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bernek

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Posts posted by bernek

  1. I hope to have it running in the next two weeks and to bring it home so I can start tinkering and working more time on it :)

    The forks on XT600 3TB have seals that protect them from dust/dirt ? I ask this because I want to get rid of the existing rubber covers. Should I buy new ones or I should be ok if I wipe clean and oil the seals from time to time ?!

    I was looking at a sealmate scoop thingy and I will make one myself to clean the seals from the forks. I will be riding offroad mostly but I won't be going trough mud and crap just forest roads and some green grass mostly. Please advice regarding my idea to leave the front forks "naked".

    Thanks guys ! Will continue to upload photos when I have some :)

  2. I heard you guys like pictures please take a look at my work:

    Exhaust manifold: (did try to make it look better was treated with anti-rust)

    IMG_1054.jpgIMG_1061.jpgIMG_1063.jpg

    Silencer: (same as the exhaust manifold)

    IMG_0962.jpgIMG_0964.jpgIMG_0989.jpgIMG_0990.jpgIMG_0993.jpg

    Handlebar: (bough some second hands ones and painted them - I've sanded them down to the bare metal)

    IMG_1024.jpgIMG_1026.jpgIMG_20170420_135759065.jpgIMG_20170420_135816393.jpg

    Engine: (no bolt was torqued down ... and the piston slap is crazy will get a wiseco and a rebore + all the gaskets/bearings/o-rings)

    I've bought the one-way bearing and I hope it will last !

    IMG_1039.jpgIMG_1041.jpg

    Seat: (this wasn't made by me but it was a nice restore for 10 euros).

    IMG_0956.jpgIMG_0959.jpgIMG_0682.jpgIMG_0711.jpg

    I hope you enjoy looking at old vs new (restored) pictures !

    I plan on a full repaint of plastics and this summer will get the chassis painted also. I've already bought new tires (http://heidenautires.com/moto-cross-tires/k74/) and lots of other small stuff. 

    The bike main purpose will be to serve my off-road rides and if it proves worthy on asphalt I will have it registered. I won't be driving on motorways only on old rarely used roads in the mountains either way.

    I've seen these bikes are capable of 140-150 km/h on good days.

    A question regarding the wiseco piston:

    - the compression is rated 10.7:1 and the OEM one is 8.5:1 ... I'm not looking for a power increase (which comes with more heat) so I hope I won't have any problems with the wiseco piston.

     

  3. I know this has been asked a lot of times but here I am asking you guys:

    I'm going to change the piston and rings (wiseco/prox) and get a rebore and hone done to the cylinder. 

    What should be the best break in procedure for my case ? I only drive muddy roads and a bit of asphalt but can't venture too far away from home so I will be mainly on dirt roads.

    Please give me some tips regarding this and since I won't be able to drive a lot of km can I count the running time of the engine ? (for example 10 hours of driving around in 1-2-3 gear not lugging the engine and avoiding constant rpms).

    Thank you very much :)

     

  4. Bought the bearing *new* from ebay... Taiwan Bearing - I hope it will last for a while (at least 6mo maybe 1yr)...

    The carbs are leaking and I think I can fix them without a carb repair kit but we'll have to see about that !

    It's been close to 2 months and I haven't seen the bike running ... I'm not loosing hope yet :)

     

    • Like 1
  5. On 2/22/2017 at 11:16 PM, Airhead said:

    this is interesting, when I look at this page I see the part# 3tb1559400 is listed for my own bike my own bike TT600RE, but when I look at the link for starter for my bike...it lists the other much cheaper bearing 3tb1559001...it begs the question why?. If I was you i'd ring them or email to see if they are the same part?

     

    https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/view/3TB-15594-00

     

    https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4184136/tt600re-5ch5-2004-050-a/starter-clutch

     

     

    I'm confused by it now...just email them and see if they have what you want at a better price

    you can see here that 3tb 15594 00 is not what you posted a link to originally but 3tb 15590 01 is??

    https://www.bike-parts-yam.com/yamaha-pieces-catalogue-10796-13.html

     

    I really appreciate your help man :) I'm a bit lost with all these serial numbers for parts that match different models ...

