Migthy Mule
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Posts posted by Migthy Mule
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I posted some photos of the exhaust in a previous post Cynic replied :
' looks like a gianelli pipe (common replacement for rotten stock pipe) with the generic tailpipe'
no holes in the airbox other than the butchery that the previous owner used to attach the carb inlet rubber
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It had a Minuni carb fitted 2H501
Needle Jet 2490 0-0
Main jet 160
Pilot Jet 25
on advice I bought an overhaul kit, I think from yambits correct to the year
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great, Ill try that tomorrow, dont think my neighbours will appreciate me starting it up now
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Thinking back it had oversized jetting when overhauled the carb, this I suppose may have been to compensate for an air leak, thanks for posting me that yoke by the way, your a life saver.
Filter looks clean to me but not sure if its correct, only seems held in place by the cover???
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Thanks, guess I should check the seal round the airbox then, and perhaps look at getting a new filter
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Best get the gasket ring in place first...pretty crittical on 2 strokes so we'll see how it is after that's fixed.
Have you done any work on the engine...like replace the crank seals?
You say you are premixing now, so have you capped off the spigot on the carb that was originially an oil feed?
Hi the engine had a full rebuild bottom to top but got someone with better skills than me to do it,
bike was run on pre mix by previous owner, seems like a good seal if not very tidy
sorry for my ignorance, I have always avoided 2 strokes cause im not a mechanic so trial an error seems to get me through with a 4 stroke engine, they just run badly if wrong but 2 strokes seem so fussy im sure they work by petrol oil and a little mystical magic
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out is on, at least it won't seize.
yeah, I suppose too much is better than too little,
fairly sure the bike is standard ish (actually about three bikes made in to one) but 175 head, exhaust, end can and carb should be correct, the air filter is in place and clean although the rubber manafold from airbox to carb is a bit of a frankenstein with self tappers and silicone - should be fairly air tight- is it possible the timeing could be out? not sure how to alter this
I guess that the oil suggests too much fuel, It is a new plug and I had the generator re wound so spark should be good
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auto lube disconnected and pluged
I am right in thinking that choke on - is with it pulled out?, seems to be working in reverse
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hello all back again. Airhead has kindly posted me what I hope will sort out the steering bearing issue, so while I've been unable to put the front back together I took the opportunity to put the engine back in, but with mixed success, it fired up after a couple of kicks and I wound the throttle stop until it ticked over nicely but when I pushed the choke in the revs increased then wandered before the engine died, I whipped the plug out and there was a fair amount of oil on it.
I have fitted a carb overhaul kit for the right year so Im going to check ive put it all together correctly.
Still haven't sorted the auto lube so Im pre mixing at 35 : 1 - is this right ?
I seem to be missing the exhaust gasket (one on way) could this cause this, fair bit of oil escaping from there to.
In my experience the revs should drop when the choke is off, not sure how these carbs work, does it shut off some of the air flow or allow some extra fuel through, Thanks
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I have a spare bottom yokeset which some bright spark has sawn off the horn mounts! If you send me your yoke I will fit the stem from mine into yours FOC (I have a hydraulic press at work)
That would be great sounds like its the same, pics below. To save you the hassle If you would be willing to send me the bottom yoke as it is ill fabricate a bracket and put the horn somewhere else, I could pay pal some money to you, this project has been going on far to long and I cant wait to get out on it
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Not sure its supposed to look like this, I suppose its possible this could cause the movement, though you would think it would be at the top ?????
been perusing ebay seems the current bottom yoke assembly is the same as a 1981 model( it has the casting to take the horn and fitting on it for the mud guard) could it be that its the wrong one and this is causing the movement.
To answer my earlier question it seems the twin shock versions had a different fitment for the mudguard so are the later ones all the same I have seen 2 types one has the casting for the horn and one type has bolt holes, thanks
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Hi all back again thanks for all your previous help, ended up getting the barrel bored out to 1mm (previous post) and got it back after about 10 weeks at the shop.
before fitting the engine back in the frame I needed to replace the steering bearings, simple job I thought - can of worms it turned out to be firstly the top of the stem is horribly worn so im wondering if I need a year specific part or were they the same for all models, mine is 1979. Will an early twin shock version fit ?
