.
It is about 2 degree C now. I tried putting the choke on and it is still not working. Will a cold temperature affects this much? I know gasoline needs to vaporize and it doesn't work as well in the winter but will it simply because of the cold temperature, or is this bike just not build for temperature this low. It was doing much better last week when it's at 10 deg C.
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7 hours ago, drewpy said:
I think you would need to contact Hindle themselves. I have an aftermarket one on mine and dyno'd it. The fuel was too rich so had the drop the needle. I did go up 1 jet size for the K&N filter though
Thank you, creepy.
Appreciate for your input.
Just now, DanielA said:Thank you, creepy.
Appreciate for your input.
Sorry for my typo. Drewpy
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I did spray starter fluid around the carb to check for leaks begore and it seems fine. Carb was took apart and forensically cleaned with carb cleaner and in ultrasonic for hours. Then pressure aired all channels and slots to make sure they are clear. The fact that the bike idles stable with good throttle response, I don't think there is any problem with the channels nor gas going in from the pilot or main jets. Choke plunger also cleaned with pressure air to make sure they are not clotted. Putting the choke on revs up the idle so I don't think the choke is the issue here.
As mentioned before gas tank was fully cleaned, I also coated it with some tank coating. Cleaned with fresh gasoline 3 times before I put it bsck onto the bike. This bike does not have a gas filter and I added on the fuel line after the petcock. BTW I changed all the gaskets on the petcock as it was leaking fuel and fixed the variable resistor in the fuel gauge sending unit.
I'll work on the valve shims in the coming week and see what happens.
Still one question I have that left unanswered by anyone. It is the air fuel mixture with the after market Hindle exhaust I have on. Do i need to richen the fuel to compensate for the bigger exhaust installed? Anybody.
Thanks to everyone here.
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Thanks for your input.
I meant 0.11mm when I types 1.1.
I did clean the whole carb with carb cleaner, checked all jets holes with lights coming through, pressure air to check all channels, checked all diaphragms and needles, replaced float needles and measured the floats heights.
The fact that all valve clearance are off by nearly 0.05 to 0.1mm, will that affect cold starting this much? This is one that I suspect. Another problem I suspect is the butterfly valves on carb that may not be closed tight enough that is letter extra air in.
Any comments?
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I have an 86 FZ600 that had been sitting in my garage for 25 years. I fully cleaned the carbs and jets, washed the tank, replaced all oils and got it started. It's still very hard to start without using starting fluid and there is afterfire from time to time when engine is still cold. I'd adjusted the air fuel mixture to a little to the rich side and afterfire stopped when engine warms up. Everything seems fine except that it still doesn't start without using starter fluid when cold. I'm thinking it's the valve clearance that needs to be shim. Does anybody know the factory specs of the valve clearance. I know the FJ600 specs is intake 1.1 to 1.5 and exhaust 2.1 to 2.5, just not sure if it's the same for the 86 FZ600. I just checked them today and they are at 0.2 to 0.8 on the intake side, 1.2 to 1.6 on the exhaust side.
I also changed to Hindle exhaust when I bought it 30 years ago. Just wonder if it needs to be tuned even richer to compensate for the straight exhaust.
What is the factory specs for idle rpm. It's at around 1200 now.
It's with IC ignition. Do I need to do timing on this bike, if so, how?
Thanks to all in advance.
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Thanks, will do.
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I have an 86 FZ600 that had been sitting in my garage for 25 years. I fully cleaned the carbs and jets, cleaned the tank, replaced all oils and got it started. It's still very hard to start without using starting fluid and there is afterfire from time to time when engine is still cold. I'd adjusted the air fuel mixture to a little to the rich side and afterfire stopped when engine warms up. Everything seems fine except that it still doesn't start without using starter fluid when cold. I'm thinking it's the valve clearance that needs to be shim. Does anybody know the factory specs of the valve clearance. I know the FJ600 specs is intake 1.1 to 1.5 and exhaust 2.1 to 2.5, just not sure if it's the same for the 86 FZ600.
I also changed to Hindle exhaust when I bought it. Just wonder if it needs to be tuned even richer to compensate for the straight exhaust.
Valve shim clearance FZ600
in Yamaha Workshop
Posted
I did the compression at hot and they are all at 150+.
They were all at only 120+ at cold when factory standard is 156. I'm all confused. I guess there is nothing to worry about if the compression are all at 150+ when hot, right?