whitley89
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Posts posted by whitley89
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I thought I was on the wrong setting but I turned the dial to Volts and on the setting 20 , it was reading 2.78 or something until I noticed the number 1 flickering next to it and when I pushed the dial inwards the number 1 would show giving a new reading of 12.78....
Must be a faulty connection haha
Still haven't had a chance to clean connections etc work / weather getting in the way !!!
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Right will do that ASAP , the wiring loom is a complete mess Il take a pic so you know what I'm dealing with, when you say battery to solenoid switches... can they be pulled apart and cleaned ???
Also clean everything connecting to power valve servo or clean literally every connection??
IL clean with WD40 and a toothbrush...
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Yeah turns out it's about 12.8v , the multimeter is cheap and wasn't displaying the digits properly...,
Hmmm so it's not the battery that's the problem then, what a bigger..
Il try it with engine running tomorrow to look for 14+ volt
Not sure where to look next as I was counting on the battery being the issue , any ideas where to check next?
Checked it on a car battery and it was also reading 12.7v
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Right the multimeter arrived today! After reading another post about them I set the multimeter to the setting immediately above what I was expecting to get ( so 20v as I was expecting around 12v)
My battery is coming in at 2.93 so I assume that it is pretty much as flat as you can get?? Providing I got the multimeter settings correct???
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Cheers again lads, well this morning I woke up to an almighty crash , looked outside and the wind had blown my bike over!!!! It was up against my back door wall with the stand facing outwards and the guests were so strong it's blown over the stand side smashing with left fairing to bits and bending my gear selector inwards ! F****ng fantastic start to the day.
Had a small amount of engine oil on the floor which I hope was coming out of an overflow pipe??? There has been no more leaks since I stood her back up again and I've fired her up all seems well just no more damage has been done
Needless to say her new home is in the kitchen until this ridiculous weather has settled down, hope everyone else's day started better than mine !
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Thanks il have a look , I've got no add-ons , in fact I'm missing and rear indicator haha il be ordering that multimeter on Friday !
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Slight bit of confusion , how can a 12v batt produce 14v ????
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Rightio :-) not be out today too cold won't stop snowing here in kielder !!!
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Cheers lads , I have no rev meter on dt125x however 6-7000 revs is 3/4 throttle approx ??
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Fair point. But start at number 1. So many times electrical problems cause greif because people try and cherry pick the fixes.
So start with the battery. And the generator output, should be less than 14v or therabouts at 6k rpm
Battery issue seems to make sense, but i hope that's it lol How do you measure generator output?
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A good battery will sit at 12.6 volt roughly, as soon as ignition switched on thers voltage drop. so 12volt aint enuff , that will drop to 11.5v right away,, when recharging it will go up to 13+volts,, whitch is good,,it will settle back to the 12.5 area,
Here . this will do yeh,,, mines is model up about £18.00,
Very helpful pal Il buy it ASAP , don't have a clue about electrics or batteries but I know a little more now so thanks lad. What battery would you recommend? are these AMG Batts worth it !!
Fixed
Haha I thought the issue was in my end
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Yeah that's what I think the problem is , when I was out earlier I found slipping the clutch helped at low speeds , she seemed to have plenty of oooosh if I was able to stay in the band (mainly in a straight line haha)
However I would like to use both ends of the scale bottom end and top end so this problem needs sorted, it's frustrating as there isn't any point in doing anything else until I can check the battery,
The question is when I do check the batt should it read 12v? if it's any lower does this mean it needs recharged? Also the batt still has enough power to start the bike so it can't be that low surely??
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Sorry internet slow here didn't realise it would multi post :/
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It's just a quick fix to get me going I Will be fixing it as I already miss having bottom end power !!!
Hopefully it's a battery related issue rather than the PV motor being knakard but if the PV motor was the problem it wouldn't do the self cleaning thing surely?
I don't plan on riding it unless absolutely necessary, doing my driving lessons now so hopefully this will be my last winter on a bike
It's quite violent when you hit the sweet spot I wish it was like that all the way through the rev cycle
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Thanks for the info, hopefully charging the battery properly is the solution, never heard of AMG batteries before as it was put in by a previous owner
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Update:
Definitely something up with PV motor/battery as shes a monster with the PV pinned open, nearly had me off a few times when the power suddenly kicks in, especially in the snow haha just have poor bottom end but I can live with that at least I can maintain road worthy speeds
Took the cover off the servo motor and I noticed that there was what seemed like excessive play in the cables, however when I tightened them up and loosened them slightly as per Mr haynes instruction the motor was barely able to operate the self clean function and sounded very slow (zzzzzzt zzzzzzzzt instead of zzzt zzzzt) in other words it took longer...