    I didn't sell my other bike and money is an issue for me right now. I hope there will be better times soon ! I just want to make the XT functional and see what is capable of :D

  6. 5 minutes ago, Airhead said:

    two codes with the same letters and numbers, they are both the same thing and they are used in a great number of models as you will see if you 'view linked bikes'

    Thank you ! I've send a quotation for shipping (I used the 1st option but since they are the same it doesn't matter now).

    I just need a confirmation from the service shop that its the bearing 100% and I'm going to buy it. I wait in case I need some other "hard to find" parts so I can order from the same store. Saved it to my bookmarks since it has great prices. I hope the shipping is reasonable :)

    You made me day ! Thanks !

    • Like 1
  7. Spent a lot of time looking for a bearing (used) couldn't find any ... All the vehicles that are sold for parts have this bearing missing (sold). 

    The bearing new is around 200 EUR and I have quite of others things to fix also. Will try a conversion to a kick-start (with used parts) and hope it will be fine ! 

    We still need to find what caused the failure to this bearing. No words yet from the service shop yet where I've "abandoned" the bike. I hope next week to receive some information.

    It's quite annoying not to be able to drive it at least once to see the difference from a 125 cc 2 stroke :D I hope the wait will be worth it :P

    Do you guys think I should try to find a decompressor cable to be able to use that along with the kick-start ? I'm 1.7m 80kg and I hope I will be able to kick it ...

  8. 4 hours ago, Cynic said:

    Erm? Yeah.. sooner fit a kickstart myself than that piece of 'quality' chineese engineering.

    Shot answer, you need to get it off and see whats up.

    After some looking around, it shares some parts with the hondas wierdly. Its also much in demand. I have seen mention of it being the same part in the 660 raptor. Unconfirmed though.

    Can, IF the parts are in good general condition and its the type with the external spring be fixed with a replacement spring. From a comparable sized seal.

    Otherwise its the kicker.  

    I was honestly awaiting this answer :) but I feel a little better that I've asked !

    Either I find it second hand but it good condition or the bike will go kickstart :D

  9. Is the one way bearing from the e-start prone to failure on these models ? or I'm just unlucky with this mine. Any chances I can find an equivalent in car parts store ? or it has to be Yamaha made and I need to wait close to a month to get it ?

    I've seen chinese clones that are really cheap but I wouldn't use it since it may fail sooner ... I've seen some on ebay (original ones) that are even more expensive that original parts (or maybe the shipping and handling pushes the price higher). 

    If this bearing is just a isolated failure I could buy another engine for that money and have it for even more spare parts. 

    Here is a link with the chinese one:

    https://www.amazon.com/AHL-Starter-Clutch-Bearing-1990-2002/dp/B017R5IA8O

     

  10. 1 hour ago, Airhead said:

    I know your tank is steel, I was just pointing out this filter because the carbs are similar if not the same...there may still be crud and rust on yours?

    It has some spots but not sure where is it inside or outside. Will have to check when I get the bike back !

    I could mount an additional inline filter between fuel tank and carburetor just to be sure ? I don't think I will be restricting fuel flow.

    1 hour ago, hug said:

    Pretty sure that my old xt had the same filter set up (hidden away in the float valve?) as your TT airhead. A magnetic blackspot for any crud in the tank....

    What is crud exactly ? Are you referring to rust or to some debris ?

  11. 26 minutes ago, hug said:

    For oil i use 10/40 semi synthetic motorcycle oil, If your 5th gear works why worry about 5th gear problems? Leave your plug standard. As for cleaning the carb you are better off just taking it off and cleaning it. It may be a good idea to look at the mikuni carburetor manual pdf online. It doesn't focus on your particular carb but it should give you an understanding of how a carb works.

    If you intend to do your own repairs and restauration the best money that you will spend is to buy a haynes manual for your bike. Haynes manuals are sometimes less detailed than the official yamaha workshop manuals but they are designed for the home mechanic, are well illustrated and will have all of the information that you need in regard to your bikes specifications.

    If you want to buy tank sealer , i would buy it in europe. The postage costs from the states can be quite high and it depends on what you are buying and it's value but there maybe a possibility that you will be stung for VAT and import duty .

