daddyjaynal
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Posts posted by daddyjaynal
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Glad to help, Its a common stumbling block with new riders.
And old ones......
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Have a look on the end of them, on the flat on the float bowl. Is there a 3 letter code there?
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Have you checked the valve clearances? R6's are high revving little buggers and this can be quite hard on valves. Symptoms sound the same as my FZR400 when the valves went out. Not a cheap job to replace
No idea about the oil light though. The oil lights on older Yam's were oil level, not oil pressure activated but don't know about R6s.
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Most after-market restrictor kits are just discs put in the inlet to restrict the airflow as far as I know. Factory fit ones may be different.
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Try asking the exhaust manufacturer what they recommend. I would imagine they would have some base settings. Better to go too rich than too lean though, should be able to gauge this partly by your sparkplug colour.
I bought a Leo Vince exhaust for a project I am doing and it came complete with 2 sets of rollers, clutch springs and heavy duty mounting brackets. Very good quality. It's my first attempt at a 2 stroke so making things up as I go at the moment.
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what is a good oil to use and synthetic/semi-synthetic?
where is a good place to get spares, second hand and new?
rear brake is shite, plus when i press the rear brake the brake light comes on yet when i press the front i get no brake light. anyone had his problem?
clutch lever is stiff as a bastard, ive WD40'ed the lever but no difference. is it worth replacing the cable?
I'll pick a few I'll try to help with....
Oil? I always use a semi synth in my bikes, change it regularly and don't get any problems. I use well known brands and ALWAYS bike specific oil not car. Opinions do vary and I suppose a lot of it is down to personal choice and how much you want to spend. I have a friend who swears by ASDA own brand 20/50 car oil in his bike, but then he also uses instant metal to replace bearings and has made brake pads out of wood from an old wardrobe. He crashes a lot.
Spares? Ebay and forums like this one are your best bet. Worth looking at the clearance sections of Places like M&P, Busters, Demon Tweeks etc as odd things do pop up at bargain prices. Wemoto as mentioned, very good also.
Rear brake on my 400 has never been brilliant even with fresh fluid, pads and a caliper clean. Wouldn't describe it as "shite" though. Pads are cheap enough, a fluid change takes less than an hour and as the man said, your brakes are your life. The front brake has 2 wires, brown and a green/yellow, connected just under the master cylinder. Have a check of the connections as they can get corroded or snap. Anything after that get a little more difficult.
With the clutch cable, as well as lubing it as Mattkett said, check the routing of the cable and make sure there are no sharp kinks in it. Had this problem with my 400/600 and re-routing helped a lot.
Phew, all this brain usage during daylight hours is doing me no good. Time for more coffee............
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If they are LED's there are a couple of ways around it rather than change the flasher unit. It's the difference in resistance that effects the unit so you could wire a resistor in line with each indicator or what has worked for me is to wire a small bulb in under the rear body work in line with the indicators.
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I use BT-45's on mine, seem to suit it pretty well. Never had a problem with grip in the wet or dry even when...... pushing things a little.
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Thanks guys, appreciate the help. Full power FZR's seem to be pretty rare here, all seem to be restricted power and speed. Speedometer only goes up to 180kph! My 400's will beat that.
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The brakes do fit on without brackets. With regard to the exhaust, the FZR750 engine is the same as the FZ750 which are far more common so may be easier to find one for an FZ.
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I detect a subtle hint of Burberry about this angry young man......
Anyone else get the impression he's only playing about on bike forums till he can save up for an oversized whaletail spoiler for his Vauxhall Corsa 1.1LX?
Just a thought.
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1WG is the engine prefix for the older type fzr400. The later model has engine mounts on the barrel casting. This might help with model identification.
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What's the first few letters of your engine number mate? Should be able to identify model from this.
3HE was the early model 600, 4JH was the later model (called yzf600 in he USA).
Recommended plug for a '90 fzr600 is NGK/CR9E.
Hope this helps.
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Have you got access to a voltage meter? If so put it across the terminals while the bike is running, should read about 14v-14.5v with bike running at 3,000rpm. Any lower than 14v and you probably have reg/rectifier fault as Martin says.
to start the bike I have to set the idle high like 3500 - 4000 range.Is this by using the choke?
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Hi, wondering if anyone knows or could point me in the right direction to trace the origin of an engine I have bought. It's an FZR750 engine bought to replace a restricted japanese import 1FM. The engine code for the new engine is 2TT and I'm having trouble trying to trace this type. Don't want to find out specific bike history or previous owners etc just the country of origin of the 2TT engine. Any help would be gratefully appreciated.
Jay
re-bores
in Yamaha Workshop
Posted
That would explain the Beirut comment then!! I live a bit further up the hill.
Steve at Piston broke is good but is always really busy. Almost seems like he puts prices up when he's too busy to put people off.