Secondly after fitting the bearings there is still loads of movement at the bottom fitting, I had to tap the top race in gently with a plastic mallet but the bottom pushed in by hand is it possible for the receiving piece in the headstock to ware? the original bearing set up needed tapping out (nice snug fit) and there didnt seem to be any play in the fitting. I have tightened it up to the point that it no longer drops from side to side under its own weight but there is still play there..... should I keep tightening im not sure if it may need over tightening to get the bearings properly seated but I dont want to damage them.
Thanks
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Thanks folks, don't mean to sound ungrateful but I dont really want to wait 3 more weeks for the piston to arrive from America and at that price it would be cheaper to bet it bored out to 1mm, ill phone ty trials tomorrow, they look promising and I was thinking of getting some progressive fork springs - looks like they may be able to help with that to, cheers to you both.
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Hi all, my engine has been at the shop for about 2 months now (really crap service) think he has had some staff issues anyhow the problem now is that it is bored out to .75 over and it appears they have now discontinued this size, I was hoping to avoid a re bore but unless anyone knows where I can find one this seems my only option to go up to 1mm oversize, I have trawled ebay and spoke to yambits so before I go down the re bore route I thought id see if any of you knowledgeable lot could help out, Thanks
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Seriously - A massive Thanks to you all
would have taken me ages and countles frustrations im sure to get all that figured out
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No I contacted Yamaha, the engine is 2A815****
and got the following reply:
Thank you for your e-mail.
The engine number you have providedrelates to a 1981 model year Yamaha DT125 which was produced early in that year.
When ordering parts we would recommendthat you quote the Model Code 4J3 along with the Engine Number.
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Thanks guys so.....
its a 1979 chassis 175 MX registered in 1980
with a 125 cc 1981 bottom end
with a 175 cc Head
with a later rectangular section swing arm fitted
I guess ordering parts could be interesting.
Is it likely that the shock was changed with the swing arm then or would it fit both styles.
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Frame number 2k40018***
So if its original 1980 with the air box on the right and oil tank on the left then the rectangular swing is correct ???
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Dont know about the headlamp, but can't spokes be tightened?
likely be cheaper than another wheel, but get it done by a profesional or you risk serious problems. As for headlight, difficult to say without seeing it but think about epoxy and some self tappers
Best bet has got to be Ebay, good luck
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Oil tank is missing, but there is space for one
V5 states first reg April 1980
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Yeah oil tank on the left. Swing arm dosent look 30 years old, in fact its in better nick than the one on my 1999 GSXR
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Hi, just wondering my Dt first reg April 1980 has a rectangular section swing arm, im sure these had a tubular section arm, If this has been changed for the more modern design will I find that other bits have been changed to make it fit, ie the shock (Mainly curious but may be helpful if I need to overhaul the shock)
cheers
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Ha that's quite funny I emailed this guy yesterday to ask if it would fit my bike, he wasn't sure and suggested i ask one of the forums. I was just about to post the link but you beat me to it. Cheers.
Because my bike didn't have one I wasn't sure even what it should look like, Thanks again
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What a friendly lot you are, thanks for the warm welcome Cynic has been helping me out all last night and today, given me some good insight and dispelled a few worries. I have spent most of today digging out the bike - took 2 runs to the tip !!! I gave it a quick wash and put the battery on charge in the hope it may still b ok. ill keep u all posted
fairly sure the bike is standard ish (actually about three bikes made in to one) but 175 head, exhaust, end can and carb should be correct, the air filter is in place and clean although the rubber manafold from airbox to carb is a bit of a frankenstein with self tappers and silicone - should be fairly air tight- 
Oily plug
in Dual Sport, Offroad Bikes
Posted
carb kit came from wemoto,
I still have the original needle and jet, quick operation to swap back and try it, Ill also try that tomorrow, cheers