     

    I will do the same with a good brand 10w40 oil then ! I don't know if the 5th gear works since I haven't ridden the bike at all yet. The carbs will be cleaned at the service shop I'm pretty sure but I worked on a few Dellortho's and Polini's for 2T engines. So jetting a carburetor is not a big issue for me :)

    I will look for Haynes manual since I only have the yamaha workshop manual for my bike and its very big and with no illustrations (that can be really helpful !).

    I will look for a sealer in Europe of course maybe in a country close to mine ! 

    Since you are from France can share you share some links with some good stores for new parts in EU ? (you can PM the links if you like).

    Thanks !

    14 minutes ago, Airhead said:

    I bet there is a little gauze filter element inside the carb, there is on my TT600 which has a similar carb dual carb fitted? Its on the float valve seat, heres how I found mine with collection of fibres covering it, my bike has a fibre petrol tank not a steel one

     

    102_2692_zps5d2174d0.jpg

    I have a metal fuel tank but on my Aprilia RX I have a fibre petrol tank but didn't experience anything like this (its from 1998).

    Will definately take my time and clean everything I can when I get the bike. Time is passing so slowly for me and who said "time is relative" was 100% correct !

  12. Do you guys can recommend me a good aftermarket exhaust for this bike ? I don't have the stock silencer and I don't want to buy a stock one (used) since they aren't in good condition. I need a cheap and good one that can pass technical inspection for road worthy.

    Regarding more pics I promise to upload more when I will be able to get some. The bike will be at the service shop for 1-2 weeks and it's already killing me. I never ridden it :)

    I saw it running then the bearing cracked and we never started it anymore ... brought it to my home city and straight to a mechanic.

    I have a few questions if you want to help and respond please do:

    1. should I use any fuel additives ? (to clean carbs / deposits and so on) - I will run premium fuel 98 octane

    2. where can I find a detailed adjustment of the carburetors ?

    3. the fuel tank might have some rust inside/outside ... is this a viable solution: http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/epoxygas.htm

    4. what are the recommended plug heat rating for not a spirited driver ? (I will start slow with it since its quite heavy for me and I'm only used to way lighter 2 strokes)

    5. I've read some myths about the 5th gear problems ?

    6. what is a modern recommended oil for this engine ?

    Thank you !

  13. Hi guys !

    I've introduced myself and my bike in the new members zone and I think this is the right place to continue the discussion regarding the restoration that I'm planning to do on my bike.

    It's an XT 600E 3TB from 1994 with electric start. The bike is at a service shop for first maintenance and repairs since I got it but I plan on doing future maintenance and almost all repairs at home in the future. (I didn't want to mess up something with the brakes for example and have a small accident because of that and I preferred someone with deeper knowledge about four stroke engines to have a look at it first).

    There are a few important things to fix and replace including:

    - uni-sens bearing (will be replaced I can't start the bike at the moment)

    - carburetors are leaking (just found out today) I think its the pontou needle not closing (will be fixed or I will have to fix it myself).

    - there might be a timing issue (some misfires at low to mid rpm) or an overly rich condition that I suspect is because of a too high level of fuel in the carburetors. Will have to adjust/fix.

    There are a lot of smaller parts that need replacement also but I don't think its important to enumerate them here. (most are cosmetic parts).

    Regarding this uni-sens bearing I'm not sure what to do ... buy a new one or get a second hand replacement. It is very expensive (for me) and it will take a big chunk out of my budget. I have some other things to change also including tires that wont be cheap. The bearing only arrives in 3-4 weeks and the price is 160 eur; a second hand one would cost me a merely 50 eur and is available in 2-3 days.

    Like I've stated in my first thread I want to make it work as it should first then move on to cosmetic part.

     

     

    • Like 2
  14. 7 hours ago, hug said:

    You will need to find a secondhand clutch cover, with the hole for the kickstart shaft, a kickstart lever and a kickstart shaft with all of the bits (pinion, spring and shims etc).  This is providing that the crankcases are the same as the kickstart models which would mean that there is a hole for the kickstart shaft to slot in next to the large clutch pinion. If it was me i wouldn't bother. Too much messing around when you clearly have other jobs to prioritise. If you have a decent electric start it will start ok unless you drop it on the tracks then flood it and then run the battery flat trying to start a flooded engine or something like that.

     

    All of the work is doable by you on this bike as long you read the manual take your time. There's loads of information out there in internet land. You will probably make mistakes but this is how we learn....