Any one had any experience with motobatt AMG batteries? Because if mine has gone im not sure what replacement to get as they require a specific charger seems like a bit of a waste of money to me
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Yeah I've decided that tomorrow I'm going to pin the PV open and on payday Il a multimeter
If there are problems after I've pinned it open then I'll know it's not just that at least
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Starts fine, accelerates well up to 1/2 to 3/4 throttle then just when it should hit the power band it sort of bogs out and loses power....
Originally thought lean main jet which it could well be but a plug chop suggests it's ok plug isn't Aah white or anything,
Air air filter is oiled and held in place with lithium grease , I've checked system is air tight around filter/carb etc (don't think it's an air leak as it wouldn't idle well but it idles fine)
After watching vids of PV pulleys on YouTube I definitely no something is wrong as the pulley doesn't move at all expect for once when you fire it up and it moved into the closed position
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The little charge has done nothing so Il have to get hold of a volt meter and see what power it has....
I was going to take a vid but there's not much to see as now the pulleys just move to the closed position when you fire it up and don't move at all even when you apply throttle... :/
It's strange as it still does the cleaning thing so there nothing wrong with the PV itself so it's got to be the motor or connections/ battery etc
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Ok cheers pal , it's a motobatt AGM sealed battery so I've had it on a 10amp charge for 2 hours , I would have put it on longer but I've been reading AGM batts need specific chargers(bloody typical) so I've given it a quick boost and I'm gonna take it out for a spin see what happens, if problem persists Il make a video of the pulleys and stick it on here
I will probably buy the specific charger at some point or put a new batt in anyways just im penniless due to the aftermath of xmas!!
Will update ASAP cheers
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I haven't checked the battery, I don't have the equipment to do so I assume I'd need to some sort of testing device.
The PV moves smoothly through the self cleaning operation however I was unable to move it with my hand but the cables were connected so I presume i couldn't move it by hand anyway,
I keep referring to the head and barrel because Mr haynes is telling me that these must be removed in order to access and service the PV however I've just read a post in the workshop that gives instructions on how to remove it without touching anything :-)
Il try charging my battery for a few hours if I can get hold of a battery charger today !
It has been quite cold and wet recently and I haven't been using the bike everyday like a usually do due to snow/ice and being off from work so that could be the issue.
Il try cleaning the bullet connectors that come off the PV motor, slackening and re adjusting the cables as they may be set to tight, charging battery , and if that doesn't work Il have to strip the PV down for a clean , new o rings etc
Failing that Il just pin it open until I can afford to throw my money down the drain at a garage
Cheers bud
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Hi there sorry to resurrect a dead thread but did you solve the issue at all? I'm having a similar issue and like you say the haynes manual has little info on the workings of the YVPS system which is immensely irritating,
Cheers
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Nope. Take it out clean it and put it back with new o rings.
It will be choked with carbon which doesent come off easy. When it does it will have worn your seals.
Its not too drastic. Exhaust off. Tank off and a handfull of nuts/allen bolts to remove.
It rarely siezes though. Check your battery, the fuses and the cables/pulley boxes before starting on the pv.
Sorry Cynic didn't see your post before my last reply
Il check the pulley box tomorrow to see what's going on, I think it's not clogged as the PV moves freely .
The rusted cables are a bit concerning , I take it the pulley box is the box the PV cables labeled 1 and 2 lead into right??
Taking the tank/exhaust off is no bother however I'd need to take the cylinder head/ cylinder off also which would require new gaskets and I've just had the cylinder head gasket replaced and cylinder/head mating points skimmed due to a shoddy head gasket made by previous owner lol
Any ideas what to look out for when I open the pulley box? Cheers lad
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Update: Had the exhaust off today tried cleaning in and around PV seems quite clean,took the side cover off and the cables are correctly aligned however there was some rust visable on the cables so I applied good ole wd40.
When I started her up the cables moved to closed position and fluctuated open/closed as I revved it (as per normal) and then stopped in the closed position,no longer responding to revs??
Switched off the ignition and it stayed closed until I turned it on and it did the self cleaning thing, upon starting ignition it did the same thing where it would open and close to the revs for a few secs then stopped in closed position, not responding to revs anymore hmmmm
I'm thinking the motor could be buggered or will rusty cables have an impact?
Any help or experience here would be spot on so frustrating on having half the power ggrrr
Dt125 power valve stick
in Dual Sport, Offroad Bikes
Posted
Haha forgot my password I've been awaiting a new one which has been in the spam folder for days ...
Going to try tomorrow resetting pulley cables , cleaning connections etc sorry for delay been working none stop!!!