     

    I won't bother with the kick-start like you said ... its not a priority for me right now :) I need to have the bike working and first restoration point should be mechanical not cosmetics. After that I can start cosmetic fixes and improvements.

    I didn't think about the flooding and not being able to start it ... this will be quite problematic for me because I will fall and I will do it several times until I get used to the bike on off road technical tracks ! But if I manage to push it to a slope and try starting it that way I won't discharge the battery and eventually it will start !

    I wish had enough money to buy a 100% working bike and not wait for it to be fixed because the weather is getting better and better and sun shines longer in the afternoon and I miss riding ... it will be a blast from a 85cc two stroke bike in almost all situations except lifting it :D

    I think in 2nd or 3rd I can start it going down a hill with no problems at all ... time will tell for sure !

    Like you said I will have to work on it and fix all the future issues because I can't afford have it serviced every time. 

    • Like 2
  15. 1 hour ago, hug said:

    Do not lose heart. I have had the thread go on my xt 600 in this particular place . As cynic stated , if it doesnt leak oil, you should be ok. And if there is any thread left ,even better. The two bolts in this picture are not the main ones holding the cylinder head and cylinder in place and if there is no leakage the bike will be ok to run. If you are going to split the engine (and the thread is broken) then buy a helicoil kit. I believe that these bolts are a 6mm thread and a 6mm helicoil kit is a wise investment. 6mm threads on japanese bikes are very common and fragile. Especially if a bolt has been over tightened. With older bikes there is a good chance that you will need to do more helicoils and a kit will pay for itself after a couple of repairs.

    As for compression i would be happy with anything over 120psi/8 bar and wold probably be ok with over 100psi or 6-7 bar.

    And yes they can be buggers to start. Your model i think does not come with a kick, Just the blanked of casing where the kick used to be (i think). I have an 1984 model with just the kick and decompression lever. Full choke, no throttle push it just after tdc (the point of highest compression) and she starts. Any whiff  of throttle for the first 30 seconds and she will die. With your bike i would spin her over with the decompression lever pulled (again full choke, no throttle) and once the engine is spinning nicely let the decompression lever out  and she should come to life.

    Good luck. Your bike actually looks in quite good condition compared to mine.

    Thank you very much for your reply and kind words !

    I believed those bolts (1 there and 1 missing) are holding the cylinder head but after you've told me that they aren't the main ones I'm a little relived. I have a lot to learn about these engines and 4 strokers in general. I only used to ride two stroke small bikes and this is my first big one. 

    Regarding the helicoil kit I will talk to the mechanic that is working on it this time and maybe we find a fix for it !

    The bike needs a lot of work and I'm ready for it to come home and start slowly :)

    I will get a compression gauge myself from an autoparts store and test as soon as its back home. I also want to learn (with your guys help and the service manual that I have) to be able to fix most of the problems at home since I don't have a lot of cash to spend. I just want someone more qualified to bring in to the floating line this time. Next it will be between me and her !

    Regarding my model like you said it has just a blank spot where the kickstart should be its 600E and its only electric start. My plan is to use it 80% off-road or on mixed roads and 20% on asphalt (maybe less). Question here: are the internals there ? if I want to conver it to kickstart.

    Not sure how reliable the Electric start will be for me (with no additional kickstart) but I guess these bikes (bigger 4T models) are harder to stall in difficult terrain/technical tracks compared to a small two stroke with no grunt down low at all. 

    My plans for it are to lug it around green hills in my vicinity and small Sunday trips (50-100 km long). I hope it will do the job just fine !

  16. 4 minutes ago, Cynic said:

    Have you checked to see if the thread is still there, its not leaking oil which is good. May be no oil galleries and such in there so, if there are still threads whack a bolt in and ride.

    Even if it needs a helicoil its not a disaster, as i said the bonus is no oil leaking.

    It still breaks my heart ! I can't check at the moment only on Monday since the bike is not at my house (it is at a service shop). Will definitely go there on Monday and discuss with them this issue. I was looking at this video: 

     

    Which gave me a little hope :) (I now the rebuild in the video is quite pointless since all the engine is cracked ... if you look closely ... and will never be 100% fixed)

    Will report back with my findings on Monday regarding this problem.

    Thanks Cynic for your support !

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